I read a thread a while back and can't find it now but it was about a 22re starting up, revving to 2-3,000 rpm and then dying. I just did the timing chain on my 87 runner 22re and thats what i'm getting. I know the timing isn't perfect and most likely to blame but i dont have time to even get the timing light on it before it dies (i'm workin alone in the garage).
So whats the way to time this biatch?
Oh and im 100% positive that the distributor is *somewhat* close to the correct position. i installed it by the service manuals instructions.
thanks
charlie

 

With timing, there's no such thing as..."somewhat" close, or "timing isn't perfect." There are fairly close tolerances which it has to fall in. I would pull the distributor, put the motor on TDC, rotor on #1, and try again... If the timing chain is off by a tooth or two, that's going to effect it as well. If the distributor is adjustable by the hold down bolt, try just inching it a hair back, or a hair forward and see what results that gives you... best of luck.

 

my cam was a tooth off and the motor would only run at full advance, but its easy enough to pull the timing cover and check

 

is the air box and tubing connected to the intake manifold?

 

alright i'll do some more fiddling with the timing. I am positive that the chain is all lined up unless it magically jumped a tooth or something but i was extremely careful.

the airbox is all connected

This is my first time working on a 22re. I've been workin on my old Scout 345 V8 for last 6 years so i'm a newb when it comes to the toyota but i guess its not really any different.

THanks for the replies, i'll post up if i can't get it started

 

still no luck. I have taken the dist. out and realigned it with the engine and difference. I have played with adjusting the timing a little and i managed to make the engine sputter and backfire on one end of the adjustment and then also have no difference in advancing it in the other direction. I am also attempting to set the base timing and not been successful. I have a wire stuffed in T and E1 in the diagnosis terminals for lack of a better jumper but it does not make any difference whether or not its plugged in which makes me think that the jumper is faulty, its just hard to believe that if there is that much wire stuffed in there that it wouldn't be making some sort of a connection.
The engine will run if i keep it above 2,000 rpm but the moment i let off the gas it dies.
Do you think the problem lies in me trying to set the base timing and failing?
I am just a little bit frustrated by the whole thing at this point but i want to pound it out so anything helps.
Thanks
charlie

 

just double checked and took the valve cover off. with the engine at tdc the bright link and alignment mark on the cam sprocket gear are at 12 oclock. should be all good as far as the chain goes.
So the question is. If the timing chain is lined up correctly and i didn't replace any other parts on the vehicle, why would it not be capable of idling?
I've called around to friends and shops and such and no one seems to have a straight answer to this question, i'm getting lost and confused at this point.
thanks
charlie

 

do you have the jumper in t1 and te1. you can't adj timing without that jumper in

 

Yea the jumper is in T and E1

 

spark plugs in the right firing order?
before you removed the head did you set the engine to TDC. there might be a chance your 180* out. remember the crank turns 2 times to the cam 1.

 

When you had the valve cover off was the intake and exhaust valve rockers both tight?

 

If it revs up to 2-3 grand then your cam is fine. Also your spark timing must be close enough. Sounds like you fuel pump is not staying on. Pull the passenger side kick panel and pull the COR relay out so you can hold onto it. When you crank you can feel it clicking. You can also force the pump on by jumping some diagnostic terminals. FP+ and something else. Do a search to find out.

 

New Problem!
Ok so i was getting some squeeling from the engine, i thought it was the belt but i took the belts off and the bitch is still squeeling!! it must be some sort of internal squeel, so its time to pull the cover off again i suppose. What would be squeeling?? It sounds just like a belt on the front but alas it is not.
Thanks for the replies to the other issue, I'll look into the fuel pressure issue once i get the chain taken care of.

.

haha
thanks
charlie