Flywheel broke off
#1
Flywheel bolts sheared off while driving
Just got my truck running and used some hardware store bolts (said they were better than grade 8!) and somehow they all broke off at the crank...now I have little pieces of bolts stuck in the back! I don't know if I need a whole new crank shaft or not. What should I do? Thanks
Last edited by 91Toyota; Mar 27, 2009 at 02:01 PM.
#5
#7
Did you drop the clutch when it broke?
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#8
why would you use cheap bolts to mount something so important?????? the toyota bolts are specially hardened to resist torque to the side of the bolts, not just stretche from torqueing them in. they only time i use aftermarket bolts is bumpers and fenders man. Did you loose the original bolts?
#10
why would you use cheap bolts to mount something so important?????? the toyota bolts are specially hardened to resist torque to the side of the bolts, not just stretche from torqueing them in. they only time i use aftermarket bolts is bumpers and fenders man. Did you loose the original bolts?
#11
What was wrong with the original bolts?
Are you sure the new ones weren't too long?
If too long they would bottom out in the crank and there would not be enough clamping force on the flywheel causing them to sheer.
65 ft pounds right?
Are you sure the new ones weren't too long?
If too long they would bottom out in the crank and there would not be enough clamping force on the flywheel causing them to sheer.
65 ft pounds right?
#12
No one around me carries flywheel bolts in there auto parts stores so I went to a hardware store for grade 8 bolts. Then, the dealership wanted $8 a bolt.
#13
I can't get the bolts out of the back of the crank...so its either replace the crank or just get rid of the truck all together/engine swap. I'm sick and disgusted at Toyota's right now. I don't want to look at them.
#15
... i really hope you didnt put grade 8 bolts in it.. Grade 8 would necessatate a SAE bolt.. not metric.. if so maybe you some how got a sae bolt to go into metric threads and tore up the threads enough to cause them to loosen up and break. 10.9 is the metric equivilent to the sae grade 8.
#16
... i really hope you didnt put grade 8 bolts in it.. Grade 8 would necessatate a SAE bolt.. not metric.. if so maybe you some how got a sae bolt to go into metric threads and tore up the threads enough to cause them to loosen up and break. 10.9 is the metric equivilent to the sae grade 8.
#17
... i really hope you didnt put grade 8 bolts in it.. Grade 8 would necessatate a SAE bolt.. not metric.. if so maybe you some how got a sae bolt to go into metric threads and tore up the threads enough to cause them to loosen up and break. 10.9 is the metric equivilent to the sae grade 8.
I'm going to guess the bolts bottomed out precisely at the point where they were providing some clamping. I'm still surprised they sheered off like that.
Trevor, can you provide us with some pictures?
#18
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From: Grew up in S.C.V, So Cal.....now in Hampstead, NC
Well, unlike the TITANIC, you made it home. Might I make a suggestion, go to the dealer and buy the correct bolts. Some times you can't beat dealer items......and are worth the money,if for nothing else, for the piece of mind.....ya know?
#19
me too is
what was wrong with the original bolts?...
here, figure out what grade bolts you bought:
http://www.engineersedge.com/hex_bol...tification.htm
but you should be able to get them removed with an easy-out. if the head sheared off there should be little to no force on the threads (and you could probably use a center punch if you were determined to spin them out) so should come out fairly easily.
what was wrong with the original bolts?...here, figure out what grade bolts you bought:
http://www.engineersedge.com/hex_bol...tification.htm
but you should be able to get them removed with an easy-out. if the head sheared off there should be little to no force on the threads (and you could probably use a center punch if you were determined to spin them out) so should come out fairly easily.



: Sorry.
