I spaced that.
The bolts for the flexplate are shorter than the bolts for the flywheel (though not by much) so that would explain the need different bolts.

 

I would try the center punch i just had to do it twice on my trans, the metric equiv. to grade 8 is 10.9 and then 12.9 is even better. I went to the local hardware store for bumper bolts on my truck and i was looking for grade 8 and i asked if 8.8 was the same and he told me they were luckily i found out before i tried to winch or pull anyone out, now i have to go return a whole bunch of bolts. If you have a fastenal near you check them out they will have what you need, the dealer is an option to just alot more expensive.

 

I simply can't get the bolts out...I used thread locker on them and I tried drilling one out and its turning into a mess. I might just end up replacing the crank shaft and while I'm at it I will do a re-ring kit and a cam along with a timing chain while I'm at it.

 

[youtube]x7wc55oXWf8[/youtube]

 

Personally, I use ARP flywheel bolts. I don't know if you think your truck is worth 80 bucks for a set of bolts, but they won't ever break on you. ever.

I know the JZ crankshafts are actually drilled and tapped right through the flange, so if there's no bolt, you can see right into the crank case. Is the 22R crank like that too?

How close to the surface is the bolt broken? If it's close enough, you might be able to grind a small notch in the bolt, and take it out with a flathead screwdriver.

 

ive had to do the flat head screw driver thing, it works great

 

I dont' know if you're willing to try this or not. but when i worked at a shop and i had to remove a broken bolt on exhuast manifolds, we would weld some material onto the broken bolt. Being really carefull we'd add enough material to where we could get a set of vise grips on the material and slowly work out the broken studs. So thats an option. I don't know how well those bolts of yours would take weld. I dont' know if the 3.0 flywheel bolts are similar or not. But i've got a set if you want them. free fifty free.

 

Here is a pic...

 

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I used blue lock-tight. And what size drill bit?

 

That really sucks.

Maybe try drilling them out and re-tapping. If that's not plausable you could go with Vital22re's suggestion. They look like they've sheared off pretty flush, which makes things a lot worse.

Have faith though, there's always a way to fix it.

 

You have a welder? looks like you have more than enough safe area to carefully add some weld and take some vice grips to it. I would probly take a torch to the bolts to help deal with some of the lock tite. good luck man.

 

a man get a punch a set of extractor and a hammer. tap all the bolts with the punch to help break loose the locktite then drill with the size drill bit for your extractor and they should come out. its worth the try ...or x2 if you have a torch use that.

 

I don't have a torch or a welder.

Makes things much harder!

I'm going to try to extract them today...wish me the best of luck!

 

wow man.. i even bought toyota diff studs.. all there bolts have correctlocktite and are the right ones!!
worth it!!

you live you learn..
please dont hate the toyota..
im sure its a great truck

and why would you swap out a auto for a clutch on a trail rig

id love to just be able to gas and crawl...


i think people who drive toyotas are 5spd crazy...toyota also makes a good auto!

 

I definitely live and learn.

I swapped out the auto because it was blown. I guess 4lo did work though!

 

although this is on a little smaller scale, these thing work GREAT!

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...0070921x00003j









drill a hole in the stud (which shouldn't be too hard if you used cheap bolts ), use the appropriately sized extracter and tap it in with a hammer so it's got a good and solid grap ont what's left of the bolt, and then just put a small wrench on it

 

I already tried that method! lol.

I have the same exact extractor and everything. Maybe I did it wrong? I don't know.

I'll give that thing 1 more shot!

Thanks Superbleeder!

 

ah ok

well try to use the largest extractor possible without grabbing the threads in the crank; this should keep the tool from bending and twisting up.

all of my small ones are destroyed, twisted up like a candy-cane, lol. they grab too damn good for their own strength

but the larger the tool, the deeper the drill, and the fruther you make them dig into the left-over bolt (by hammering them in), the better they will grab

 

Those extractors work pretty good, I use them all the time at work. I would give it a try for sure. like it was already mentioned, you want to drill the biggest hole you can in the broken stud without cutting into the threads, and then use the biggest extractor you can. you also have to hammer the extractor in a little bit.

they also sell left-hand drill bits that you can use with a left hand drill, those have worked for me also.

I've pulled out bigger broken off bolts out of an allison HD trans with threadlock on them, so its definately do-able. at least those bolts havent been rusted in there for 16 years.