is there anyway to tell if you have a bad rod bearing besides tearing the motor down without a oil pressure gauge? ive got a ticking thats almost a knock sounds like its coming from the rear lower end of the motor.... thought it might be piston slap but it dont go away when the engine warms up. its not the valves they have been adjusted twice.

tempted to pull the oil pan but im not sure if i can get away with that without pulling the motor.

 

what kinda truck you got? should be able to drop the pan fairly easily. then you just pull the cap and have a look

 

93 4x4 22re. ive got new pistons rings and bearings im tempted to just pull the head do the HG and replace those all at once with the motor in it. ive been told it can be done but im skeptical...

 

hmm ive never done it on an ifs truck.. trouble is if you try and cant get it your gonna play hell getting sealant in there to put it back on.... do you have a cherry picker? maybe just try and lift the motor a bit in the engine bay, just enough to squeeze the oil pan through there. if not i believe you can remove some steering stuff and fit the thing out with the motor mounted.
when you say you would replace those while the head is off, you still need the oil pan off to remove the rod caps it would be easier not to pull the head

 

lol yea the oil pan was a givin. i just dont think it would be very easy to replace the pistons from the bottom guess ill take a look at it this weekend when i change the oil. might just jump into that instead.

any idea how much clearance i would need to get the oil pan out? ive got a come-a-long from a 6x6 beam that i can pull the motor up with.

 

oh pistons too lol yeah probly not
if you need to do the hg and pistons why not just get er all done

 

yeah im on the fence about that. ive got a engine available for me that i can put in the shop and have machined and then rebuild that but i just dont know how much effort i got in me lol. i want to do it the right way but im not sure if im going to keep this truck or get another one...

 

you do need alot of clearance to get the oilpan out, best way from what ive herd it dropping the diff.

 

eh thats more work than its worth it sounds. ill probably just get this block and rebuild it hopefully before the motor in it blows.

 

Looks like yall got it covered. That is one reason UOAs are important, if you have been having accelerated wear or abnormal wear the tests would of picked it up and you would now exactly what you got wearing inside.
Not bashing you but that is the reason I mention UOA when i get a chance and nobody understands why. On the bright side you do have an excuse to build up a engine.

 

ok i searched and found nothing specific on *UOAs* what the hell is it?

 

ive herd its not as bad as we think to drop the ifs stuff. im trying to find out how to get it completely off so i can clean the pan out real good

 

:well im going to get drunk and rattle kan my truck black tonight lol maybe ill get ambicious and take a good look at it lol

 

lol, lets hope not to cause more problems

 

na i wont pull anything apart tonight just look at it and maybe do some reading in between paint fume highs lol. and i did figure out what UOA means. Used Oil Analysis. yeah i know its good to do but how many people out there actually do it lol. i know thats not an excuse not to, my excuse is that its a 15yo motor and i dont care if it breaks. it gives me something to do. and besides the more i fix the more i know is right with it as i go.

call me crazy but its my dads thery. he bought a neon when they first came out for my mom. she got sick of it and got another car but it was paid for and he wouldnt sell it because he knew everything that had been done on it and knows the car inside and out. its still running strong with 280k on the original motor with a timing job done on it. and hes never done a UOA im sure.

 

Yes, you have to remove the IFS diff, unless you attach an engine hoist to the engine and lift it up an inch or so, but the latter option sounds risky.

The IFS diff is 85lbs of awkwardly-shaped metal, which took my dad (230lbs) and myself (180lbs) and a hydraulic jack to put back into position. You can't really put the diff on you chest, crawl into position and bench press it upwards like you can with the rear diff, unless you chest was like 6" think, just not enough room.

 

yeah forget that hastle. im building the motor next weekend after the block comes out of the shop. ill take pics. also gonna run some seafoam thru this weekend to try and clean as much crap out of the intake and vacuum system as i can before i put fresh motor in.