For my temp setup (while saving for gears and a doubler) I decided to run my stock gears with 32" tires. I love the traction and predictability of a spool/welded rear end, so this weekend I removed the 3rd member and got to work. I noticed right off the bat that the 4 cylinder 3rds have 2 less side (spider?) gears than my previously welded v-6 3rd. Lucky for me, my friend had just installed a quick-lock, and he had an extra set of these side gears from his open diff. So I welded the 8 contact points inside the stock 4cyl 3rd, and then threw in his old side gears and welded them also. The result? A super strong welded 4cylinder 3rd member with twice the weld contact area as a stock welded 4cylinder 3rd! I like this as opposed to adding a piece of 3/8" plate because the gears help to maximize the weld/contact points. I'm sure you can find extra side gears at any local 4x4 shop. -Eric

 

Two questions, if I may:

1) If I drove with a welded rear end on the street, can I assume I'd screw my tires up on turns?

2) Should this only be done for the rear?

 

Seems to me like that would not make much difference since you still only have the 2 pinion diff as apposed to the four pinion. The load on the welded gears is still primarily if not all on the gears with the pinion shaft in it.

 

1. yes it would increase wear.
2. Many will tell you that its not smart to weld the front. I will let someone else explain but i believe it has to do with steering issues on the trail and also driving in the snow.

 

If you could have seen the entire unit spinning before I welded it it would make more sense. I'm confident this is a very strong way to go. I guess only time will tell. Anyone else have any ideas about the (possible) added strength?

 

I dont know. You may be right but my gut says it wont be as strong as you might expect. I dont think it will break mind you but I dont think the other two added spider gears improve it much more considering the two pinion carrier. Looks good though.

 

heres a pic of a normal welded 3rd for comp!!


i also got 32s and never had an issue with it but traction traction traction!!

 

Good info, but now that I have been doing some reading I think I screwed up because I removed the carrier from the diff, and didn't check or set backlash. Oops, at least this is a temp setup. After the reinstall the carrier bearings had plenty of preload, and the driveshaft flange spun nicely, so I'm not too worried. I guess I'll just have to try it out and see...

 

i h ad a professional mechanic do mine to a 3rd i got at a junkyard lol

 

People have added steel into the carriers for more weld but isnt really neccecary! Hope you took it nice and slow when you welded it!

Tire wear will suck but its a small price for a cheap locker plus most lockers even the detroits that dissengage dont always during turns acting just as bad on tires as welded. IE my freinds small single cab doesnt have enough weight to dissangage the locker in turns always so it was pointless to spend so much for a locker when he could have Spooled or welded!

Never weld the front youll hate it everywere you go aspecialy turning! Selectible is the way to go for the front!

Welded fronts also put more stress on the entire font end and will destoy parts faster!

When welding in the carier be sure to clean it well first and anti splatter it so you dont hurt bearings and get weld splatter on the gears and pinion! Tigging the carier is the best way to go

This is done with a tig and isnt going anywere

 

yeah baby!!


just wish i could get the trail rig started so i could use it!!!
you must be really ansy with all that work youve done to your runner fill!!!

welded is the way to go for a offroad only truck for sure!!! last time i was out i did half the trail in 2wd and i wondered why my truck seemed better the last time i was out..Then i figured out i actually unlocked the hubs when i went to lock them at the beginning of the trial