Does anyone have any experience with the ARP studs (e.g. to replace as head bolts)? I'm looking at getting some, but I'm wondering how much "fun" they might make it to get the cylinder head in place with all of them sticking up. And, do they need to be retorqued after a certain break in period? Lastly, how much fun is it to get a cylinder head back OFF that has ARP studs on it? If you've pulled heads before, your probably are aware that some of the head bolt locations are notorious for getting both dried and/or oily baked coatings on them. I'm concerned that this could make removal of a head held in place with ARP's difficult.

 

First anytime you pull the heads off its a wise Idea to have them decked again and cleaned. Leak tested also if you would like and its not a bad idea to have it done.

As for the studs just besure you dont use the jam nut method to install then. I made that mistake once Use either oil or anti seize on the studs. The studs should have an allen head on the top to insert them into the block. put the new HG on and torque them down and youll be set. The studs will provide a much better and stronger clamping force and increase the life of the top end and HG's

 

1) You can't get the cylinder head in place with all of them sticking up. You have to remove the bolts, then remove the studs. The studs have allen wrench holes in them.. well, at least the newer ones do.

2) Retorque - not any more than OEM bolts. I retorque after 500 miles and then we're set.

3) Getting the cylinder head off is like getting it on.. Remove bolts, then remove studs, then pull head..

I've never had a problem removing one of the studs, in the event that the allen hole got damaged, you can still put on two nuts, torque them against each other then use the inner one to turn the stud out. This is how it used to be done before allen holes.

The only other bugger thing about them is that sometimes they require that you clearance the inside of your valve cover slightly.

 

When you install the studs, they are only in finger tight.
Use the ARP thread lube, and the final head clamping torque is greater than stock. Follow the ARP directions.

 

never had any problems,they are great

 

that's good news. I wasn't aware there were allen heads on the studs. So, the head can go on first, then the studs can be put in (finger tight)--basically just like the OEM headbolts. I had envisioned having to put the studs in first, then trying to drop the head straight down on them. This might not be difficult with the engine removed, but my block is still in the vehicle. If I had to put the studs in before the head, I could see issues with hitting the heater hoses etc.... and other stuff on the firewall (and I was hoping not to have to remove that).

And I didn't realize there was enough thread on the end of the stud to double-nut (should a stud NOT want to come out easily). ARP says not to double-nut during installation, but it will be nice to have an emergency backup plan if the allen wrench won't remove them.

Are the upper threads on the studs the same size and pitch as the lower threads (that go in the block)? Just curious, because I already have a thread tap and die for the size in the block (can't recall off the top of my head, either 12 or 14mm 1.25 pitch?).

 

I only had to remove the two rear most studs to install the head on my 22RE. I found it easier to install the head with the rest of the studs in place. Just line up the holes in the gasket and the studs hold it in place, then line up the holes in the head and slide it on. It'll hang up slightly on the studs, but goes down easily with a few taps of a rubber mallet. Screw in the back two studs and then torque down the nuts:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...l#CylinderHead

And yes, you can double nut the studs.

 

You should know that the ARP head bolts restrict oil flow into the head and valve train. I killed a cam and a set of rockers using them. To be honest, they are probably not needed for a basic 22RE unless you intent to turbocharge it with a lot of boost.

 

Nope, no turbocharging involved, though I do have a LC Engineering EFI Pro head, DOA timing set, LC cam and header, borla exhaust, and cylinders bored. It makes decent power. I am just looking for a little better reliability and reusability. The headbolts that were installed for this motor build about 15k ago and appear to be clean, but I am not keen on reusing them (ever). I don't mind paying $6 each for genuine Toyota, but I want to steer clear of the imported garbage (which I think is what's on there now) that are about $25 for all 10.

How do the ARP's restrict oil flow? I haven't seen them up close so I am not visualizing how they interfere.

 

I wish ARP made head studs for the 3.0. And, I'd love to hear how head studs restrict oil flow into the head. Do they somehow completely cover oil passages?

 

See:
http://www.4x4wire.com/forums/showfl...v=#Post1089238

 

The oil flows into the head around the one of the front head bolts. For whatever reason, toyota decided to use the bolt hole as an oil passage rather than provide a separate one. The ARP bolt shanks are larger in diameter than the OEM bolts and don't leave a lot of room for oil to get past them.

 

Well, I ordered a set of ARP's off Ebay (only $130 shipped!). We'll see how it goes. It looks like, worst case scenario, is that I can either grind down the front passenger stud on cylinder #1, or make a flat spot on it. My cylinder head is from LC Engineering, and I do not recall if it was a new casting, a stock toyota head, or what. So, I won't now how tight "tight" is until I just try it. Before putting the head back on, I will slip the old head bolt in there and see what clearance is vs. the ARP stud. I've got too much time and money into this motor to risk regular head bolts that may or may not be clamping down sufficently. Plus, I've also snapped regular head bolts before trying to get them out. Had to pull the whole block and bring it to a machine shop the last time it happened....

 

...X2

 

Okay, that explained it. Never new an oil passage was hiding in a bolt hole. Really seems like a bad decision, considering you usually don't want a lot of oil in a head bolt hole, or you might just bust that bolt off.