I hydro locked my 1993 toyota pickup in 3.5ft of water the motor stop right away i tryed roll starting it a coupel of times then i took it to my garage pulled the plugs turned it over about a half gallon of water came out then i changed the oil put it together now there is a click click.... so how do i start to see if it bent a rod or valve? any help is appreciated thanks guys

 

pull the oil pan and look up

 

well...u could try roll starting again...or put power directly to the starter solenoid(use jumper from batt.)
Or try putting a wrench to the crank, and turn over manually, if it turns over smooth a few times...u prob fine...if it binds at all......well u get the idea

 

I avoid mud and water because of this.

 

"click click" or "knock knock"? I'd be more worried if it's knocking, not so much clicking. I mean, you may have just messed up an exhaust seal from dipping it in water too fast (it can happen, I've done it before ). I imagine it speeds up with the RPMs; just curious, does the sound get softer, louder, or stay the same under load?

 

i'm gonna say if you had water in your motor like that its ed....pretty sure even a teaspoon of water in your cylinder will bend

 

The click click is your starter not turning because its seized up solid. You most definately mangled it bad trying to pull start it.....

 

you'd be surprised how much water and how fast it has to enter the motor it takes to lock up a motor, much less do it so fast it breaks things.

I think by the phrase "i took it to my garage pulled the plugs turned it over about a half gallon of water came out", the starter is turning the motor over fine .

I've hydrolocked 3 motors. My 22re is the only motor to survive it

Killed a ford v6, and a chevy v8; didn't fix em, just sold the trucks afterwards for parts. With the 22re in my PU, I just pulled the plugs right after it happened, shot the H2O out, tossed the air filter in the back of the truck, threw the plugs back in, and drove it home; never left any permenent damage, as far as I can tell; that was 10k miles ago!

 

I'm also in the hydrolocked my 22re 10k miles ago with no noticeable damage group

 

Actually, considering the combustion chamber volume is a LOT more than a teaspoon, that won't happen. What could happen if that much water entered a cylinder would be- the water would foul the plug, the air-fuel mixture would be compressed abnormally high and the head gasket would likely fail.

Now...
toy 22r/re's are some of the toughest engines out there.
I'll also bet that those of you who've sucked enough water in to kill the engine didn't actually hydro-lock it, but ingested enough water to quench the spark plugs, but not enough to fill the cylinders, and probably weren't revving the engine up all that much above idle so it died fairly quickly.

Anyways.
Depending on the situation, it's possible for the engine to survive ingesting water. But if it's a high volume of water... as in it didn't suck anything but water into the cylinder, damage is likely.

your mileage may vary

 

Science at work. "You can't compress a liquid".

 

Most liquids... hehe

 

yeah, wish that would have been my case

 

Okay... maybe I should have said "... many of you... but not all...."

 

thanks alot guys i haven't worked on it to much but did find 2 striped exsgust studs and one blew out on the back of the manofold so maybe that was the nosie i heard so im going to retap them and see if that dose the trick thanks alot
P.S. it dose start

 

I bent two rods in my 1994 3.0 while crossing water. We pulled the plugs and changed the oil. I drove it home over 100 miles away with a weird tack tack sound inside the engine.

The noise seemed to come from the middle of the engine, not the top or bottom end. Weird, there is nothing in the middle of an eingine. Well, as it turns out, I had bent two rods, 1 and 6. The noise was generated by the piston skirt hitting the crank. The rods had shortened enough to allow the pistons to come in contact with the crank!

Anyhow, I salvaged two rods and pistons from a parts (donor) motor. I put new bearings, rings and oil pump in the thing and it ran perfectly. I did have the crank checked and polished.

I drove that engine myself for 200,000 miles after the rebuild and then sold it to a friend's father. He's put about 150,000 on it since and it still runs great. The yota mechanics didn't think it would hold up with donor parts!

Good luck to you.

CT

 

Exactly what mine looked like... ouch, brings back memories!

 

Without disassembly, I'd pull the plugs and try to turn it over by hand.
If it won't turn by hand, then disassemble.

If it will turn by hand, run compression.

 

yep, hot manifold + cold water = metal warpage. if your lucky, it flattened out after cooling; if not, may just need a new manifold. still cheaper than a rebuild though, lol