OK. Maybe i should have thought of it when i did it a while back but i was too excited about the mod. I made mine out of PVC pipe. Well after a weekend at the mountains and driving on dirt roads and such i noticed that my accelleration had gotten bad. Well i drove home and got home late. Its about an hour drive. I was driving home just now and noticed a slight whistle when i press the gas hard. Got home and find that the PVC had bent out of shape by getting so hot under the hood and having the pressure of the hose clamps on it. It bent enough to where there was a 1/8 inch gap on both sides of the pipe. Am I in trouble? What to do next? I have no idea how long it has been like this but my guess is just since yesterday but i was probably on the dirt roads when it happened.

Please help and be warned not to use pvc under the hood like stupid me.:pat: :pat:

 

Well, everyone laughed at my design, but I wrapped my PVC pipe with thermo tec stuff, and it hasn't missed a beat. Sorry it happened to you that way.

chris

 

I have to tell you that I used Contractors grade Electrical PVC pipe for my ISR and I have over 10k on it since and it is fine. I also live in New Mexico where temps range over 100 regularly and no melting, what did you use?

 

Yes... this stuff will hold up. Did you use Plumbers pipe?

 

I used 3" PVC right out of Home Depot, and then covered it with Thermo Tec Intake wrap and Thermo Tec tape. No problem either!

Chris

 

I'm thinking you might have used sched 20. Sched 40 may have even melted under that heat. A small muffler shop will bend (stretch) a pipe for ya. It only takes a couple of minutes. you need to have the truck there, so you can tweak it as they stretch it (the metal pipe) . A local guy here did mine and didn't charge me more than 10 bucks. Or, you could throw on an exhaust or muffler and I'm sure they'd do it for free.

 

On my 2nd Gen ISR I used the tail pipe method and then some rubber "For Drain or Sewer Use Only" couplings to transition to the throttle body and AFM. After a couple of test drives the rubber was super hot so I wrapped it with some pipe insulation (fire-retardant and heat reflective up to 180 degrees).

That seemed to have solved the problem. Give it a shot.

 

It didnt really melt but bent rather. It was sch 40. Anyways i put the stock resonator back on last night and the 4runner immediatly went back to the way it was supposed to act. Its amazing how much of a difference an 1/8 inch gap in your air tube makes. I mean it would idle betwee 400 and 800 rpm mostly around 500 and would somtimes just die on me randomly.

But all is fixed. Now all i need to do is re-do the mod.

 

Ditto ....
And mine is functioning perfectly too. I even machined down the ends so it would fit into the rubber couplers without any stress. Having an air leak in the intake plumbing can cause all kinds of problems for your performance... lean mixture that the maf cannot read.