After doing some research on this site and chatting with Steve from SS, I’ve come to the conclusion that after installing my lift I would definitely need an adjustable panhard/trac bar. I followed Steve’s advice and parked my rig on level ground and removed the bolt of my trac bar on the axel. To my surprise, there was no resistance what so ever. The holes were perfectly lined up, even after shaking my rig back and forth and also driving it back and forth on my driveway. Based on this experiment, theoretically I did not need to do anything with my trac bar. My question is, how is this possible? This should not be, due to the amount of lift on my rig. I have a 2001 4Runner, V6, 2WD, Sports Package, 1” PP coils (more like 3”) plus OME 10mm trim packers in the rear, Tokico TrekMaster Shocks. Check out the pics below and tell me what you guys think. FYI, I've had this lift on for about 2 weeks...plenty of time for the coils to settle.



Front



Rear



Even with this angle on the stock panhard/trac bar, the holes still line up.

 

Remember the intent of the adjustable panhard rod is to re-center your rear axle under the truck. Your bar is at an angle so that means your axle is shifted to the right side of your truck...the adjustable rod will fix that. In your reading you probably came across several posts with conflicting info on if you need it or not. It's all a matter if you want to do the lift right or as completely as possible (do everything you can to get all parts angle as close to stock as possible) or accept some compromises. I chose to do mine as completely as possible.

Have you noticed the back end of your 4Runner react any differently when going over a hard bump or during a hard/panic stop? Way back when, before I put on my drop bracket, I found my back end would kick to the side a bit when I hit a bump hard.

 

When you installed the panhard bar, did you have to lift the rear wheels off the ground with jackstands?

 

Your front being off can effect the rears. Have you measured the front front the wheel edge to the wheeel well (not to the ground). Plus as mentioned above, the axle being off center can make one spring lift more than the other. Hold a 4' stright edge up to your rear wheels and measure the distance to your body. This will tell you how far off center your axle is. If you have a 1" diff then you'll need to move it over half the distance. Did you get both springs set into their pockets correctly, that could explain the .5" difference.

 

Looks good though. Like the height.

 

cant answer your question but looks good, need some more meat though

 

I want to keep my rig as close to stock as possible, that is why I was going to install the adjustable trac bar but when I removed the bolt from my stock bar, there was no resistance what so ever. The holes stayed lined up, which means that my axel is not off center. If my axel was off center due to the lift, removing the bolt would be a PITA. After removing the bolt, the axel would straighten back out thus the holes not lining up...which means I would need an adjustable trac bar.

 

I never installed the adjustable panhard bar. According to Steve from SS, I didn't need one based on the experiment he told me to conduct. I removed one of the bolts from my stock panhard bar and see if the holes stay lined up, if the holes shift and they no longer line up, I don’t need an adjustable bar.

 

The rear is higher on purpose, I added OME 10mm trim packers to the rear. Can you show me visually how to measure the rear axel being off center?

 

how come the one inch coils gave u that much lift or if anybody else has an idea why cause i am very curious

 

This post will answer your question.

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/p.../#post50475926

 

thanx man

 

lift amounts are based on 99 4runner (usually) and therefore the lowrider 00+ are going to recieve more lift than a 99, and even a 98