Lift Mystery
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Los Angeles, CA.
Posts: 78
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Lift Mystery
After doing some research on this site and chatting with Steve from SS, I’ve come to the conclusion that after installing my lift I would definitely need an adjustable panhard/trac bar. I followed Steve’s advice and parked my rig on level ground and removed the bolt of my trac bar on the axel. To my surprise, there was no resistance what so ever. The holes were perfectly lined up, even after shaking my rig back and forth and also driving it back and forth on my driveway. Based on this experiment, theoretically I did not need to do anything with my trac bar. My question is, how is this possible? This should not be, due to the amount of lift on my rig. I have a 2001 4Runner, V6, 2WD, Sports Package, 1” PP coils (more like 3”) plus OME 10mm trim packers in the rear, Tokico TrekMaster Shocks. Check out the pics below and tell me what you guys think. FYI, I've had this lift on for about 2 weeks...plenty of time for the coils to settle.
Front
Rear
Even with this angle on the stock panhard/trac bar, the holes still line up.
Front
Rear
Even with this angle on the stock panhard/trac bar, the holes still line up.
#2
Contributing Member
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Colorado
Posts: 1,358
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Remember the intent of the adjustable panhard rod is to re-center your rear axle under the truck. Your bar is at an angle so that means your axle is shifted to the right side of your truck...the adjustable rod will fix that. In your reading you probably came across several posts with conflicting info on if you need it or not. It's all a matter if you want to do the lift right or as completely as possible (do everything you can to get all parts angle as close to stock as possible) or accept some compromises. I chose to do mine as completely as possible.
Have you noticed the back end of your 4Runner react any differently when going over a hard bump or during a hard/panic stop? Way back when, before I put on my drop bracket, I found my back end would kick to the side a bit when I hit a bump hard.
Have you noticed the back end of your 4Runner react any differently when going over a hard bump or during a hard/panic stop? Way back when, before I put on my drop bracket, I found my back end would kick to the side a bit when I hit a bump hard.
#4
Contributing Member
Your front being off can effect the rears. Have you measured the front front the wheel edge to the wheeel well (not to the ground). Plus as mentioned above, the axle being off center can make one spring lift more than the other. Hold a 4' stright edge up to your rear wheels and measure the distance to your body. This will tell you how far off center your axle is. If you have a 1" diff then you'll need to move it over half the distance. Did you get both springs set into their pockets correctly, that could explain the .5" difference.
Last edited by James Dean; 01-06-2008 at 08:18 AM.
#7
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Los Angeles, CA.
Posts: 78
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Remember the intent of the adjustable panhard rod is to re-center your rear axle under the truck. Your bar is at an angle so that means your axle is shifted to the right side of your truck...the adjustable rod will fix that. In your reading you probably came across several posts with conflicting info on if you need it or not. It's all a matter if you want to do the lift right or as completely as possible (do everything you can to get all parts angle as close to stock as possible) or accept some compromises. I chose to do mine as completely as possible.
Have you noticed the back end of your 4Runner react any differently when going over a hard bump or during a hard/panic stop? Way back when, before I put on my drop bracket, I found my back end would kick to the side a bit when I hit a bump hard.
Have you noticed the back end of your 4Runner react any differently when going over a hard bump or during a hard/panic stop? Way back when, before I put on my drop bracket, I found my back end would kick to the side a bit when I hit a bump hard.
Trending Topics
#8
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Los Angeles, CA.
Posts: 78
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I never installed the adjustable panhard bar. According to Steve from SS, I didn't need one based on the experiment he told me to conduct. I removed one of the bolts from my stock panhard bar and see if the holes stay lined up, if the holes shift and they no longer line up, I don’t need an adjustable bar.
#9
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Los Angeles, CA.
Posts: 78
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Your front being off can effect the rears. Have you measured the front front the wheel edge to the wheeel well (not to the ground). Plus as mentioned above, the axle being off center can make one spring lift more than the other. Hold a 4' stright edge up to your rear wheels and measure the distance to your body. This will tell you how far off center your axle is. If you have a 1" diff then you'll need to move it over half the distance. Did you get both springs set into their pockets correctly, that could explain the .5" difference.
#11
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Los Angeles, CA.
Posts: 78
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
1uzRunner
84-85 Trucks & 4Runners (Build-Up Section)
63
11-10-2018 03:58 PM
choppe777
Axles - Suspensions - Tires - Wheels
5
05-16-2016 08:00 AM