Clutch advice
Dec 4, 2007 | 09:45 AM
#1
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 189
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From: Roaring Spring, Pa
Clutch advice
Hey guys I have a friend who is willing to do my clutch and flywheel for a few bucks and I need opinions on which clutch to get I know Marlin and Centerforce are popular but my truck is almost strictly a DD and I wnat to know what route would you guys go to get a durable reasonable priced clutch thanks
Dec 4, 2007 | 01:48 PM
#7
Registered User
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 598
Likes: 3
From: seattle WA
i just did mine w/'Deathcouger" and we used a OEM Toyota, and all i gotta say, the toyota is nice.
it drives nice, and it lined up perfectly w/out the tool (DC did that though), remember you need the matching tool.
pretty big job, but we did it in 4 hours
also did
pilot and throwout bearings (need a pilot bearing removal tool too- the grease trick didnt work, as it oozed out the broken bearing).
tranny rear seal, (did that a week before)
main block rear seal
for a dd, i would recomend a easy/soft clutch.
i romp mine, and the oem does fine.
it drives nice, and it lined up perfectly w/out the tool (DC did that though), remember you need the matching tool.
pretty big job, but we did it in 4 hours
also did
pilot and throwout bearings (need a pilot bearing removal tool too- the grease trick didnt work, as it oozed out the broken bearing).
tranny rear seal, (did that a week before)
main block rear seal
for a dd, i would recomend a easy/soft clutch.
i romp mine, and the oem does fine.
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Dec 4, 2007 | 01:59 PM
#8
i just did mine w/'Deathcouger" and we used a OEM Toyota, and all i gotta say, the toyota is nice.
it drives nice, and it lined up perfectly w/out the tool (DC did that though), remember you need the matching tool.
pretty big job, but we did it in 4 hours
also did
pilot and throwout bearings (need a pilot bearing removal tool too- the grease trick didnt work, as it oozed out the broken bearing).
tranny rear seal, (did that a week before)
main block rear seal
for a dd, i would recomend a easy/soft clutch.
i romp mine, and the oem does fine.
it drives nice, and it lined up perfectly w/out the tool (DC did that though), remember you need the matching tool.
pretty big job, but we did it in 4 hours
also did
pilot and throwout bearings (need a pilot bearing removal tool too- the grease trick didnt work, as it oozed out the broken bearing).
tranny rear seal, (did that a week before)
main block rear seal
for a dd, i would recomend a easy/soft clutch.
i romp mine, and the oem does fine.
candle wax works like a champ
Dec 4, 2007 | 06:22 PM
#9
Registered User
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 8,656
Likes: 16
From: NW Ark on wooded ten acres...Ozarks at large!
I don't know....the Marlin 1200lb'r is pretty damn acceptable for a DD. Especially with a new master cylinder......thanks to Tortis. (Cheers, mate. How's the camping been? I've been swamped...as usual.) Oh, and I adjusted the pedal height. Made a big difference, too.
Anyway, 900ft/lbs is the OEM rating. Anything Marlin or WabFab (both Aisin/Seiki = OEM) has in that rating is superb....at less than Toyota cost.
(Edit:Ooops... Marlin doesn't off the OEM style.)
Anyway, 900ft/lbs is the OEM rating. Anything Marlin or WabFab (both Aisin/Seiki = OEM) has in that rating is superb....at less than Toyota cost.
(Edit:Ooops... Marlin doesn't off the OEM style.)
Last edited by thook; Dec 5, 2007 at 02:36 PM.
Dec 5, 2007 | 09:08 PM
#14
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Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 1,475
Likes: 1
From: Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada
I would get the Aisin stock clutch from Marlin (900 pounds or whatever) Or an OEM Toyota clutch, which I believe are one and the same, if not very similar from what I have heard.
It always makes me wonder why people who come on here with 100,000+ miles on their truck looking to replace the clutch and ask "what's a good brand?" Well your stock clutch just lasted you over 100,000 miles - do you need anymore proof as far as what clutch you should replace it with? In fact many stock clutches will last 150,000 miles or more depending on the type of driving.
It always makes me wonder why people who come on here with 100,000+ miles on their truck looking to replace the clutch and ask "what's a good brand?" Well your stock clutch just lasted you over 100,000 miles - do you need anymore proof as far as what clutch you should replace it with? In fact many stock clutches will last 150,000 miles or more depending on the type of driving.
Dec 5, 2007 | 10:50 PM
#15
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Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 9,055
Likes: 10
From: maple ridge, British Columbia, Canada
The marlins start at 1200ft-lbs of clamping force (stock is 900) Every single part in the marlin kit is OEM asco/aisin (whatever) the only difference is the springs have been tweaked by the factory for higher clamping force. I couldnt tell the difference in pedal feel when we did mine. It clamped a little harder but I got used to it real quick.
Dec 6, 2007 | 01:49 PM
#18
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Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 13
Likes: 0
From: Albuquerque, NM
I put the Marlin 1200 ft. lb. clutch setup on my 94' 22RE and it has been great. It grabs better than the stock unit but you don't feel that increase in the pedal, it feels stock on my truck. Only took 5 days (over a weekend) to get to my door with standard shipping. Overall I'm very happy with the price, performance and the service.
Dec 6, 2007 | 05:01 PM
#20
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Joined: May 2007
Posts: 636
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From: used to be so. cal. now Indy
one more for Marlin 1200#.
here is some first hand info, not he said, she said.
my OEM lasted 145K and the mechanic told me that the clutch disk still had some life on it but the reason for slipping was from the crapped out flywheel which needed some serious re-surfacing. so OEM is good, too.
i called Marlin asking if i "need" a new flywheel, i was told the old one should be fine as along as it's not blue, the mechanic told me the same thing. if money wasnt an issue at that time, i'd go get a new flywheel from Marlin, too.
the pedal is actually lighter with Marlin clutch.
i also had the rear main seal and fuel filter replaced, both OEM parts, no extra labor cost as they are right there while the trans is out.
here is some first hand info, not he said, she said.
my OEM lasted 145K and the mechanic told me that the clutch disk still had some life on it but the reason for slipping was from the crapped out flywheel which needed some serious re-surfacing. so OEM is good, too.
i called Marlin asking if i "need" a new flywheel, i was told the old one should be fine as along as it's not blue, the mechanic told me the same thing. if money wasnt an issue at that time, i'd go get a new flywheel from Marlin, too.
the pedal is actually lighter with Marlin clutch.
i also had the rear main seal and fuel filter replaced, both OEM parts, no extra labor cost as they are right there while the trans is out.
Last edited by TC4RNR; Dec 6, 2007 at 05:12 PM.
