Hello everyone, I just picked up a new trail rig, its a 91 4runner with the v6. After installing a new steering column I can now get the motor to crank over and kick on ether but wont start. My fuel gauge reads below empty and doesnt move, I know there is at least 10 gal of gas in it cuz thats what I added. Not sure if I shoul just drop the tank and put in a new pump or if there are things I need to check first. Any help will be appreciated. Thanks Deek

 

best way to test the fuel pump:

Crack open the cold start injector line, then run a jumper wire from B+ to Fp on the diagnostic port. That will bypass everything and make the fuelpump work. If no fuel comes out, then mess around with the fuel pump. if it comes shooting out the cold start line, you have another issue.

 

ALL electrical connections plugged? Are U sure? Are you really sure?

Shoot a lot of wd40 into the intake and see if it will attempt to crank. If so, you got a clogged fuel filter or dead pump in the tank.

ALL fuses good? check them all including the ones in the box on the passenger side fender well.

Let us know. We assume you are getting spark.................?

 

Not necessarily true. It could by any number of things, including MAF, Circuit open relay, etc.

Did it run before you replaced the steering column?

 

I bought it off of E-bay and had to go to Iowa to pick it up. Real horror story, half way into my 6 hour drive the seller calls and tells me he can't find the key so they tried to hot wire it and destroyed the ignition, I could get it to pop just a bit on ether but it never ran for me, He said it ran when he parked it. So, I bought a new tilt column off the internet hoping it was just ignition issues, guess not. I have checked all the fuses under the dash and under the hood and found nothing blown. Is the fuel level gauge tied into the fuel pump circuit? It doesn't appear to be working at all, I don't see an easy fuel line to pull off to check the pump, they all seem to be buried. I have not checked the stuff behind the glove box yet, not sure what to check for

 

When I bypass the open relay circuit and loosen the cold start injector do I need to have the key on or off, turn the motor over? It has taken me 3 hours to research where the cold start injector is to check it, I was a chevy man but always wanted a yota, I am starting to miss the ease of my chevy to work on. come on guys gimmie some help. I am a newbie on toyota's so speak dumbease please

 

yes make sure the key is on. You are trying to make the system think you are starting the truck.

 

Ok I bypassed B+ to fp and cracked the injector line with no success. I appear to have a fuel issue. I checked each plug wire with a timing light and each one lit up as I thought it should. I have a new fuel pump coming in the mail. Is there a way to test the ecm (Pass side kick panel?) before I drop the tank? I live near chicago and since my rig wont run I can't get it into the garage to wrench on it, so I am tryning test everything before I have to drop the tank in the driveway> Thanks guys I appreciate the advice

 

>>I can now get the motor to crank over and kick on ether but wont start<<

How exactly are you doing that? Are you pulling the tube from the airbox to the intake, shooting some in then reinstalling it?
If you leave that pipe off, it's never going to fire.
Just checking.

 

You said PO tried to hot wire it.....well, that tells me he may have trashed the ECU. You may have to get another ECU if it fails to crank after the fuel issue has been resolved. Other possible problems with hot wiring include the ignition module that has a transistor inside it, air flow meter as well as the distributor. Getting fuel to the cold start injector is paramount. But, as I have already suggested, you can spray wd-40 liberally into the intake through a vacuum port, and if it shows signs of wanting to run, the battle is fuel. Have a friend shoot the wd40 in while you crank.

My $0.02

 

Thanks for the .02, I will try this weekend and see what happens. thanks

 

Yeah...and in the future...keep the ether for carb'd vehicles. If a fuel injected motor doesn't start, ether isn't gonna fix it.

 

Ok, I dropped the glove box and checked the relays and breaker, they all seem as they should. My next question is how do you check power at the tank without dropping it? I cant see a plug and don't see how to get at the top of the tank without dropping it down.
As far as the hot wire issue goes, the jag I bought the truck from completely destroyed the key cylinder so he could turn it with a screw driver, there weren't any wires cut. Does anyone know if my ECU is bad, if 91 -95 ECU's are interchangeable? Or do I have to find a 91 specific?

 

Part of it depends on if you have an automatic or 5spd. Call a dealer and match part numbers for what years models will work with the '91. There could be differences in harnesses because of parts....like an added O2 sensor, for example.

Your not getting fuel, but your getting spark....correct?

With your new steering column, do you have a key for the ignition switch? Or, can you atleast turn the cylinder with a screw driver? What I'm getting at is that you need to see if your CEL will atleast come at when the ignition switch is turned.

 

I don't wanna be a downer but ether is pretty much for diesels or seating a tire on a wheel. ether will really F the compression on a gas motor because the rings don't have near the strength of those in diesel engines.

 

Thanks for the heads up on ether, I was just using it to see if the motor would pop over at all. As for the steering wheel, I am back to factory, I replaced the entire column with a new cylinder and key set. I looked at the ecu and it's clean, as in doesn't apear to ever have been wet or rusty. I am getting spark just no fuel, on top of the fuel tank, is that a plug? I can feel the power wires at the top of the tank but can not see them, I am trying to test the pump without dropping the tank, Its in the driveway and it's 18 degrees today

 

Ok, I was able to get the plug unhooked t the top of the tank, I then ran a good jumper wire to the neg side of the battery, and tested the plug, I have power (via test light) at one of the 3 wires going into the tank. I get power when the ignition is turned on but only at one wire. Should I be getting power to more than one wire? 2nd, the plug that goes to the sending unit( which now needs to be replaced since I broke a fuel line getting the pump plug loose) shows no signs of power at all in anyposition of the ignition. The fuel gauge has not moved at all ever since I brought the truck home.
an I run power to the fuel pump directly and which of the 3 wires should get power and which should get ground?

 

Thanks for the wiring info, it helped a bunch. At this point I have the jumper wires in place and have power at the tank but no fuel pressure. SO, I have a new pump and sending unit ready for install, as soon as I can catch a break in the weather I will be dropping the tank. Thanks for all the help on this leg of the journey, I will let you know what is broken next so I can ask more dumb questions. Thanks again, Deek

 

Ok fellas, I finally dug out the driveway and put on enough clothes to drop the tank. WOW is it rusty, So, I have replaced the pump, fuel level gauge, senders for both and all new hardware, I was able to clean the tank and get it looking pretty good. Hopefully i will get it put back together this weekend and see if it will run. I have had this thing since Thanksgiving and haven't heard it run yet.

 

okay, i'm having the same starting issue as deek....it's 7 degrees here but it isn't as windy as yesterday so i'm attempting to check out my truck (89 w/22re). i cracked the cold start injector, jumped B+ to fp and placed the key to the ON position. do i crank? i did and got enough fuel to just make the paper towel 'somewhat damp. is that enough? expecting 5-6" of white stuff tonight and i do miss driving my truck in the stuff. my 58 yr old bones don't like the cold weather as much as they used to.