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About to do my rotors

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Old Nov 14, 2007 | 10:34 PM
  #1  
magicninja's Avatar
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From: East Bay, CA
About to do my rotors

I've got new rotors and pads that im going to be putting on saturday. was wondering if I need to repack the wheel bearings while doing the rotors ? It's gonna be my first time doing brakes. If anybody is in the bay area and might be able to help, please let me know. I could buy you something to eat.
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Old Nov 15, 2007 | 03:33 AM
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From: New Brunswick, Canada
If it were me, I'd do them while I was in there if they are due.
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Old Nov 15, 2007 | 07:50 AM
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From: Port Coquitlam, BC
You have to remove the bearings anyway, no point in putting them back with old grease.
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Old Nov 15, 2007 | 08:59 AM
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From: Conway, AR
how do yall get all the grease off your bearings?
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Old Nov 15, 2007 | 02:24 PM
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From: Port Coquitlam, BC
Originally Posted by shifty
how do yall get all the grease off your bearings?
Wipe off as much as possible and then soak in Varsol or mineral spirits.

Last edited by eric-the-red; Nov 15, 2007 at 02:25 PM.
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Old Nov 15, 2007 | 02:40 PM
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From: Halifax, NS, Canada
Originally Posted by shifty
how do yall get all the grease off your bearings?
parts washer ;D
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Old Nov 15, 2007 | 03:33 PM
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From: Canada
Just finished doing rotors, pads and calipers on 86 22re pickup. Times two for repacking bearings. They're off anyway. Those cone washers can be tricky, but bang out decently with a swift rap using a brass rod.
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Old Nov 15, 2007 | 03:34 PM
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From: Canada
Maybe a 94 does not have cone washers. Sorry if that's misinformation.
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Old Nov 15, 2007 | 04:23 PM
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a 94 should have cone washers on the hubs i'm thinking.
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Old Nov 15, 2007 | 05:49 PM
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Another vote for repacking bearings. in fact new ones are cheap compared to those rotors, $15? Replacing is almost easier than cleaning them.
Just be ready for a mess. Nitrile gloves reccomended.
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Old Nov 15, 2007 | 07:17 PM
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From: Halifax, NS, Canada
napa priced wheel bearings for me at about $200 a side (for inner + outer + races). it's cheaper to repack them

getting the rotor off the hub might be a bitch - mine was rusted on solid. i ended up having to thread the bolts in halfway and wail on them with a hammer. if you have to do this, make sure they've got a good bite on the female threads or you'll mangle them (ask me how i know!). and remember to loctite everything when you put it back together.
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Old Nov 15, 2007 | 08:05 PM
  #12  
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From: Fremont, CA
Yea, repack the bearings like everyone else said. Mobil 1 seemed to be the most highly recommended on here when I did mine a couple of weeks ago, so thats what I went with. Was my first time also . . . definitely a learning experience doing 4wd.

Where u at in the Bay?
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Old Nov 15, 2007 | 09:39 PM
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From: East Bay, CA
I'm in pinole. its near richmond.
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Old Nov 16, 2007 | 07:59 PM
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From: People's Republic of Boulder
Originally Posted by isaac338
napa priced wheel bearings for me at about $200 a side (for inner + outer + races). it's cheaper to repack them
If you have AutoZone in your area, they sell Timken bearings (roughly equivalent to OEM and one of the best out there). Bearings and races for both sides should be less than the NAPA price quoted above.
Also, Checker/Shucks/Kragen often has a set of LARGE sockets for less than $40. I got a set for my truck and it has paid for itself just from loaner fees. The ease of taking the 54mm nuts off and putting them back on correctly is priceless.
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Old Nov 17, 2007 | 05:26 AM
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From: Greenville, SC
Yes, repack the bearings.

Unless the grease is contaminated the bearings are probably fine. No need to replace them.
The seals...yes, if they are 'due' go ahead and replace them (they are not expensive <$10.)

You can clean them a wide vareity of ways from solvents to simply blowing them out with compressed air (be prepared for a mess either way.) A bearing packer is a great way to repack them, but you can also do it with a handful of grease, just slower and messier.

DO NOT fill the hub with grease. More is NOT better.

Last edited by MonsterMaxx; Nov 17, 2007 at 05:27 AM.
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Old Nov 17, 2007 | 07:21 AM
  #16  
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From: Halifax, NS, Canada
Originally Posted by mtnfreak
If you have AutoZone in your area, they sell Timken bearings (roughly equivalent to OEM and one of the best out there). Bearings and races for both sides should be less than the NAPA price quoted above.
Also, Checker/Shucks/Kragen often has a set of LARGE sockets for less than $40. I got a set for my truck and it has paid for itself just from loaner fees. The ease of taking the 54mm nuts off and putting them back on correctly is priceless.
no autozones around here. i only priced those at napa on a whim, but my bearings are fine so i had no need to shop around. i bet i'd find them cheaper somewhere else

i bought a 2 1/8" socket at princess auto for about ten dollars, in 1" drive (they didn't have it in 3/4"), and a box of impact adapters to get me down to 1/2" for about $5. it's not the best quality stuff but it works and i've got more adapters than i'll ever use now.
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