About to do my rotors
#1
About to do my rotors
I've got new rotors and pads that im going to be putting on saturday. was wondering if I need to repack the wheel bearings while doing the rotors ? It's gonna be my first time doing brakes. If anybody is in the bay area and might be able to help, please let me know. I could buy you something to eat.
#5
#7
Just finished doing rotors, pads and calipers on 86 22re pickup. Times two for repacking bearings. They're off anyway. Those cone washers can be tricky, but bang out decently with a swift rap using a brass rod.
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#11
napa priced wheel bearings for me at about $200 a side (for inner + outer + races). it's cheaper to repack them 
getting the rotor off the hub might be a bitch - mine was rusted on solid. i ended up having to thread the bolts in halfway and wail on them with a hammer. if you have to do this, make sure they've got a good bite on the female threads or you'll mangle them (ask me how i know!). and remember to loctite everything when you put it back together.

getting the rotor off the hub might be a bitch - mine was rusted on solid. i ended up having to thread the bolts in halfway and wail on them with a hammer. if you have to do this, make sure they've got a good bite on the female threads or you'll mangle them (ask me how i know!). and remember to loctite everything when you put it back together.
#12
Yea, repack the bearings like everyone else said. Mobil 1 seemed to be the most highly recommended on here when I did mine a couple of weeks ago, so thats what I went with. Was my first time also . . . definitely a learning experience doing 4wd.
Where u at in the Bay?
Where u at in the Bay?
#14
Also, Checker/Shucks/Kragen often has a set of LARGE sockets for less than $40. I got a set for my truck and it has paid for itself just from loaner fees. The ease of taking the 54mm nuts off and putting them back on correctly is priceless.
#15
Yes, repack the bearings.
Unless the grease is contaminated the bearings are probably fine. No need to replace them.
The seals...yes, if they are 'due' go ahead and replace them (they are not expensive <$10.)
You can clean them a wide vareity of ways from solvents to simply blowing them out with compressed air (be prepared for a mess either way.) A bearing packer is a great way to repack them, but you can also do it with a handful of grease, just slower and messier.
DO NOT fill the hub with grease. More is NOT better.
Unless the grease is contaminated the bearings are probably fine. No need to replace them.
The seals...yes, if they are 'due' go ahead and replace them (they are not expensive <$10.)
You can clean them a wide vareity of ways from solvents to simply blowing them out with compressed air (be prepared for a mess either way.) A bearing packer is a great way to repack them, but you can also do it with a handful of grease, just slower and messier.
DO NOT fill the hub with grease. More is NOT better.
Last edited by MonsterMaxx; Nov 17, 2007 at 05:27 AM.
#16
If you have AutoZone in your area, they sell Timken bearings (roughly equivalent to OEM and one of the best out there). Bearings and races for both sides should be less than the NAPA price quoted above.
Also, Checker/Shucks/Kragen often has a set of LARGE sockets for less than $40. I got a set for my truck and it has paid for itself just from loaner fees. The ease of taking the 54mm nuts off and putting them back on correctly is priceless.
Also, Checker/Shucks/Kragen often has a set of LARGE sockets for less than $40. I got a set for my truck and it has paid for itself just from loaner fees. The ease of taking the 54mm nuts off and putting them back on correctly is priceless.

i bought a 2 1/8" socket at princess auto for about ten dollars, in 1" drive (they didn't have it in 3/4"), and a box of impact adapters to get me down to 1/2" for about $5. it's not the best quality stuff but it works and i've got more adapters than i'll ever use now.
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