Hey dudes, just picked up an 88 4x4 PU 22re and I'm looking to do a new clutch and new cv joints on my own. I consider myself pretty mechanically inclined, how hard of a project am I looking at? Are there any special tools I need? I searched on here for a bit looking for some DIY's but couldn't find much. Thanks.

 

both projects are relatively simple, but the clutch is pretty involved. it's all just unbolting stuff, though. just keep track of things and take your time. rent/borrow a transmission jack and have a buddy handy cause they're heavy and they hurt like hell when they fall on you.

if you're just replacing old cv joints with new it's just unbolt and replace. if you're replacing boots you might need the clamp tool to tighten the band clamps over the new boot, but i'm not sure about that.

good luck

 

i am not one to tell somebody to search, but there are somethings like using candle wax to remove the pilot bearing, and the use of a trans. jack as mentioned above. you will need about 24" of extension to reach the top bolts on the bell housing. replace the remain while you are there.. if you get in a tight spot, we can help you out. welcome to Y/T

ps put your vehicle in your sig. it helps us answer your questions without having to ask what you are working on.

 

I've done both of them. The CV's are a 30 minute job if you replace the studs on the axle with bolts.

The clutch is straightforward. Just keep in mind that you will need an extra set of hands to help lower the tranny/transfer case.

 

I have done both as well. The 1st CV joint took me about 2 hours to figure out what to loosen and how to get the bugger out. The second one then took about 1/2 hour. Funny how that works.

The clutch wasn't to bad either. I didn't use a transmission jack, however, i did have a floor jack and two buddies helping me get it out, and a floor jack and three buddies to get it back in. Make sure you either remove the horse collar cross member or loosen the t-case mounts on it when you go to put the tranny back in place. I think the project took me 3 hours to get stuff off and out. Remember that the starter bolts on from the front, and you have to take those bolts off too. We used some 3ft of extensions to get to the top transmission bolt as well. I got the pilot bearing out with a bearing puller i borrowed from autozone. fast and easy, i recommend that. Installing new parts, reinstalling the tranny, and buttoning things up probably ended up taking me 6 hours or so. Of course i had to spend a bunch of time cleaning the 1st few threads on one of the clutch plate bolt holes.

All in all both are easily doable, it will just take some time.

 

Yeah clutch is work , not necessarily hard just tedious and transmission purty heavy , hope you have a little help or a hard surface and nice jack - actually both will make it pretty easy , just remember to get that pressure plate re-surfaced

 

Thanks a lot guys, sounds like its doable. I've found some good aftermarket clutch options, anything you guys recommend as far as buying new cv joints?

 

I have done both.

CV's - pretty easy, you can definitely do it yourself. I used remanned ones from Autozone, $69 after core with a lifetime guarantee.

Clutch - mine was a super PITA. It took ALL DAY to get the pilot bearing out. Broke two pilot bearing pullers. It's not a tough job, just a lot of unbolting. I had a tranny jack - highly recommend that. I went with a Marlin Crawler clutch. It was the only one that didn't have mixed reviews (they were all good, as opposed to the Centerforce and others where some said it was good, some said it was bad)

 

I always used the 'ol fill the pilot bearing hole with grease and then stick the clutch alignment tool in and rap with hammer push that little pain right on out with hydraulics

 

Yeah, I had read that technique, but forgot about it when the time came to use it, so I don't know if it would have worked or not.

 

Hehe , thats the way it always is , like that tool you know you have and can't find , you always find it a day after you don't need it

 

my pilot bearing came out with the bolt and grease trick. took a few whacks and i had to retape the bolt to get it to fit right (the tape kept coming off). the haynes manual suggests using a tight-fitting socket instead.

 

But socket has a hole in it , kinda defeats the purpose unless you plug it with something awful hard .