22RTE to 22RE....how hard?
#1
22RTE to 22RE....how hard?
so, I officially give up on my motor. after months of work, and a bunch of money, it still has a little bottom end noise, AND now the turbo's toast.
soo....I'm thinking about just going N/A. what modifications would be necessary to get it to run? Would the turbo ECU run it very well?
soo....I'm thinking about just going N/A. what modifications would be necessary to get it to run? Would the turbo ECU run it very well?
#3
I honestly don't know if the turbo ECU will run it OK as the AFM will notice that there isn't enough air flow to be in boost. Experience with EFI tuning indicates that the fuel map might be right for out of boost, but things like acceleration enrichment would be off. Timing map may or may not be different.. Basically without knowing the engineering details of the fuel map and timing map, you'll have to find someone that's tried it...
If you want to convert to 22RE, you can do that.. here's what I know would be required:
1) Piston change, as the 22RTE has low compression pistons. This is critical if you don't want to drive a truck that puts down 70 hp.
2) Head change, not as critical, but it still impacts compression.
3) Swap EFI computers and injectors. Make sure you stick with the same year range 22RE injectors and verify impedance. The 22RE ecu will drop in, the only difference is heated 02 vs non-heated 02, which you probably won't notice.
4) Figure out if the 22RTE AFM and 22RE afm are different, I simply don't know.
5) swap the whole sha-bang as mentioned above.
Bottom line, as you've got to swap motors or pistons to get it right, you're in for a lot of work..
Detail what you've had done, what money you've spent, and what the current problems are.
The CT20 is an expensive little turd.. You can convert to a CT26, which is cheaper, performs better, and will be less expensive.
If you're paying to have this work done, it's probably more cost effective to move on to another vehicle.
If you want to convert to 22RE, you can do that.. here's what I know would be required:
1) Piston change, as the 22RTE has low compression pistons. This is critical if you don't want to drive a truck that puts down 70 hp.
2) Head change, not as critical, but it still impacts compression.
3) Swap EFI computers and injectors. Make sure you stick with the same year range 22RE injectors and verify impedance. The 22RE ecu will drop in, the only difference is heated 02 vs non-heated 02, which you probably won't notice.
4) Figure out if the 22RTE AFM and 22RE afm are different, I simply don't know.
5) swap the whole sha-bang as mentioned above.
Bottom line, as you've got to swap motors or pistons to get it right, you're in for a lot of work..
Detail what you've had done, what money you've spent, and what the current problems are.
The CT20 is an expensive little turd.. You can convert to a CT26, which is cheaper, performs better, and will be less expensive.
If you're paying to have this work done, it's probably more cost effective to move on to another vehicle.
Last edited by dcg9381; May 18, 2007 at 11:41 AM.
#5
I've got bottom end noise. it's got new main bearings, new thrust washers, rod bearings checked out fine, new timing chain, with guides and tensioner.
noise hasn't changed
and now the turbo starts blowing oil. *white flag*
so, for simplicity's sake, new engine, no turbo. I was thinking, since the RTE guys talk about putting an N/A head on the turbo engine, I could make my sensors and whatnot work on an N/A head. In short, drop in a 22RE longblock, and let 'er buck.
my toyota experience is limited, but in the subaru world, you can essentially plug the MAF right into the throttle body, and the thing will still work (obviously...no boost + low CR makes for a gutless wonder...but it'll work). So I'm taking it a step further, 'high' compression block too.
In theory, the ECU will notice the smaller amount of air being drawn in through the MAF, and compensate.
the real kicker here, is I want to keep my auto trans.
noise hasn't changed
and now the turbo starts blowing oil. *white flag*
so, for simplicity's sake, new engine, no turbo. I was thinking, since the RTE guys talk about putting an N/A head on the turbo engine, I could make my sensors and whatnot work on an N/A head. In short, drop in a 22RE longblock, and let 'er buck.
my toyota experience is limited, but in the subaru world, you can essentially plug the MAF right into the throttle body, and the thing will still work (obviously...no boost + low CR makes for a gutless wonder...but it'll work). So I'm taking it a step further, 'high' compression block too.
In theory, the ECU will notice the smaller amount of air being drawn in through the MAF, and compensate.
the real kicker here, is I want to keep my auto trans.
#6
When you dropped in new bearings, thrust, and all the other fun stuff, did you take it in to a machine shop and have the crank turned, ect? Basic rebuild stuff.. It takes sooo little to throw an engine off - you've got to measure all of it.
Could you try throwing in a 22RE short block? Sure.. you've got a reasonable chance of it running right. One thing I've noticed from tuning these motors is that the low compression motors can handle a lot more timing than the high compresson motors when not running in boost.. So honestly, I don't know what will happen.. Worst case, you swap the motor and then you end up swapping in 22RE injectors, ECU and any other 22RE specific parts..
Could you try throwing in a 22RE short block? Sure.. you've got a reasonable chance of it running right. One thing I've noticed from tuning these motors is that the low compression motors can handle a lot more timing than the high compresson motors when not running in boost.. So honestly, I don't know what will happen.. Worst case, you swap the motor and then you end up swapping in 22RE injectors, ECU and any other 22RE specific parts..
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#8
Yes, just buy a complete, different used engine. The turbo motor is going to have inherent differences like lower compression pistons, ECU etc. I think you could get good money for the turbo engine and even make a profit and end up with a new 22RE
#11
the whole point is to NOT go swap route. I don't want to touch wiring, or bellhousing or anything. I did the whole nine yards on my subaru....I don't want that for this.
I did not pull the motor for any of this work, bearings and thrust washer were done from under the truck with the oil pan off. but if I do, there's no way that this same motor goes back in without some serious machine shop work, and there's no way I'm dropping that kind of money on it in the near future.
I plan to keep the old motor, and at some point put it back in, it's a very cool motor. but the investment required to do that properly is more than I'm putting into the motor at this stage. Hence the wanting NOT to touch the wiring harness...
I don't care about original. it'll be getting SAS'd and lifted to the sky eventually anyway. and the body will get pretty beat up (which will go pretty well with the nasty cosmetic rust).
the motor as-is isn't worth much....unless I conveniently leave out the nasty bottom end noise that sounds like someone dropped a bag of bolts in the motor....(ok, I'm exaggerating....but only a little)
all I want to know is what my cheap, easy, get-this-thing-on-the-trails options are. things like, could a 22RE ECU plug into the RTE harness (this is possible with older subarus....just a few more wires for the turbo ones)? could it run the auto tranny? could it run the digi dash? would an analog dash swap be easy? could N/A injectors plug into RTE harness?
I'm not up for long-term, high injestment projects with this thing. I have a garage to work in, I'm not even working on pavement. and engine swap will involve a hoist on plywood on gravel. and any engine work will involve a flight of stairs to any shelter.
if noone knows...that's fine. I'll just drop it in with an AFR gauge, and see how it goes. I bet it'd work pretty darn well.
I did not pull the motor for any of this work, bearings and thrust washer were done from under the truck with the oil pan off. but if I do, there's no way that this same motor goes back in without some serious machine shop work, and there's no way I'm dropping that kind of money on it in the near future.
I plan to keep the old motor, and at some point put it back in, it's a very cool motor. but the investment required to do that properly is more than I'm putting into the motor at this stage. Hence the wanting NOT to touch the wiring harness...
I don't care about original. it'll be getting SAS'd and lifted to the sky eventually anyway. and the body will get pretty beat up (which will go pretty well with the nasty cosmetic rust).
the motor as-is isn't worth much....unless I conveniently leave out the nasty bottom end noise that sounds like someone dropped a bag of bolts in the motor....(ok, I'm exaggerating....but only a little)
all I want to know is what my cheap, easy, get-this-thing-on-the-trails options are. things like, could a 22RE ECU plug into the RTE harness (this is possible with older subarus....just a few more wires for the turbo ones)? could it run the auto tranny? could it run the digi dash? would an analog dash swap be easy? could N/A injectors plug into RTE harness?
I'm not up for long-term, high injestment projects with this thing. I have a garage to work in, I'm not even working on pavement. and engine swap will involve a hoist on plywood on gravel. and any engine work will involve a flight of stairs to any shelter.
if noone knows...that's fine. I'll just drop it in with an AFR gauge, and see how it goes. I bet it'd work pretty darn well.
Last edited by Numbchux; May 19, 2007 at 08:20 PM.
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22re, 22rte, 88, bagged, compression, computers, conversion, difference, ecu, hard, heads, low, na, pistons, pull





