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86-95 Trucks & 4Runners 2nd/3rd gen pickups, and 1st/2nd gen 4Runners with IFS

brake job lessons learned

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Old Apr 3, 2007 | 02:59 PM
  #1  
isaac338's Avatar
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From: Halifax, NS, Canada
brake job lessons learned

1. the hub will separate from the rotor.. eventually. given a big enough chisel + hammer and enough cursing and pounding.

2. if you put both outer pads on one side, when you do the other side you'll spend half an hour trying to figure out why the pins won't line up. pay attention!

3. one man brake bleeder kits are worth their weight in gold.

4. seized calipers aren't.

5. braking without horrid grinding noises is quite nice.

that is all!
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Old Apr 3, 2007 | 03:28 PM
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From: TN native stuck in AL
Doing your own work feels good, huh!
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Old Apr 3, 2007 | 03:39 PM
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ovrrdrive's Avatar
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From: Central Florida
Heat is your best friend...



Saving a few hundred bucks feels nice too doesn't it?
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Old Apr 3, 2007 | 03:43 PM
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From: NV
Originally Posted by isaac338

3. one man brake bleeder kits are worth their weight in gold.
I'll second that. Those things are great.
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Old Apr 3, 2007 | 03:46 PM
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TNRabbit's Avatar
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From: TENN Native Languishing in Virginia
soak hubs in PB Blaster for an hour before you beat the hell out of them, then use an air hammer. makes short work of getting the rotor off. Also, to avoid having to do it again in a year, get OEM rotors. They last forever if properly cared for.
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Old Apr 3, 2007 | 03:50 PM
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From: South
I just use a 3lbs deadblow hammer. Comes off quite easy. Just remember to take out those cone washers!
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Old Apr 3, 2007 | 03:51 PM
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From: Halifax, NS, Canada
i can't afford OEM stuff, i find. i'm broke 99% of the time anyways

a buddy works at a truck place and gets atlas parts at cost. new ceramic pads, rotors, shoes, drums, and a spring combi kit were all $170 taxes in. can't go wrong with that!
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Old Apr 3, 2007 | 03:52 PM
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From: Halifax, NS, Canada
i separated the rotor from the hub by driving a big chisel in behind the lug studs. probably not the best method but it works well.

my garbage haynes manual (or whatever) says you need to pound out the studs to remove the rotor. it took me a while to figure that one out..
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