brake job lessons learned
04-03-2007, 02:59 PM
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brake job lessons learned
1. the hub will separate from the rotor.. eventually. given a big enough chisel + hammer and enough cursing and pounding.
2. if you put both outer pads on one side, when you do the other side you'll spend half an hour trying to figure out why the pins won't line up. pay attention!
3. one man brake bleeder kits are worth their weight in gold.
4. seized calipers aren't.
5. braking without horrid grinding noises is quite nice.
that is all!
2. if you put both outer pads on one side, when you do the other side you'll spend half an hour trying to figure out why the pins won't line up. pay attention!
3. one man brake bleeder kits are worth their weight in gold.
4. seized calipers aren't.
5. braking without horrid grinding noises is quite nice.
that is all!
04-03-2007, 03:46 PM
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soak hubs in PB Blaster for an hour before you beat the hell out of them, then use an air hammer. makes short work of getting the rotor off. Also, to avoid having to do it again in a year, get OEM rotors. They last forever if properly cared for.
04-03-2007, 03:51 PM
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i can't afford OEM stuff, i find. i'm broke 99% of the time anyways 
a buddy works at a truck place and gets atlas parts at cost. new ceramic pads, rotors, shoes, drums, and a spring combi kit were all $170 taxes in. can't go wrong with that!
a buddy works at a truck place and gets atlas parts at cost. new ceramic pads, rotors, shoes, drums, and a spring combi kit were all $170 taxes in. can't go wrong with that!
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04-03-2007, 03:52 PM
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i separated the rotor from the hub by driving a big chisel in behind the lug studs. probably not the best method but it works well.
my garbage haynes manual (or whatever) says you need to pound out the studs to remove the rotor. it took me a while to figure that one out..
my garbage haynes manual (or whatever) says you need to pound out the studs to remove the rotor. it took me a while to figure that one out..
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