Starter works on bench, not in pickup (getting full power)
#1
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Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 5
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From: Vancouver Is, British Columbia
Starter works on bench, not in pickup (getting full power)
Hey all,
I've scoured the forums for ideas and can't find any, so hoping folks might have a suggestion for me.
Starter isn't turning over. Just the click. No matter how many times I turn the key.
I started by checking the connections. It's getting full power to the starter motor (12.3 volts) and the solenoid (approx 11 V when someone turns the ignition). So i figured the starter was dead.
So, I took the starter out and into the local parts shop where they tested it and it ran fine! Over and over.
So i reinstalled it, checked all the connections again, and it's the same story. Just clicking. Does anyone have any suggestions? Would certainly appreciate the help.
This is my first post on yotatech, so i want to say these forums are always the first place i look for info. Thanks everyone for all the help over the years!
I've scoured the forums for ideas and can't find any, so hoping folks might have a suggestion for me.
Starter isn't turning over. Just the click. No matter how many times I turn the key.
I started by checking the connections. It's getting full power to the starter motor (12.3 volts) and the solenoid (approx 11 V when someone turns the ignition). So i figured the starter was dead.
So, I took the starter out and into the local parts shop where they tested it and it ran fine! Over and over.
So i reinstalled it, checked all the connections again, and it's the same story. Just clicking. Does anyone have any suggestions? Would certainly appreciate the help.
This is my first post on yotatech, so i want to say these forums are always the first place i look for info. Thanks everyone for all the help over the years!
#3
Check the Amps getting to the starter.
I had the same problem a while back, my positive terminal was clean, but there was a ton of corrosion and salt about 1/2 inch down the cable under the insulation.
Start with the + and - cables first, just replace them, they are cheap
I had the same problem a while back, my positive terminal was clean, but there was a ton of corrosion and salt about 1/2 inch down the cable under the insulation.
Start with the + and - cables first, just replace them, they are cheap
#7
Thread Starter
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Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 5
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From: Vancouver Is, British Columbia
Thanks for all the tips.
I'm pretty sure it's not bad connections or battery. I'd cleaned all the connections at the battery and starter end. The ground cable and its connections are good. Tried a new battery too.
I just talked to someone who agreed with Ringmaster that the contacts are the likely problem, even though it ran fine on the bench. So the starter is BACK out the pickup and I've got new contacts on the way. Will let you know if that solves things. Thanks y'all,
I'm pretty sure it's not bad connections or battery. I'd cleaned all the connections at the battery and starter end. The ground cable and its connections are good. Tried a new battery too.
I just talked to someone who agreed with Ringmaster that the contacts are the likely problem, even though it ran fine on the bench. So the starter is BACK out the pickup and I've got new contacts on the way. Will let you know if that solves things. Thanks y'all,
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#8
when i had some cheap terminal connectors after a while it would just click once and nothing would happen, even though they were clean and fairly tight, for a while i had to jump some pliars over the positive terminal to the positive wire, but i got some new ones and it works fine now. just something to look at
#11
it takes a lot less torque to spin that small gear while youre benching it, when connected to a flywheel its a much heavier load. that being said, if the strong working starter was straining to turn a siezed motor, it's make a hell of a noise. an unhappy noise. fortunately the starter isnt tooo bad to get to.
#12
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Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 5
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From: Vancouver Is, British Columbia
Here's how the story ends...
Rebuilding the starter solenoid (which, just to confirm, is a piece of cake if you have the starter out) didn't solve the problem. It wasn't the starter contacts.
Then I finally wisened up. The positive lead to the starter motor was getting 12 volts alright, but not enough current to crank it. That was the problem. My advice is, before tearing the starter out, try jumping the starter straight from the battery to determine if it's the starter or a bad connection. A pair of jumper cables will work as the ground and the positive lead to the the starter motor side; a sturdy gauge wire, jammed into positive connector on the solenoid side can powered to test that connection. Crude, but a easy first step to diagnose starter vs connection.
Rebuilding the starter solenoid (which, just to confirm, is a piece of cake if you have the starter out) didn't solve the problem. It wasn't the starter contacts.
Then I finally wisened up. The positive lead to the starter motor was getting 12 volts alright, but not enough current to crank it. That was the problem. My advice is, before tearing the starter out, try jumping the starter straight from the battery to determine if it's the starter or a bad connection. A pair of jumper cables will work as the ground and the positive lead to the the starter motor side; a sturdy gauge wire, jammed into positive connector on the solenoid side can powered to test that connection. Crude, but a easy first step to diagnose starter vs connection.
#13
lol- I like post #7- I was sure all my contacts were good too...
It was only after I peeled the insulation back on the positive cable I saw the problem.
let this be a lesson to all ye others about a bad batterey cables.
At least two of us on the board have pulled the starter only to find it was the cable
At least you know how to pull a starter and rebuild the solenoid
It was only after I peeled the insulation back on the positive cable I saw the problem.
let this be a lesson to all ye others about a bad batterey cables.
At least two of us on the board have pulled the starter only to find it was the cable
At least you know how to pull a starter and rebuild the solenoid
#14
Here's how the story ends...
Rebuilding the starter solenoid (which, just to confirm, is a piece of cake if you have the starter out) didn't solve the problem. It wasn't the starter contacts.
Then I finally wisened up. The positive lead to the starter motor was getting 12 volts alright, but not enough current to crank it. That was the problem. My advice is, before tearing the starter out, try jumping the starter straight from the battery to determine if it's the starter or a bad connection. A pair of jumper cables will work as the ground and the positive lead to the the starter motor side; a sturdy gauge wire, jammed into positive connector on the solenoid side can powered to test that connection. Crude, but a easy first step to diagnose starter vs connection.
Rebuilding the starter solenoid (which, just to confirm, is a piece of cake if you have the starter out) didn't solve the problem. It wasn't the starter contacts.
Then I finally wisened up. The positive lead to the starter motor was getting 12 volts alright, but not enough current to crank it. That was the problem. My advice is, before tearing the starter out, try jumping the starter straight from the battery to determine if it's the starter or a bad connection. A pair of jumper cables will work as the ground and the positive lead to the the starter motor side; a sturdy gauge wire, jammed into positive connector on the solenoid side can powered to test that connection. Crude, but a easy first step to diagnose starter vs connection.
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...shtml#EasyTest
#15
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Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 5
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From: Vancouver Is, British Columbia
Yep, the 4crawler page above is a great resource! But I'm adding the note that good voltage to your starter (like I was getting using those simple tests) doesn't actually rule out bad connections. Disconnecting the starter and jumping it straight off the battery is a more direct test to start with.
But hey, now I can get that starter in and out with my eyes closed!
But hey, now I can get that starter in and out with my eyes closed!
#17
Yep, the 4crawler page above is a great resource! But I'm adding the note that good voltage to your starter (like I was getting using those simple tests) doesn't actually rule out bad connections. Disconnecting the starter and jumping it straight off the battery is a more direct test to start with.
But hey, now I can get that starter in and out with my eyes closed!
But hey, now I can get that starter in and out with my eyes closed!
#19
After reading everything you guys had to say I am starting to doubt if my problem lies in my starter. I thought it had just died, but since I have had other electrical issue's recently I think I will have to do a little more research. (just as soon as it warms up)
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