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Starter works on bench, not in pickup (getting full power)

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Old Mar 20, 2007 | 01:53 PM
  #1  
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From: Vancouver Is, British Columbia
Starter works on bench, not in pickup (getting full power)

Hey all,

I've scoured the forums for ideas and can't find any, so hoping folks might have a suggestion for me.

Starter isn't turning over. Just the click. No matter how many times I turn the key.

I started by checking the connections. It's getting full power to the starter motor (12.3 volts) and the solenoid (approx 11 V when someone turns the ignition). So i figured the starter was dead.

So, I took the starter out and into the local parts shop where they tested it and it ran fine! Over and over.

So i reinstalled it, checked all the connections again, and it's the same story. Just clicking. Does anyone have any suggestions? Would certainly appreciate the help.

This is my first post on yotatech, so i want to say these forums are always the first place i look for info. Thanks everyone for all the help over the years!
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Old Mar 20, 2007 | 02:20 PM
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From: TENN Native Languishing in Virginia
Your relay is bad, or you have a ground problem somewhere. OR both.
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Old Mar 20, 2007 | 02:26 PM
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From: phoenix
Check the Amps getting to the starter.

I had the same problem a while back, my positive terminal was clean, but there was a ton of corrosion and salt about 1/2 inch down the cable under the insulation.

Start with the + and - cables first, just replace them, they are cheap
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Old Mar 20, 2007 | 03:40 PM
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From: Renton, WA
if its a stick mske sure the clutch is pushed in or the saftey cancel button working...
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Old Mar 20, 2007 | 05:02 PM
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From: Middleburg, FL
Dirty Terminals or bad ground.
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Old Mar 20, 2007 | 05:10 PM
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From: Spokane Valley Washington
Somewhere here on YT is a thread about overhauling starters.

I think what you have is the contact inside the starter has gone bad.

Find the thread and get to it.
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Old Mar 20, 2007 | 05:31 PM
  #7  
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Thanks for all the tips.

I'm pretty sure it's not bad connections or battery. I'd cleaned all the connections at the battery and starter end. The ground cable and its connections are good. Tried a new battery too.

I just talked to someone who agreed with Ringmaster that the contacts are the likely problem, even though it ran fine on the bench. So the starter is BACK out the pickup and I've got new contacts on the way. Will let you know if that solves things. Thanks y'all,
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Old Mar 20, 2007 | 06:09 PM
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From: Wenatchee WA
when i had some cheap terminal connectors after a while it would just click once and nothing would happen, even though they were clean and fairly tight, for a while i had to jump some pliars over the positive terminal to the positive wire, but i got some new ones and it works fine now. just something to look at
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Old Mar 20, 2007 | 06:14 PM
  #9  
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From: TENN Native Languishing in Virginia
Be sure you check your chassis to engine ground.
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Old Mar 20, 2007 | 07:59 PM
  #10  
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From: Surrey,BC
Good suggestions on the connections, contacts etc. Have you tried turning the engine over manually? Maybe the engine is seized.
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Old Mar 20, 2007 | 08:14 PM
  #11  
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From: Frederick, MD
it takes a lot less torque to spin that small gear while youre benching it, when connected to a flywheel its a much heavier load. that being said, if the strong working starter was straining to turn a siezed motor, it's make a hell of a noise. an unhappy noise. fortunately the starter isnt tooo bad to get to.
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Old Mar 29, 2007 | 12:33 PM
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Here's how the story ends...

Rebuilding the starter solenoid (which, just to confirm, is a piece of cake if you have the starter out) didn't solve the problem. It wasn't the starter contacts.

Then I finally wisened up. The positive lead to the starter motor was getting 12 volts alright, but not enough current to crank it. That was the problem. My advice is, before tearing the starter out, try jumping the starter straight from the battery to determine if it's the starter or a bad connection. A pair of jumper cables will work as the ground and the positive lead to the the starter motor side; a sturdy gauge wire, jammed into positive connector on the solenoid side can powered to test that connection. Crude, but a easy first step to diagnose starter vs connection.
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Old Mar 29, 2007 | 01:19 PM
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From: phoenix
lol- I like post #7- I was sure all my contacts were good too...

It was only after I peeled the insulation back on the positive cable I saw the problem.

let this be a lesson to all ye others about a bad batterey cables.

At least two of us on the board have pulled the starter only to find it was the cable

At least you know how to pull a starter and rebuild the solenoid
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Old Mar 29, 2007 | 02:03 PM
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Originally Posted by spencer
Here's how the story ends...

Rebuilding the starter solenoid (which, just to confirm, is a piece of cake if you have the starter out) didn't solve the problem. It wasn't the starter contacts.

Then I finally wisened up. The positive lead to the starter motor was getting 12 volts alright, but not enough current to crank it. That was the problem. My advice is, before tearing the starter out, try jumping the starter straight from the battery to determine if it's the starter or a bad connection. A pair of jumper cables will work as the ground and the positive lead to the the starter motor side; a sturdy gauge wire, jammed into positive connector on the solenoid side can powered to test that connection. Crude, but a easy first step to diagnose starter vs connection.
Yep, one of a few simple tests to do first:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...shtml#EasyTest
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Old Mar 29, 2007 | 07:41 PM
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Yep, the 4crawler page above is a great resource! But I'm adding the note that good voltage to your starter (like I was getting using those simple tests) doesn't actually rule out bad connections. Disconnecting the starter and jumping it straight off the battery is a more direct test to start with.

But hey, now I can get that starter in and out with my eyes closed!
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Old Mar 29, 2007 | 07:57 PM
  #16  
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From: WA
Replace the contacts in the solenoid. It will spin it under no load, but not under a load. Pull off the small cover, and inspect. Can get them (contacts) from the dealer.
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Old Mar 29, 2007 | 08:03 PM
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Originally Posted by spencer
Yep, the 4crawler page above is a great resource! But I'm adding the note that good voltage to your starter (like I was getting using those simple tests) doesn't actually rule out bad connections. Disconnecting the starter and jumping it straight off the battery is a more direct test to start with.

But hey, now I can get that starter in and out with my eyes closed!
The key is to test the voltage "under load", then you'll pick up bad connections or bad wires. So you need to have the volt meter in place when you try and turn the starter over and see what the meter reads then. And if the problem is intermittent, compare the voltage when things work fine to when they don't and see what changes.
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Old Mar 29, 2007 | 08:13 PM
  #18  
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From: Maryland
Don't know about you guys but I had a helluva time sourcing both contacts from dealerships locally. Wound up going to a local starter/alternator shop and found 'em without problem. YMMV.
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Old Mar 29, 2007 | 08:25 PM
  #19  
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From: Some where in Utah
After reading everything you guys had to say I am starting to doubt if my problem lies in my starter. I thought it had just died, but since I have had other electrical issue's recently I think I will have to do a little more research. (just as soon as it warms up)
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