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86-95 Trucks & 4Runners 2nd/3rd gen pickups, and 1st/2nd gen 4Runners with IFS

Can't remove bolt from lateral conrol rod!

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Old Mar 7, 2005 | 06:27 AM
  #41  
PAhydrohead's Avatar
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Its Done!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !

Yes, I know it took forever but when you young whipper snappers on this board get some kids of your own you'll understand ( I can't believe I'm saying this I'm not even 40 yet!).

I'm going to keep this on topic and post the rest in the B.J. spacer/Cruiser coil/longer shock thread.

In order to get the LCR off, I cut the bolt in two places with a grinder. Cut the bolt inside the bracket between the LCR and the bracket, then cut the bolt head off on the outside of the bracket (shock side). It is amazing how a tiny piece of steel left over from the bolt head can hold the LCR in place! Disconnect the LCR from the axle and take it OUTSIDE!!!! Unless of course you want your entire house to have the refreshing scent of BURNING RUBBER .. watch out here comes the wife Run away, run way!!

Next you are going to burn the bolt and the sleeve out of the LCR with a small propane torch. Thanks go to Cebby b/c he let me borrow some of his tools including a gear puller which comes in handy to push the bolt out of the bushing while you are heating it up. Keep tuning the LCR over and alternately apply heat to opposite sides of the bolt. As soon as the bushing catches fire, remove the heat and flip it over. Take your time, unless you're planning on replacing the bushing with a poly one and in that case torch away . Every so often, give the gear puller a turn or two and eventually the whole assembly will get hot enough that the bond between the bushing the sleeve will fail and the sleeve will come out easily. If you rush this process, you are going to sacrifice more of the bushing. A very high end resistance soldering iron might work to heat up the bolt with the least amount of damage to the bushing but I didn't have one.

So now the sleeve is out. The 3/4" I.D. stainless steel tube I described earlier in this thread has a smaller O.D. (less than 1/16" smaller overall) but the I.D. works perfectly with the OEM replacement bolt. Cut the new sleeve to 1-3/4" and you're ready to put everything back together. I'll edit some pics in here later.
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Old Apr 28, 2005 | 08:39 PM
  #42  
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So where's the pics?
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Old Apr 28, 2005 | 09:33 PM
  #43  
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Here's a couple of shots of Bill's 4Runner on 33's with BJ Spacers up front and Cruiser Coils out back.







They stick out a little...
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Old Apr 28, 2005 | 10:05 PM
  #44  
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Looks good. With any luck I'll have mine all installed within a week. How much higher is the back?
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Old Apr 28, 2005 | 10:13 PM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by Robinhood150
How much higher is the back?
Alot. But you have a nice heavy bumper. Bill sort of has a....well.....kind of a part of a stock bumper...
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Old Apr 29, 2005 | 10:15 AM
  #46  
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Thanks for posting the pics Mike.

39" from ground to bottom of chrome fender trim piece in the front.
40" from ground to bottom of rear wheel arch (no chrome trim on the back).

When you look at the 4Runner dead on from the side, it sure as heck looks like there is more difference than 1". And if you subtract the added dimension of the chrome molding on the front it may be more like only 3/4".

I need to send Mike the pics of the LCR removal so he can post those too.
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Old Apr 29, 2005 | 10:27 AM
  #47  
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Well, the fenders aren't at the same height anyway so that's not a good measurement. Try measuring the frame or body lines.
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Old Apr 29, 2005 | 07:12 PM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by Robinhood150
Well, the fenders aren't at the same height anyway so that's not a good measurement. Try measuring the frame or body lines.
He doesn't have a body lift on though...yet.
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Old Apr 29, 2005 | 09:46 PM
  #49  
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No, that doesn't have anything to do with a BL. The front and read fenders aren't cut at the same height...the fronts are higher than the rear. That just adds to the look of a saggy butt. So he's got to measure from better reference points like the flat part of the frame or the groove in the sheetmetal that runs from the front to the rear.
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Old May 4, 2005 | 08:07 AM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by Robinhood150
he's got to measure from better reference points like the flat part of the frame or the groove in the sheetmetal that runs from the front to the rear.
OK here are the measurements from ground to the bottom of the pinch weld below the rocker panel the runs between the wheel wells.

Front = 22 1/4"
Rear = 24 7/8"

Just about 2 1/2" difference. Now THAT'S what I'm talking about!!

Time for that Stage 2 balljoint spacer mod I heard some rumor about.
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Old Jan 30, 2006 | 07:14 AM
  #51  
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Just an update on this. The Energy suspension bushings 8.1704 for the trac bar comes with the meetal sleeve so there is no need to cut a new one. I just recieved mine in today and was pretty surprised to see it in there.
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Old Jan 30, 2006 | 12:15 PM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by cootees
Just an update on this. The Energy suspension bushings 8.1704 for the trac bar comes with the meetal sleeve so there is no need to cut a new one. I just recieved mine in today and was pretty surprised to see it in there.
I considered those as an option when I started this project but I was told the bushing didn't come with a metal sleeve .
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Old Jan 30, 2006 | 06:41 PM
  #53  
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Yeah, I ordered it affter reading this post thinking I was going to haev to fab up something but to my surprise I did not.
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