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Can't remove bolt from lateral conrol rod!

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Old Feb 9, 2005 | 10:06 AM
  #21  
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Did you get your bolt from Davis yet?

Let me yank mine out and measure it....oh, that's right - that's the problem.... :pat:
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Old Feb 9, 2005 | 10:42 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by Cebby
Did you get your bolt from Davis yet?

Let me yank mine out and measure it....oh, that's right - that's the problem.... :pat:
Smart

16mm bolt (says Toyota) my measurement 5/8" =0.625". Needs about a 1" long sleeve.

McMaster Carr p.101 Type 316L stainless steel seamless tubing. 3/4" O.D., 0.63" I.D. $16.90/ft.

What page did you see metric on?

Last edited by PAhydrohead; Feb 9, 2005 at 03:39 PM.
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Old Feb 9, 2005 | 03:34 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by Doc279
Hey Pahydorhead,

What are you going to do with the Downey Coils - I have a friend who needs them. Give me a price.
I have one other person in line ahead of you. If he doesn't take them I'll let you know.
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Old Feb 9, 2005 | 04:34 PM
  #24  
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Bottom of 105.

$2.25/inch though....
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Old Feb 11, 2005 | 06:56 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by Cebby
Bottom of 105.

$2.25/inch though....
Ever watch monster garage? FREEBIE!!! FREEBIE!!! FREEBIE!!

No, its not a new set of custom CNC machined aluminum rims, but after lunch I should have in my possession 6" of 3/4" O.D, .049 wall stainless steel tubing Hopefully, it will make the perfect replacement sleeve for the LCR bushing.
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Old Feb 11, 2005 | 07:17 AM
  #26  
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Nice! By my figurin'...

16mm bolt shaft = .6299212"

Pipe ID = .654" (.75-.049-.049)

Slop = .0240788" a little over 1/64th. (1/64th = .015625")

I hope the wall size consistent throughout!!
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Old Feb 11, 2005 | 02:26 PM
  #27  
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OK, the new 3/4" O.D. sleeve fits PERFECTLY!!! So, barring some other unforseen problem, I should be able to get the panhard drop bracket on this weekend and also install the Cruiser coils.

The panhard drop bracket comes with a new 5/8" bolt. I am planning on using this bolt in the upper hole to connect the drop bracket to the factory bracket and a new factory bolt in the lower hole to connect the lateral control rod (I had to buy a new bolt b/c I'm cutting the old one out with a grinder). The Toyota bolt has a tab on it that keeps it from spinning around when you torque it to 110 ft lbs.

Is there any reason to swap the bolts and put them in the opposite locations that I have just mentioned ??
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Old Feb 11, 2005 | 02:54 PM
  #28  
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That is AWESOME news!!! I'd use the Toy bolt through the sleeve.
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Old Feb 12, 2005 | 07:11 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by PAhydrohead
So, barring some other unforseen problem, I should be able to get the panhard drop bracket on this weekend and also install the Cruiser coils.
I guess I jinxed myself The wife was every two hours last night and doesn't feel much better today. I have to keep the boys from bothering her and that doesn't work very well when I'm working under the truck in the garage!
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Old Feb 12, 2005 | 07:21 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by PAhydrohead
I guess I jinxed myself The wife was every two hours last night and doesn't feel much better today. I have to keep the boys from bothering her and that doesn't work very well when I'm working under the truck in the garage!
Oh MAN! That sucks!!! Hope she's feeling better.

I wanted to change the diff oil in the JGC this morning and I couldn't because my wife was "sleeping in" and I had to preside over the zoo. Where's that Nanny when you need her?
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Old Feb 12, 2005 | 07:19 PM
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Man....sorry I didn't see this earlier. I did the cruiser coils and a procomp drop bracket on my runner. I didn't have any rust issues, but could've let you in on the bolt size. Could you not put your coils on without taking the lateral bar off?
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Old Feb 14, 2005 | 04:33 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by AW1090
Man....sorry I didn't see this earlier. I did the cruiser coils and a procomp drop bracket on my runner. I didn't have any rust issues, but could've let you in on the bolt size. Could you not put your coils on without taking the lateral bar off?
I might have been able to but I think the lateral control arm limits the amount the rear axle will drop down away from the body. I followed the shop manual instructions for removing the rear springs and had everything disconnected except the l.c.r, with jackstands under the frame and NOTHING supporting the rear axle, the downey HD springs were still firmly in contact with the body. I tried supporting the passenger's side of the axle with a jackstand and wedging a bottle jack in between the body and the axle on the drivers side to drop the drivers side of the axle down towards the floor but I still needed a spring compressor to get the Downey coil small enough to come out.

So you can imagine how tight it would have been trying to get cruiser coils IN.

Anyway, I don't want to get the Cruiser coils in and then not be able to install the panhard drop bracket and I think disconnecting the l.c.r. is the key factor in both of these objectives.
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Old Feb 14, 2005 | 05:34 PM
  #33  
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Any progress?
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Old Feb 15, 2005 | 04:52 AM
  #34  
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I'm not saying anything (read my post two before this one). I'm trying to get it done ASAP
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Old Feb 26, 2005 | 10:09 AM
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Any luck?
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Old Feb 26, 2005 | 06:36 PM
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Hopefully I'll get a shot at it tomorrow.
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Old Mar 4, 2005 | 11:06 PM
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Well? We're waiting...
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Old Mar 5, 2005 | 05:28 AM
  #38  
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I talked to Bill a couple of days ago - he said he was taking a crack at it this weekend...
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Old Mar 5, 2005 | 05:14 PM
  #39  
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Whats the good word?
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Old Mar 5, 2005 | 11:14 PM
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Sorry that you're having such a hard time with this. Living in the rust free belt does have it's benifits....I guess.
anyway, if you loosen the upper links, the coils will drop out easily...but you might have the same problem with rust though.....
It helps to have two jacks one for under the diff of the axle, one on the sides to lift the opposite side when you put things back together.
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