Can't remove bolt from lateral conrol rod!
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Can't remove bolt from lateral conrol rod!
I'm in the middle of installing Cruise coils but I can't get the bolt to come out of the lateral control rod !
The frame is supported by jack stands, I have a floor jack under the diff, the shocks are off, the rear anti-sway bar is disconnected, and I have beat the ˟˟˟˟˟ out of the bolt with no luck. I tried dropping the diff down with the floor jack, still no luck. Do I need to drop the diff or lift it up to put the least amount of stress on the bolt? I have Downey HD springs in there now if that makes a difference . Maybe if I can get the springs out first, I can remove all the tension from the rod HELP!
The frame is supported by jack stands, I have a floor jack under the diff, the shocks are off, the rear anti-sway bar is disconnected, and I have beat the ˟˟˟˟˟ out of the bolt with no luck. I tried dropping the diff down with the floor jack, still no luck. Do I need to drop the diff or lift it up to put the least amount of stress on the bolt? I have Downey HD springs in there now if that makes a difference . Maybe if I can get the springs out first, I can remove all the tension from the rod HELP!
#2
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Bill - I can only guess that pulling the springs would help. Do you have a FSM? I'll go check mine to see if it has any words of wisdom. Will call you if I find anything.
#3
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Did you unscrew the bolt and can't remove it, or can you not budge it? Did you use the impact wrench on it?
The FSM shows the frame on jack stands and a floorjack under the diff. It says to remove the two bolts and disconnect the shackel bracket from the lateral contol rod (this is on the axle on the driver's side) It then just says "remove the bolt and nut holding the LCR to the frame and disconnect the LCR.
When re installing it says torque to 101 ft lbs. Maybe the last tech gorilla'd it on? Has it even been off? Is this the one you told me about that gave you problems before?
The FSM shows the frame on jack stands and a floorjack under the diff. It says to remove the two bolts and disconnect the shackel bracket from the lateral contol rod (this is on the axle on the driver's side) It then just says "remove the bolt and nut holding the LCR to the frame and disconnect the LCR.
When re installing it says torque to 101 ft lbs. Maybe the last tech gorilla'd it on? Has it even been off? Is this the one you told me about that gave you problems before?
#4
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FYI - The drawings in the FSM shows the springs "in" the vehicle. The diagram shows a little "keeper" on the bolt head side. Have you rotated this free of the frame?
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Originally Posted by Cebby
FYI - The drawings in the FSM shows the springs "in" the vehicle. The diagram shows a little "keeper" on the bolt head side. Have you rotated this free of the frame?
The nut came off no problem, I just can't drive the bolt out of the center of the end link of the control rod. I have the FSM and I'm following the instructions to the T, as you can tell it doesn't give you any hints. The "keeper" is on the opposite end of the bolt that I'm wailing on, so it doesn't have any effect on driving the bolt out. I'll try the air hammer feature of the impact wrench with the nut on the end of the bolt so I don't mash the threads like you did with the front axle .
I don't think this bolt has ever been removed.
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Foiled again! At the moment, I can't get the upper brake line fitting apart b/c the wrench flats on the fitting on the end of the hard line are rounding off. Bolt in the lateral control rod is still stuck in there. Can't put the Cruiser coils on if I can't remedy either of the above problems.
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Originally Posted by s_wall98
Any luck yet?
Flyg PMed me about the bolt and said his was rusted in too. Had to cut it out with a sawsall. So that is what I'm gonna try next.
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Update:
I beat on the bolt for about an hour with a hand sledge and I thought I was making progress....that was until I noticed that I was driving the sleeve of the lateral control rod (LCR) into the back side of the factory panhard bracket which was bending the metal towards the front of the truck. The bolt WASN'T coming out of the sleeve as I thought!
So now I'm going to have to cut the bolt out like Flygtenstein did. Then I'm going to torch the bolt out of the sleeve which will most likely destroy the bushing. Hopefully, it is possible to buy a new bushing/sleeve from the dealer.
I beat on the bolt for about an hour with a hand sledge and I thought I was making progress....that was until I noticed that I was driving the sleeve of the lateral control rod (LCR) into the back side of the factory panhard bracket which was bending the metal towards the front of the truck. The bolt WASN'T coming out of the sleeve as I thought!
So now I'm going to have to cut the bolt out like Flygtenstein did. Then I'm going to torch the bolt out of the sleeve which will most likely destroy the bushing. Hopefully, it is possible to buy a new bushing/sleeve from the dealer.
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Originally Posted by s_wall98
Well, its looking like if I ever do get around to doing this install, I'll have something to look forward to.
Any more luck?
Any more luck?
1) cut the bolt on both sides of the LCR with a sawzall and remove the LCR. Then try to remove the bolt from the sleeve by heating it up with a torch.
2) try to heat up the seized bolt with the torch and drive it out of the sleeve while the LCR is still on the truck.
Either way, I want to have a spare LCR on hand so if I destroy the bushing I can put the spare on and still drive the truck to work the next day.
#13
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Bill - I had a thought....apparently a good one:
From Energy Suspension's website:
1990-95 4Runner
Rear Track Arm Bushing Only
P/N: 8.7104
The LCR = Panhard = Track Arm (?)
From Energy Suspension's website:
1990-95 4Runner
Rear Track Arm Bushing Only
P/N: 8.7104
The LCR = Panhard = Track Arm (?)
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Originally Posted by Cebby
Bill - I had a thought....apparently a good one:
From Energy Suspension's website:
1990-95 4Runner
Rear Track Arm Bushing Only
P/N: 8.7104
The LCR = Panhard = Track Arm (?)
From Energy Suspension's website:
1990-95 4Runner
Rear Track Arm Bushing Only
P/N: 8.7104
The LCR = Panhard = Track Arm (?)
#16
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Bill - I didn't get a call this morning from the yard "All Import Salvage" near Springdale. So I stopped out there and the guy i talked to yesterday wasn't in. Maybe try Wagners in Zelienople?
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Originally Posted by Cebby
Bill - I didn't get a call this morning from the yard "All Import Salvage" near Springdale. So I stopped out there and the guy i talked to yesterday wasn't in. Maybe try Wagners in Zelienople?
I called about the Energeny Suspension bushings for the LCR and the first thing the guy told me was "you have to torch out the old bushing because the bolt will be rusted into the sleeve". This was before I even told him where I lived and they are in CA so the siezed bolt thing must happen to everyone. The bushing kit comes with bushings for both ends of the LCR BUT, the one on the panhard side is designed to work with the factory sleeve which of course is now morphed metallugically into something that looks like a grade 8 bolt So if I destroy the sleeve trying to get it off the bolt, now I'm back to where I started
I'm still surprised more people haven't chimed in saying that they had the same problem. Come on guys, somebody has to have an easy solution!
Anyway, I'll call Wagner and see if they have a used LCR.
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Originally Posted by PAhydrohead
Figures,
I called about the Energeny Suspension bushings for the LCR and the first thing the guy told me was "you have to torch out the old bushing because the bolt will be rusted into the sleeve". This was before I even told him where I lived and they are in CA so the siezed bolt thing must happen to everyone. The bushing kit comes with bushings for both ends of the LCR BUT, the one on the panhard side is designed to work with the factory sleeve which of course is now morphed metallugically into something that looks like a grade 8 bolt So if I destroy the sleeve trying to get it off the bolt, now I'm back to where I started
I'm still surprised more people haven't chimed in saying that they had the same problem. Come on guys, somebody has to have an easy solution!
Anyway, I'll call Wagner and see if they have a used LCR.
I called about the Energeny Suspension bushings for the LCR and the first thing the guy told me was "you have to torch out the old bushing because the bolt will be rusted into the sleeve". This was before I even told him where I lived and they are in CA so the siezed bolt thing must happen to everyone. The bushing kit comes with bushings for both ends of the LCR BUT, the one on the panhard side is designed to work with the factory sleeve which of course is now morphed metallugically into something that looks like a grade 8 bolt So if I destroy the sleeve trying to get it off the bolt, now I'm back to where I started
I'm still surprised more people haven't chimed in saying that they had the same problem. Come on guys, somebody has to have an easy solution!
Anyway, I'll call Wagner and see if they have a used LCR.
What are you going to do with the Downey Coils - I have a friend who needs them. Give me a price.
#19
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Originally Posted by PAhydrohead
So if I destroy the sleeve trying to get it off the bolt, now I'm back to where I started
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Originally Posted by Cebby
Bill, As long as we can get the sizing of the sleeve, there is no reason we can't make one. All the sleeve is is a piece of DOM. I saw seamless metric sized stainless tube on McMaster Carr the other day when I was researching another "project"