Finally got the replacing the front main seal on my 90' 22re. Oil pump gasket was also needing replacement. I noticed a pretty big wear line on the crank pulley though. I did get the updated seal from Toyota (thinner). Do you guys think it will clear this line? Do I need a speedy sleeve? Did the old sleeve cause this or do you think a little piece of dirt got in there?

 

That looks like a "mark" line
I've had a GROOVE!

Use a new thin seal and re-install!

Newer "thin" seal will make a new line on fresh metal.
Or - if you are like me and have 360K on the motor - you can buy a NEW pulley - 22RE Performance has em

I've used a speedy seal.
22RE Performance and others scream about em - but I've one w/o leaks (but - as per above - I just put a new pulley in)

Be glad you are not me
Under that speedy seal are TWO grooves.... so I've done this a few times

 

Awesome! One less thing to buy now.

But whats the difference between a mark and groove line? With mine I can almost get my finger nail in there.

 

MARK = "almost" get a finger nail in there
GROOVE = finger nail goes in and gets ripped off when you keep dragging yer finger!

 

Use the new "thin" OEM seal
It will seat on "fresh" metal

You'll be fine for at least as long as the first one lasted

 

Sweet thanks guys!

Also noticed this on the other side. What could have caused this? Am I good to just file it out? It's mushroomed in a little bit.

 

If I had to guess - some one hit it with a hammer trying to get it apart (theres another wheel on front of it if I recall - for PS or AC - I forget which).
Thats the side that faces towards the radiator - correct?

I would for sure grind off the mushroom part (Dremel would be my tool)

 

To me, that looks like the side toward the engine (away from the radiator). It could have been caused by debris (very hard sand?) trapped between the crank and balancer, which was crushed when the crank bolt was tightened.

Did I say tightened? What could also have caused that is an insufficiently tightened crank bolt. The spec (for the 22re) is 116 ft-lbs, and yet you can find any number of YouTube "professional mechanics" who just tighten it with their every-day impact wrench and call it good. (Why? Because they were "clever" enough to use the "starter method" to remove the bolt, and they have no way to keep the crank from turning when it comes time to put the crank bolt back!) If the balancer was working in and out on the crank, that's the damage I would expect.

Examine the face of the crankshaft. If it looks no worse than the balancer, I'd say carefully file it out and use it. And by "use it," I mean use your torque wrench when you put it back. (Yes, you'll need a crank-holding tool. You should have made one when you took the bolt out in the first place.)