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I have used Engine Builders, OEM and they have been great when I first started working on the 22 motor. Now I get my kits from a local machine shop. I cant think of the name right off but I personally feel most brands are good. It is making sure the rebuild is done correctly in my opinion. Make sure the head is surfaced at a shop.
When I got my '84, (in 2010) it needed a head set and timing chain. I got what the local parts store had (FelPro IIRC, not sure now) and wasn't really planning on keeping it long. It is still running strong and I haven't had any problems with anything related to the head set or timing chain.
My 2-cents. To me what is more important is taking the time to do the job right and preping the surfaces that will have a gasket going on them. It may take a bit longer but 95% of the time I don't have to go back into the repair. Hope it works out for ya.
Fel-pro, ITM, Victor Reinz, pretty much any over the counter gasket at an auto parts store works fine if your head isn't warped and it's installed properly on a stock enough engine. If you go high compression or boost it you're playing a whole new game.
Well I just got my LCE head gasket yesterday, along with double row timing chain, Weber 32/36, and other fun stuff.
Since I got it all apart I'm cleaning engine bay of 30 some odd years of crud.
Should get it together in a couple of weeks.
Thanks.
I 100% back the builders that also recommend using new head bolts and running a tap or thread chaser into the block holes to clean them out. Don't skip this, or it won't really matter what brand head gasket you used. I learned from experience.
I don't recall exactly where I read it, maybe Engnbldr or 22Re, but one recommended using an old head bolt and cutting a vertical groove in it worked best for a thread chaser. I read that after I bought a tap at Ace, which I used.
I don't recall exactly where I read it, maybe Engnbldr or 22Re, but one recommended using an old head bolt and cutting a vertical groove in it worked best for a thread chaser. I read that after I bought a tap at Ace, which I used.
I think they must have recommended running a die over the threads if you do this, otherwise it seems like all the burrs at the edge of every thread would destroy the head threads.
I used a cut-off disk on a dremel. The steel is 10.9 grade so the burrs snapped of easily and cleanly with a fine triangle file. Here's the result after maybe spending 10 minutes and $0. I got the best results by threading in gradually and then spraying the chaser with carb cleaner. Repeat until it bottoms out smoothly and is 100% clean.
I used a cut-off disk on a dremel. The steel is 10.9 grade so the burrs snapped of easily and cleanly with a fine triangle file. Here's the result after maybe spending 10 minutes and $0. I got the best results by threading in gradually and then spraying the chaser with carb cleaner. Repeat until it bottoms out smoothly and is 100% clean.
Nice! Good to know.
Originally Posted by L5wolvesf
Be sure to run a magnet down the hole to pick up any metal slivers that may have dropped down the hole.
Shavings fall to the bottom after chasing, don't matter down there. Running a magnet up and down would increase chances of redepositing them in the threads if anything.
Apr 19, 2017 | 12:01 AM
