Did a coolant flush and I noticed coolant leaking from this part. Not exactly sure what this part is but there is a wire (sensor maybe?) going to the top of it. This is on a 22re in a 90' 4runner.



View from the top showing the wire.




Anyway I started tightening one of the bolts because it was kinda loose. Onto the next one and it feels like it's only finger tight. Went ahead with a ratchet and it sheared right off. Any tips on what to do next? How do I get this thing out now? It's pretty tight down there. With the oil filer and oil pressure sensor removed there's a lot more space but still pretty tight. I'm hoping a new gasket will stop the leak all together. From what I see it's not leaking anywhere else and my oil does not have any signs of coolant in it.

Should I just leave it as it is and throw in some sort of sealant into the cooling system and hope that stops the leak?

 

Tight spot. To get at it better you'll need to pull the upper then lower intake. If there is enough bolt sticking out of lower intake you may be able to grip it with vice grips and work it out. If the bolt broke off flush then it's prolly time to source a new lower intake.

FWIW... Always you a thread lubricant on steel bolts going into Aluminum.

 

The broken part isn't sticking out at all. It actually broke maybe 1/8" inside Do you know what that wire is for?

 

Wanna say it is for hot starts so idle kicks up using idle up for AC. Don't quote me though.

 

I don't have an AC button on my dash so I don't think t could be that.

 

That's the coolant temp sender for the gauge. That coolant pipe has an o-ring that seals it to the lower intake under those two bolts and the pipe runs around the back of the head to one of the heater core hose's, there's also a bracket that holds the pipe to the back of the head with one bolt also. The broken bolt is m6 x1 thread size I believe. You need to remove the lower intake and try to remove the bolt or drill and helicoil.

 

Great vid! I will try that if I can't get it out with an extractor. Just need to find an adapter or something that lets me me crank the reverse drill bits by hand.

 

Was thinking it was the sensor on top of the t-stat housing on 4x4 22re. I stand corrected.

 

Be careful using the extractor, last thing you want is the extractor to snap, have seen it happen many times and they are made out of some tough metal that say "screw u drill bit"

 

On a side note.

If you DO pull the intake manifold
Change the Fuel Filter.
It will be WAY easier with the intake out of the way....

 

Any specific type of thread sealant? I can get some Permatex High Temp thread sealer

 

I think muddpigg said thread LUBRICANT not SEALANT.

I use "cop a slip" - a copper based never seize on most bolt that I want to be able to get apart later.
If thats not available, the standard aluminum based "never seize" is better than dry.

Also, ideally, you chase botth the hole with a TAP and the bolt threads with a DIE

 

sometimes you can get away with drilling a small tap hole into the broken bolt, then use a larger reverse drill bit, at super slow speed, on a hand drill... push hard into it, and the reverse drill bit bites into the edges of the hole.

 

I've been using anti-seize gets everywhere. Have gotten in to the same habit putting it on about every bolt but a must for steel bolts into aluminum. Or steel bicycle seat post into aluminum frame.

Chasing bolt holes with a tap makes life soooo much better. Worth the money.

 

I might use a Tap and Die in a Emergency

For things Like this I have thread chasers to those that don`t know they look almost the same only they don`t remove any more material from the threads

I bought it about 20 years ago,

 

never heard of that.

 

Well no luck with using an extractor. I just don't have the clearance and I can barely see anything.

I was about to start removing the intake when I found this pic.



Looks like I can just unbolt that whole water tube piece. Unless there's no access to get it off without the intake removed.

[QUOTE=854x4;52334872]That's the coolant temp sender for the gauge. That coolant pipe has an o-ring that seals it to the lower intake under those two bolts and the pipe runs around the back of the head to one of the heater core hose's, there's also a bracket that holds the pipe to the back of the head with one bolt also. /QUOTE]

So no gasket and just an o ring?

 

That picture looks like a carb engine and if I'm not mistaken you have a fuel injected motor. They have different intakes. Also yes its just an O-ring and I also put some ultra grey to seal it when I reinstall.

 

Yea I think so too. I do have the EFI. Picked up the chilton manual at the library so hopefully the intake removal goes smoothly.

 

I have removed the upper intake and fuel rail and have so far removed 7 bolts, 1 nut, and that Allen key bolt under the thermostat. Is there anything else holding it on? Not sure if I should be prying it off or not. Don't want to break something else again.

I'll also be cleaning the entire intake, throttle body and injectors while I'm at it. I already put in a new fuel filter a few weeks ago. I got to it pretty easily through the wheel well.

Edit: Found the hidden bolt! Right under the thermostat housing. Lower manifold came right out after I got the wiring harness out of the way.