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The 22re in my 85 4runner just started knocking. Hoping it wasn't the worst case, I tightened the exhaust manifold which was kinda loose and reset the valves to .008 and .012. While I was in there, I noticed the dot on the cam gear was just after 12 o'clock instead of before. Wtf!? The crank pulley mark was at 0 with the dist pointing just barely past cylinder 1 firing order. I removed the gear and turned it back 1 tooth so the dot would be right. Reset the dist so it was on cylinder 1. Rechecked the work, everything looked good. Fired it up, sounded OK but not great. Thinking the valves might be off since resetting the timing, I did that again. Only some were a hair off. Now it runs like garbage!
Went out and bought a timing light and it appears the timing is retarded about 25-30 degrees with diagnostic port jumped! How is it possible I screwed it up this much? Is the chain jumping? The plastic guides look nearly new still. What else could be wrong? Timing covers still on so can't see the crank gear. I'm new to wrenching, but if I have to replace the chain I can do it. The timing kit was from Napa put on about 40k miles ago by my uncle. I'd use Japanese osk this time. Any thoughts? Please help...
Yeah, I think the head was machined to far last rebuild. A buddy of mine gave me one that needs checked at a machinist before I throw it in. Planning to reuse my cam and rocker assembly unless that seems like a bad idea to anyone. Going to pull the trigger on the new timing kit right now. Thanks, skypilot. Any other advice or tips much appreciated.
I would call Delta up in Tacoma WA and get a 260 grind from them. You going in this far you might as well go a little more and send them your rockers & cam. Its cheaper than new by a longshot. I didn't notice any mileage but usually the exhausts are burned. I supply the local machinist with all the parts I want used on the job, saves money since he's not surfing for parts or using cheap knock'off's .
I would call Delta up in Tacoma WA and get a 260 grind from them. You going in this far you might as well go a little more and send them your rockers & cam. Its cheaper than new by a longshot. I didn't notice any mileage but usually the exhausts are burned. I supply the local machinist with all the parts I want used on the job, saves money since he's not surfing for parts or using cheap knock'off's .
Engine mileage is unknown, was rebuilt in '01 put in about 100k mi ago by a shop in Nevada. Called em a few years back but they don't rebuild anymore. Said it probably would've been pulled from a scrapyard rebuilt in house. So it could have anywhere from 150k-250k miles on it, assuming they wouldn't source an engine for a $$$ rebuild ($2400) with over 150k.
Regrinding the cam sounds alright to me, this runner is all street right now with dreams of off-roading in the future.
Gonna check the tps and ecu cause Jim Putney at 22re performance thought it might be an electrical timing problem. He also said the early efi computers had a piece of bad code that could throw the timing way off.
My Forecast brand TPS went bad. There are two idle measurements to take that set it up and mine will read 2 same numbers no matter what. Move it one way and both read infinite, move the other way and both read an equal number of resistance. The measurement you take with it fully closed also wouldn't set right.
Don't buy the cheap tps on Amazon! It doesn't last. The numbers were fine when I put it on there this last winter.
New OEM tps in mail. Once I have it on and calibrated right, it'll be easier to see what's going on in there. I'll probably still change the timing stuff anyway cause that Napa kit doesn't look so good and the chain seems too slack, hard to believe the tensioner's ok.
Got the new tps in, but I've got bigger problems. What I though was the timing chain skipping teeth is more likely the crank pulley separating. The oil seal cover is bent and the entire pulley has a slight wobble. I thought I had a bent crank, but this looks like the culprit. Bolt came off easy thanks to the starter bump method often talked about on yotatech. New pulley on the way, I'll keep posting in case this helps any newbies down the road with similar problems.
Kinda hard to see, but aside from being bent, it's not pressed on straight anymore. There's a raised ridge on the right side that's not on the left.
Nothin like figuring stuff out as you go along. The pulley is still good, just had to tap that oil seal cover back in place. My driver's side guide broke off, which is probably what's making a racket. OSK kit in the mail.
Blurry photo, but that's the guide at the bottom there. My guess is the tensioner was put on too tight or just failed early (40k mi). I'll know soon enough.
Real good question I have no idea, no metal pieces were in there when I pulled the head. I'll be pulling the pistons soon to investigate further. Guessing the cylinder wall won't be pretty. The Fel-pro headgasket of course had failed there was oil and coolant everywhere, including in 4 of the head bolt holes.
Often times when these heads are milled too far it will dramatically throw off the timing. You need an adjustable timing gear to get it back to where it needs to be. With out that gear your going to usually run hot and eat a head gasket no matter the brand. Toyota, engnbldr, felpro, ect. If the head your getting is good then don't mill it. If you do mill it get as little taken off as possible. Depending on cost it might be cheaper to buy a new head vs milling and rebuilding the head.
Engnbldr has good prices on heads FYI. Free shipping in the lower 48. I use his gaskets with no problem. But Toyota gaskets are supposed to be the best.
Often times when these heads are milled too far it will dramatically throw off the timing. You need an adjustable timing gear to get it back to where it needs to be. With out that gear your going to usually run hot and eat a head gasket no matter the brand. Toyota, engnbldr, felpro, ect. If the head your getting is good then don't mill it. If you do mill it get as little taken off as possible. Depending on cost it might be cheaper to buy a new head vs milling and rebuilding the head.
Engnbldr has good prices on heads FYI. Free shipping in the lower 48. I use his gaskets with no problem. But Toyota gaskets are supposed to be the best.
Good luck
I agree with all of this. I always knew something wasn't right but had nothing to compare it to. When I get it up and running I'll finally experience the brutal power of a 22re
I'm going with engnbldr's stock head/cam, headgasket and bolts unless anyone can convince me why I should spend another $50 on the toy gasket. Full parts list will be in my build thread.
Whatever this turns out as will have to be noticeably better than what it was. While I'm waiting on the machine shop, I'm getting everything else sorted out. It'll look stock but very clean and fresh.
Jun 12, 2016 | 02:38 PM
I agree with all of this. I always knew something wasn't right but had nothing to compare it to. When I get it up and running I'll finally experience the brutal power of a 22re
