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86-95 Trucks & 4Runners 2nd/3rd gen pickups, and 1st/2nd gen 4Runners with IFS

I need tips for Hub Rotor Removal! Please!

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Old Mar 25, 2008 | 06:49 AM
  #1  
simpsons721's Avatar
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From: Boulder, Colorado
Red face I need tips for Hub Rotor Removal! Please!

Hi i have a 94 4runner

i read some tips on the site about using a 2x4 and hammer to remove the inner hub

i have taken out all the 6 bolts and just want to get the middle part off of the rotor that has the bearings in it ANY tips

also i heard repacking bearings isnt complicated any tips on this

also do i have to buy a torque wrench to torque bolts if so what size one will work the best and is cost effecient

im currently stuck and am trying to replace my rotor

thanks
Matt
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Old Mar 25, 2008 | 07:56 AM
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From: Philly PA
AFAIK the 2WD was a 4WD with a "plug" where the axle would go.

If I recall - the rotor bolts to the back of the hub.

Yer gonna need the huge hub socket.and a new lock tab.
Also a fish scale (preload)
also a torque wrench


Take off the cover where the manual/auto/drive hub would go on a 4x4.
Have fun with the cone nuts (if the 2WD uses cone nuts - probably not as there is no axle there).

Bend back the tabs on the lock ring.

Then use the huge socket on th hub nut.
Take off the nut and the lock ring.
then take off the other lock nut.

Then pull the hub rotor off.

If you are VERY CLEAN you cna "cheat" and not repack the bearings (BTDT)

Take off the OUTER bearing (it should fall out) and stuff/tape the are so no dirt gets in.
Dont forget the back side.

Turn the hub over and place it into a wheel that is on the ground.

Now undo the 6 bolts that hold the rotor to the hub.
Stand on the tire to keep the hub from spinning.

Pull the hub/rotor off the tire.

Place the rotor edges on some 4x4s and suspend the hub over the middle area.
Use a bock of wood to drive the hub off the rotor.

Now drive the ro
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Old Mar 25, 2008 | 10:03 AM
  #3  
DeathCougar's Avatar
Donny, you're out of your element
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he already has the hub off the spindle.

And the bolts out of the back of the rotor.

Now he just needs to remove the rotor from the hub, and its rusted on.

get a BFH, and beat the hell out of the rotor til it falls off.

If you're replacing it anyways, who cares if you mess up the rotor.
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Old Mar 25, 2008 | 10:13 AM
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simpsons721's Avatar
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From: Boulder, Colorado
thanks death i will try that but what is a bfh im gonna use a hammer also do i need to torque the 6 bolts when reinstalling them with a torque wrench
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Old Mar 25, 2008 | 10:44 AM
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CJM
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From: Central NJ
BFH=Big F Hammer

Beat that sucker out.
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Old Mar 25, 2008 | 10:49 AM
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It has helped me in the past to blast the outer ring where they mate with a MAPP torch, but I always repack bearings and install a new seal, a large amount of heat might torch that seal if you aren't careful. I have also used a hammer and a chisel to separate them before if I didn't plan on saving the rotor.
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Old Mar 25, 2008 | 10:51 AM
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From: St. Loser, Misery
Hit it like it owes you money!
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Old Mar 25, 2008 | 11:05 AM
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simpsons721's Avatar
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From: Boulder, Colorado
Wink

DO i have to buy a torque wrench i can get one for 70

and repack the bearings this sounds too easy does anyone have a link for how this is really dont i was just going to put the stuff in the way it came out and pack it in???? i dont know i need help
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Old Mar 25, 2008 | 11:07 AM
  #9  
Yoda's Avatar
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From: North Bend, WA
Big Fancy Hammer
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Old Mar 25, 2008 | 12:11 PM
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From: NC
Put the rotor in a table vise. Get a real hammer, (NOT a carpentry hammer), and a brass drift of good size and hit outward arount the hub.
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Old Mar 25, 2008 | 01:29 PM
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From: Hopkins, MN
A chisel between the hub and rotor is what I do. No matter what you do, be sure to hit all sides to prevent getting it stuck crooked. It might not hurt to put some anti-seize on the mating parts for next time.
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Old Mar 25, 2008 | 04:53 PM
  #12  
ewong's Avatar
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From: Philly PA
BTW - hit the hub with a wire brush in a grinder... gets the rust outta the way.

Penetrating oil helps.
Kroil, PB Blaster, Liquid Wrench, whatever.

Id heat it slightly (the rotor) with a MAPP torch.

I would still suspend the rotor on some 4x4s and beat the hub with a 5lb sledge and a 2x4 scrap to protect the hub.
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Old Mar 25, 2008 | 05:12 PM
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From: Alexandria, VA
dead blow's make nice hammers for whacking stuff with

you'll want a torque wrench. i started out with a 1/2 "clicker" model from harbor freight and it's still going strong ~8 years later. i use it regularly to torque lug nuts and make sure to back off the spring before storing it.
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Old Mar 25, 2008 | 05:53 PM
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86tuning's Avatar
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From: Vancouver, BC
Originally Posted by DeathCougar
get a BFH, and beat the hell out of the rotor til it falls off.
Use a BFH which is anything over 2# the heavier the better. I use a 3# drilling hammer, or a 4# sledge depending on whether I'm at home or at work.

Clamp the rotor in a bench vise.

Spray the interface with some penetrating lube, PB blaster, Liquid Wrench, whatever.

Get a large chisel (not the woodoworking type, but a cold chisel) and carefully use it like a wedge between the hub and the rotor. Beat it between the hub studs and the rotor, in the gap. Hammer the thing in there, it will seperate the hub from the rotor. Think of putting a door stop wedge under a heavy door. Hammer that thing! Use a 2nd chisel at another spot. Work it around!

When you finally get it apart, clean up all the rust on the hub. Wire brush or wire wheel, or sandpaper.

Consider painting the hub while it's off the truck. Otherwise just smear some anti-seize lube where the hub and rotor meet up.
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