Well I'm looking to buy a JL 10W3 to replace my blown one. I found a few here.
http://www.acaraudio.com/default.php...a&filter_id=14
Which one do I get, I think I remember there being like three of them all the same price. This stuff confuses the hell out of me. And $159.00 doesn't sound that expensive.

P.S. Please don't recommend ebay!

 

The one you get depends on your amp. The only difference between the three is what ohm they are. You can either look at your old one and find out what your old one is. Or you can look at your amp specs and find out at what ohm level it produces the power you want to run it with.

 

whats your amp ? 1 channel or 2 ?

how many ohms is it stable to ?


EDIT: looks I was slow on the post key

 

They have some nice stuff on that site. 4 ohm seems to be the norm for most people when buying a sub.

 

All I know about my amp is it is a Kenwood max. power 200 watts and it's bridgeable. Does this help at all?

 

How in the world did you blow a W3 with a 200 watt amp?

 

It was a W0, I blew two of those. Now I'm wanting to get the W3.

Edit: Well this is what the little guy kinda looks like, except mine says max. power 200 watts.

P.S. If I would have bought the amp I have now I would know what it is, but I got it from a friend about a year ago.

 

I would save your money on the W3. Take the sub back to where you bought it, JL has a warranty on those things, all you have to pay is shipping to send it back and then the store you bought it from should give you a new sub. With 200 watts max, you shouldn't even be blowing W0's. I would crank down the gain on the amp and buy/build a ported box with the right airspace recommendations. I have a JL 500/1 monoblock on a single 12W3v2 and with the gain cranked way down and it sounds fine and has a lot of bass with no risk of blowing the sub. I think the W3 is going to be way too much speaker for that amp.

 

Wow, now I'm completely depressed. :cry: All this research for nothing!

EDIT: On a lighter note, I did just save a bunch of money on my car insurance by switching to Geico.

 

is there a model number on the amp ?

what size fuse does it take ? ( we can back calc the likely RMS output from that )

 

It takes a 15A fuse.

 

12w x 15amps = 180watts

180 * .50 (heatloss) = ~90 watts RMS total.

90/2 (channels) = so ~45 watts per channel @ 4ohms

if bridged (depends on manufacture if its capable) and is seeing 4 ohm mono load and you throw in a bigger fuse to keep up, ~135watts RMS



Not exactly a subwoofer amp you got there

Get your sub replaced under warranty and spend the money on a new amp

 

That was Cool

Hymmm Guess Math does come in handy