car audio experts (sub advise)
#1
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car audio experts (sub advise)
ok so my momo's have been repalced 2x and they have been broken in properly etc and never played TOO loud. so im looking for some new subs. i dont wanna spend over 300 for them. i was thinking of going to a set of 15 mtx 8154a's but am not sure yet. my friend has a set of the 12's with a 775 watt amp and they sound great and could almost out bump my old system. what do you guys recomend and what type of box: sealed, vented, ported, or bandpass??
thanks
thanks
Last edited by dexter; 12-03-2003 at 07:10 PM.
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I used to run two 10" kicker solo-barics (old round-style) in a sealed box off of a 300 watt Kenwood xCelon Amp, and that was plenty of sound for the 4Runner... of course I could also rattle the neighbors windows if i wanted. Box type depends on speakers, so pick what kind of speakers you want and go from there. The MTX's are good as long as you stay 6000 series and up, preferably 8000. I've never really been into bandpass boxes, since many people think they shorten the lives of the speakers (pushing against each other constantly).
Good luck and Happy Bumping!
Good luck and Happy Bumping!
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sealed.
becauase when the driver compresses the air inside the box, it has to where to go.
so that acts as a suspension (actually, it is called acoustic suspenion) so you have some protection from over excusion.
but then again, going the other way doesnt do anything.
but sealed boxes are the easiest to make. will offer the smoothest roll off, instead of a sharp drop.
i'm curious how you are are blowing up your subs.
UNDERpowering a sub is like overpowering a tweeter.
becauase when the driver compresses the air inside the box, it has to where to go.
so that acts as a suspension (actually, it is called acoustic suspenion) so you have some protection from over excusion.
but then again, going the other way doesnt do anything.
but sealed boxes are the easiest to make. will offer the smoothest roll off, instead of a sharp drop.
i'm curious how you are are blowing up your subs.
UNDERpowering a sub is like overpowering a tweeter.
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um they are 500 watts rms each and my amp runs 1200 watts rms i havnt hooked up the other bp1200.1 b/c its on loan to a friend. the first sub the voice coil pulled apart and i still have it. the second one got this weird tick in it and it sounds real ˟˟˟˟ty. the third one (and the newest) is poping and ticking and about to leave the truck. im gonna send all 3 back to polk and try and get 2 new ones and sell em (2 of them are off warrenty and they hooked me up last time) its weird i have freinds with some ˟˟˟˟ty subs that they over power/ burp constantly with some mad distortion and they havnt busted in 2-3 years?? maby im just doomed...... so any body got any reasons not to go with the mtx thunder 8000 15's in a sealed or vented box??
#5
Re: car audio experts (sub advise)
Originally posted by dexter
ok so my momo's have been repalced 2x and they have been broken in properly etc and never played TOO loud. so im looking for some new subs. i dont wanna spend over 300 for them. i was thinking of going to a set of 15 mtx 8154a's but am not sure yet. my friend has a set of the 12's with a 775 watt amp and they sound great and could almost out bump my old system. what do you guys recomend and what type of box: sealed, vented, ported, or bandpass??
thanks
ok so my momo's have been repalced 2x and they have been broken in properly etc and never played TOO loud. so im looking for some new subs. i dont wanna spend over 300 for them. i was thinking of going to a set of 15 mtx 8154a's but am not sure yet. my friend has a set of the 12's with a 775 watt amp and they sound great and could almost out bump my old system. what do you guys recomend and what type of box: sealed, vented, ported, or bandpass??
thanks
If you decide to go with 15in subs I have some compition 15in rockford fosgates. They were poboys in his runner I bought. He says they sounded awesome! I have two e-mail me with an offer. jason@demello-offroad.com will consider trades too!
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are you running 2 subs in series or parallel? How many ohms are they? Does that amp put out 1200 watts RMS at 4 ohms? If it does, did you upgrade your altenator? Do you have any other amps? That is a lot of juice for a stock alternator to power. I have a ~275 watt monoblock amp (underrated supposedly) that I used to push a 10" L7 with dual voice coils rated at 600 RMS. With the 2 voice coils, the amp was set to run at 2 ohms and up the power to ~525-550. So I was wondering if your amp is really just putting out 600 RMS at 4 ohms and depending on how you setup your subs, the load they could be seeing might be anywhere from 300-1200 watts wither under or overpowering them. Also maybe when you are setting up, you should turn the gain down put the volume up as high as you think you'll go and then slowly increase the gain until you you hear distortion. That way you should never overload them.
#7
if your amp is properly installed and you have a clean signal and theres nothing wrong with your box (please tell me u dont have a bandpass) then what you need are speakers that actually handle power and arent weak piles of junk---the voice coil falling off is a sure sign of poor design or poor quality control. try something that handles the power--my recommendation is some image dynamics MAX 12's
http://www.imagedynamicsusa.com/webs...cts/IDMAX.html
youd be hard pressed to find a better speaker.
T
http://www.imagedynamicsusa.com/webs...cts/IDMAX.html
youd be hard pressed to find a better speaker.
T
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Originally posted by bool
are you running 2 subs in series or parallel? How many ohms are they? Does that amp put out 1200 watts RMS at 4 ohms? If it does, did you upgrade your altenator? Do you have any other amps? That is a lot of juice for a stock alternator to power. I have a ~275 watt monoblock amp (underrated supposedly) that I used to push a 10" L7 with dual voice coils rated at 600 RMS. With the 2 voice coils, the amp was set to run at 2 ohms and up the power to ~525-550. So I was wondering if your amp is really just putting out 600 RMS at 4 ohms and depending on how you setup your subs, the load they could be seeing might be anywhere from 300-1200 watts wither under or overpowering them. Also maybe when you are setting up, you should turn the gain down put the volume up as high as you think you'll go and then slowly increase the gain until you you hear distortion. That way you should never overload them.
are you running 2 subs in series or parallel? How many ohms are they? Does that amp put out 1200 watts RMS at 4 ohms? If it does, did you upgrade your altenator? Do you have any other amps? That is a lot of juice for a stock alternator to power. I have a ~275 watt monoblock amp (underrated supposedly) that I used to push a 10" L7 with dual voice coils rated at 600 RMS. With the 2 voice coils, the amp was set to run at 2 ohms and up the power to ~525-550. So I was wondering if your amp is really just putting out 600 RMS at 4 ohms and depending on how you setup your subs, the load they could be seeing might be anywhere from 300-1200 watts wither under or overpowering them. Also maybe when you are setting up, you should turn the gain down put the volume up as high as you think you'll go and then slowly increase the gain until you you hear distortion. That way you should never overload them.
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I have 1 new JL audio 12w6 running mono at 2 oms with 1000w on it. It shakes everything and is louder than most speakers out there. My brother had 2 old 12w6 and hit 145db at a competition and was beat by a guy with only 1 JL audio 12w6 who hit 148.1db . I think 12" speakers are ideal if you want it to sound good. 15s and 18s tend to muffle the vocals and high notes. 10s are good but you need 4-6 to match the boom of one 12 Get monster cable or something smimular cause quality matters. If you have an extra $500 then pic you up a JL sub
JL Audio
JL Audio
Last edited by Hyperlite; 12-04-2003 at 12:49 PM.
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Originally posted by Hyperlite
I have 1 new JL audio 12w6 running mono at 2 oms with 1000w on it. It shakes everything and is louder than most speakers out there. My brother had 2 old 12w6 and hit 145db at a competition and was beat by a guy with only 1 JL audio 12w6 who hit 148.1db . I think 12" speakers are ideal if you want it to sound good. 15s and 18s tend to muffle the vocals and high notes. 10s are good but you need 4-6 to match the boom of one 12 Get monster cable or something smimular cause quality matters. If you have an extra $500 then pic you up a JL sub
JL Audio
I have 1 new JL audio 12w6 running mono at 2 oms with 1000w on it. It shakes everything and is louder than most speakers out there. My brother had 2 old 12w6 and hit 145db at a competition and was beat by a guy with only 1 JL audio 12w6 who hit 148.1db . I think 12" speakers are ideal if you want it to sound good. 15s and 18s tend to muffle the vocals and high notes. 10s are good but you need 4-6 to match the boom of one 12 Get monster cable or something smimular cause quality matters. If you have an extra $500 then pic you up a JL sub
JL Audio
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If I had an amp that put out 1200 Watts, that is the sub I would get. If I could figure out a way to do a somewhat stealth install, I would put in a 10W6. No need to shake the neighborhood.
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It may be out of your price range for two of them, but I've got a single 12" Eclipse Aluminum 88120DVC and it friggin rocks. I can't fathom what the Titanium must sound like, but it's quite a bit more than the Aluminum. I believe I paid around $250-$300 for my 12 but it was worth every penny. Mine will handle a cool 500W RMS, with a peak of 1000W. I feed it about 300W continuous.
Matt
Matt
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I still have my L7 in a slot ported box built to kicker dimensions. I just need all the cargo space I can get so it is sitting in my basement along with the rest of my car audio stuff. Anybody looking for car audio stuff?
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