The Fab Shop Tube buggies, armor protection and anything else that requires cutting, welding, or custom fab work

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Old Nov 8, 2007 | 05:35 PM
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killa b's Avatar
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From: phoenix az
tell me what you think.


this is the front side of the plates

this is the back side of the plates

need to know if these look good ive been praticeing for a while and not sure whats good or not yet thanks for the help.
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Old Nov 8, 2007 | 06:11 PM
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Cut the plate apart down the weld with a band saw...and check the pentration and porosity. Your welds should look like a stack of dimes when looking at them perpendicularly. It is hard to tell in those pics because the welds are not close up.

Practice makes better, but only if you are doing it right.

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Old Nov 8, 2007 | 06:25 PM
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From: phoenix az
it doesnt look like dimes stacked together. but does look like <<<<<<< that like v shapes one on top of each other. on the back it stickes out like 32ed of an inch. i did three passes on the top one center and two on the outsides also beveled down.
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Old Nov 8, 2007 | 06:31 PM
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Old Nov 8, 2007 | 06:35 PM
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From: phoenix az
what kind of tenique do you use to get them to look like that thanks
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Old Nov 8, 2007 | 06:36 PM
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Originally Posted by killa b
what kind of tenique do you use to get them to look like that thanks
Circle motion or half circle motion weaving back and forth. That is just a pic I pulled off the net somewhere but that is about how they should look...perhaps a bit tighter and smoother.

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Old Nov 8, 2007 | 06:39 PM
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From: phoenix az
thanks for all of the help. i will give that a try tommorw and see how they turn out thanks for the help
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Old Nov 10, 2007 | 05:16 AM
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From: Mount Pleasant, SC
Originally Posted by killa b
what kind of tenique do you use to get them to look like that thanks
that looks like a TIG weld.

to comment on your weld we will need better pics

also tell us about your setup
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Old Nov 10, 2007 | 08:52 AM
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From: phoenix az
i can try for better pics and those were done with a linclon 220v at work. i have a miller 140 110v at home.
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Old Nov 11, 2007 | 04:05 AM
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From: Mount Pleasant, SC
I will assume solid wire, gas shielded?
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Old Nov 11, 2007 | 08:35 AM
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From: phoenix az
yea soild wire and sheiding gais and flux core on the 110v.
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Old Nov 14, 2007 | 09:20 PM
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I suggest NOT using circular motions with any process not conducive to penetration (SMAW). The reason being that you cannot be certain of penetration [in certain joints] when you're doubling back over cooling metal laid over what should be a bare joint.
Since you're doing SMAW it won't look like what the Wabbit showed. That was TIG on aluminum. Steel and MAG will look different and have different properties and characteristics.
FCAW you can weld drunk while balancing on a basketball and get good penetration (not to be confused with a good WELD as a whole), whereas SMAW you have to use an entirely different technique.

Can you supply a better photo and some stats such as method, machine settings and position?

Your weld doesn't look consistent, which is one of the primary attributes a bead requires. (Not that I'm one to talk, just giving another opinion)
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Old Nov 14, 2007 | 09:28 PM
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From: Bend, OR.
If your welds are making more of a >>>> instead of a dime overlap try adjusting the angle you are holding the tip at, and if your pushing the puddle you might want to slow down a bit
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Old Nov 14, 2007 | 10:45 PM
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From: Sedro Woolley washington
what works best for me is to make "z"s and dip in when im at the far points- for tig... looks good keep practicing it will come to you some days i like "J"s its all personal preferance on how you hold and how fast u go while still geting penitration... keep at it !
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