So does that interface with o2 sensors and an EGT gauge? after all thats the only real way you can see what your fuel tweeks are doing...

 

from post #49. . .


PHR MAP-ECU

The MAP ECU allows you to completely remove the restrictive MAF meter and convert to a more forced induction friendly speed-density system. By doing so, you can improve throttle response, spool-up, and pick up horsepower by tuning the Air/Fuel ratio for optimum performance. The MAP ECU also controls Nitrous systems via a built-in RPM window switch, and can be password protected to prevent tampering. The MAP CAL software allows full control of the engine fuel mapping from 0-8000 RPM and 0-30 psi of boost. The datalogging features are a must-have for any tuner, and the MAP ECU can be connected to the most popular Innovate LM-1, AEM, FJO, and PLX wideband kits. On the Supra TT, we've made over 960 RWHP using 1000cc injectors controlled by the MAP ECU. The PHR MAP-ECU currently powers the AAP/PHR Street Supra in the NHRA Street Tire class to multiple 9-second passes. This is one powerful piggyback EMS, not just your average electronic component! On our dyno using a mildly modified Supra TT as a test sample, we've seen increases of 22 wheel HP by simply removing the stock AFM and converting to speed-density. Get yours today while the "Summer Special" lasts!
Price: $650



so yes you must install a wideband O2 sensor to be able to monitor your A/F in real time, otherwise you are just fumbling around in the dark.

 

If they gained 22 hp on a hotwire MAF Supra TT, then I would expect to gain much more than that on a 7M with its restrictive Karman Vortex AFM.

I'm looking at going maft-pro (www.maftpro.com) on my 7M; same general idea as the MAP ECU.

 

Dropped by the machine shop yesterday, they said all the machining is done and if the main bearings arrive today they will have it ready to pick up tomorrow, if not it will be early next week. Stay tuned. . .

 

Just picked up the engine, man does it look nice now. When i get off work tonight ill try to get some pictures up.

 

Can't wait for the pics.

 

Before




After




Before




After




Balanced bottom end

 

sorry the pics are a little big, i'm at work and cant spend too much time goofing off. . .

I figured out that it wasnt my camera that was dead, its my memory card reader, so i used the one at work this morning.

 

Looking good man!

 

That looks amazing, that's the way to re-build an engine, less mess for you to deal with, and now you know it's right, no reason for it not to run like a champ.

 

Pretty motor.

 

so the machine shop did all the bottom end and head work? did you have the block surfaced or just the head?

new pistions? fancy fordged rods and all that bling or what?

 

the final parts/labor list:

Labor:
-Clean/dipped block
-Deck block
-Bore/hone block
-Line hone mains
-pressure test block
-assembled bottom end
-freeze plug install
-rebush 6 rods
-balance OEM rods
-grind crank
-balance crank


-Clean head
-Resurface head
-24 valve rebuild (gaskets/bushings)
-24 valve adjust


Parts:
-Wiseco Forged Pistons
-Master engine rebuild kit minus pistons and HG (includes EVERY gasket, bearing, belt)
-Cometic MHG
-ARP head studs
-ARP main studs
-ARP rod bolts

Forged rods would have been ANOTHER $1000 that wasnt really important for this setup, if this was going into a SUPRA i would have done forged rods as well since the HP goal would be much larger. The head would have also been ported/polished w/ a 3-angle valve job w/ oversized valves and upgraded valve springs.

 

Aftermarket rods are complete overkill. I have several local friends making over 700 hp rear wheel hp on stock rods and not one of them has considered upgrading.

I wish I had a pic of the stock rods up against a Jeep Cherokee 4.0 High Output rod...the Supra rod makes the Jeep one look like a keychain ornament.

 

the only reason i could see for needing to upgrade the rods would be in conjunction w/ the needed head upgrades and stand-alone electronics to raise the rev limit. You start spinning that thing at 9500+ rpms you would gladly pay the insurance of aftermarket rods to not destroy all the money you dumped into building the motor.

 

Agreed...9500 RPMs on an ultra-high HP long stroke motor; you would want aftermarket rods.

 

i love the sound of the WOT motorsports car when he's staging at the drag strips. bouncing off 10,000 RPMs on a 3.4 stroker, so hot.

 

i would like to state for the record that installing ARP head studs is a PITA

that is all

 

Sissy.

 

Looking good! You seem to be on track to have it done before May.