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hysteer arm build

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Old 11-16-2012, 10:08 AM
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hysteer arm build

ok i have access to a machine shop thats willing to cut for free as long as i supply material and at the current moment i have a sased 95 2wd and when i swapped it i didnt have the money to buy a 4wd ifs steering box or a hysteer kit so i took a sfa steering box plated the frame and made it work. i found a local 22rte truck that has power steering stuff and other assorted parts that i need/want for my truck and he only wants 200 for it
i have the dimensions for the drag link and the tie rod and im fairly skilled in autocad 2012 but i dont have any dimensions for the arms so what i need is the angle of the taper for the cone washers and the tie rod ends, the bolt pattern for the arm where it bolts to the knuckle.
when i get these drawn up in autocad i will post pics and detailed dimensions for anybody who needs them in detailed side, top, front, views and a 3d view for you guys. or other views if you prefer and can send the cad file if preferred.
i dont have access to a set or arms to measure myself so any help is appreciated
Old 11-16-2012, 10:31 AM
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theres all kinds of threads showing peoples hysteer arms but nobody includes dimentions or anything
oh and can you press out the pin for the bearing in the original arm or do i have to make new pins to
Old 11-18-2012, 09:27 PM
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Some arms have the bearing pin machined into it, from what I have seen. I have some TG 4 stud arms sitting in the"shop" since I upgraded to 6-shooter knuckles and arms. To bad your not in Ga... Good luck with the project.
Old 11-19-2012, 01:13 PM
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yeah doesn't seem like there's alot popularity for toyota's around here in topeka a few here and there but not a whole lot sad and they few that you do see dont seem to be that "modified" i guess only two that ive seen one on craigslist and the other i saw today
basically why i rely on people from yotatech

Last edited by Dreidel; 11-19-2012 at 01:15 PM.
Old 11-19-2012, 06:54 PM
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I will be back home prob sat or sun. I don't know exactly what dimensions you're looking for, but I'm glad to measure however you tell me. You will have to do the math for the taper of the cone washer seats....Lol. I can get top of seat diameter, bottom of seat diameter, side length, hole spacing, and whatever else you need. Just let me know.
Old 11-19-2012, 09:57 PM
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rok wanna sell your hysteer arms? and ive wanted a build thread on your truck... just sayin
Old 11-20-2012, 09:51 AM
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i might get a couple sets made and will get rid of them cheap if i do
uhh i think im going to go to the hardware store and buy some standard cone washers that way i save some money as that is a high priority basically the dimentions i would need to know are the diameter or the bolt holes, distance from one edge of the holes front to back, and side to side and the measurements of the entire bearing pin

Last edited by Dreidel; 11-21-2012 at 05:04 AM.
Old 11-28-2012, 04:53 PM
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comon no help would it help if i asked please
Old 02-09-2013, 04:35 PM
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ok so i actually started this Wednesday by having the machine shop at votec machine the trunnion bearing pins for the upper arms, i got some 1 inch flat bar for free so as far as budget is concerned i am right on track sitting at a fantastic 0 dollars so far. i found the dimentions while scanning through the fj40 and 55 section on ih8mud official dimentions for the knuckle bolt pattern are 30mm x 55mm. i have the dimentions for the trunnion bearing pins but they are at the machine shop so i should have them hopefully tuesday or wednesday.
i drilled out the 12mm holes using a rockwell drill press (freaking thing is awesome you can adjust the rpm with just a turn of a huge hard to turn knob and the slowest this thing goes is like 340 rpm and this one doesnt stall like the other drill press in the shop) and 5 different drill bits
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here some drilling action
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not even with a torch bending the 1 inch stuff is HARD!!! took me and another guy 30 minutes to make the first bend. wish i wouldve got pics. using a really small hand sledge hammer sucked it barely moved at all everytime i hit it and i had to bend it at 90 degrees by this time i was truly wore out and again shouldve took pics
the next day i had votec off so i spent till about 1 in the metal shop at school working on this arm so it was time to take it from a 90 degree to the regular s shape of the arm. definatly went about this the wrong way as now i have to redrill the holes because of where i was hitting the bar because caused the 2 hole by the edge to deform, wasnt too happy about that but owell i know now not to do that when i make the other
there is a way to make bending the flat bar way easy. by this time we had three people helping us now 2 with torchs with the rosebud tips heating each side of the bar and me with a 2 foot pipe wench and a 6 foot piece of fence post (being carefull not to heat the fence post since it is galvenized cause it was the only thing reasonable sized we had in the shop) this method made bending the flat bar way to easy and i felt kinda dumb for not thinking it up earlier when this hysteer arm was kicking my ***. so now the general profile is made up and it even has the tilt like its supposed to to make the arm level with the ground (accidently at first because it happened in the beginning stages of the bending but it worked out)
well here is the drivers one
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note: nobody died thats just a painted plastic bag lol
i think im going to have to have the machine shop "deck" the bottom since i messed it up but no big deal
they will be going on this
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the toyota part is going to be backlight in red and axle is going to be black
what do you guys think of the knuckle color
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think im going to do that color scheme on the whole truck if the money ever comes around to paint

Last edited by Dreidel; 02-09-2013 at 04:46 PM.
Old 02-09-2013, 04:58 PM
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whats your opinions on heim joints in the steering if i go this route it will be in double sheer
just wondering because i can get heims for about 12 apiece vs the 30 for the fj80 tre's
so thats 48 for 3/4 in heims plus 2 per piece for high misalligment spacers so thats 56 total for the heims with high misalignment spacers for the drag link and with this i would only have to find a lh 3/4 tap because i already have a rh 3/4
and for the tre's they are 30 apiece thats 120 for the 4 plus the $50 dollar taper reamer that im only going to have to use once
so $170 tre's or $56 heims so what are the pros and cons of both
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