Fillsrunner4 3.4cralwer -pic heavy!
#181
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#182
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Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Idaho Falls, ID
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awesome thanks for the info idayota im in boise at least once a month in the winter for hockey tournaments so i will have to hit those places up. the places here in if town aren't really that good but there is a good one in pocetello can't remember the name of it though but there pretty reasonable with ordering stuff from other yards. sorry fillsrunner4 i didn't mean to get off topic please continue your thread i enjoy it.
#183
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#184
Great build up. I have enjoyed following, and appreciate the tips on some potential snags i would have ran into. I am about to dive into a 3.4 swap and 3 link coil sas myself because my 3VZE finally dumped the HG on top of a spun rod for the last 6 months. Cheers, JB
#185
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Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Edmonton, Alberta
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Phil, are looking for aftermarket seats or are u just trying to find ones that fit?
what is the maximum width u can use. I have got a massive junk yard right behind my house. I was kinda thinking a samuri is an extremely skinny vehicle maybe they would be small enough? send me the demensions and i will go out with tape in hand and have a gander for u if u want?
what is the maximum width u can use. I have got a massive junk yard right behind my house. I was kinda thinking a samuri is an extremely skinny vehicle maybe they would be small enough? send me the demensions and i will go out with tape in hand and have a gander for u if u want?
#186
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Phil, are looking for aftermarket seats or are u just trying to find ones that fit?
what is the maximum width u can use. I have got a massive junk yard right behind my house. I was kinda thinking a samuri is an extremely skinny vehicle maybe they would be small enough? send me the demensions and i will go out with tape in hand and have a gander for u if u want?
what is the maximum width u can use. I have got a massive junk yard right behind my house. I was kinda thinking a samuri is an extremely skinny vehicle maybe they would be small enough? send me the demensions and i will go out with tape in hand and have a gander for u if u want?
Last edited by fillsrunner4; 01-20-2008 at 03:06 PM.
#187
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Just adding a few pics of the tranny tunnel and the new bedliner paint on it. also pics of the rear shock mounts with rear seats in and the space still left in the trunk
Rear shocks
I will eventualy after i install the front seat brakets will paint the entire floor with bedlinder for sound detning including the trunk. I should be looking at some seats this week so hopefully by the end I will have them in
Rear shocks
I will eventualy after i install the front seat brakets will paint the entire floor with bedlinder for sound detning including the trunk. I should be looking at some seats this week so hopefully by the end I will have them in
#188
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Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Edmonton, Alberta
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Will be happening i think after winter. i am just gonna start to get the parts together right now my truck. Unfortunately it is in ontario across the river from detroit behind my father-in-laws barn, and i am now living in alberta. Miss driving it so much. Am getting it shipped out by train at the end of february so am getting excited!!!!! i am thinking i will probably just go with the 4.3 swap and save some money. keep up the good work boss.
#190
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#191
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Will be happening i think after winter. i am just gonna start to get the parts together right now my truck. Unfortunately it is in ontario across the river from detroit behind my father-in-laws barn, and i am now living in alberta. Miss driving it so much. Am getting it shipped out by train at the end of february so am getting excited!!!!! i am thinking i will probably just go with the 4.3 swap and save some money. keep up the good work boss.
Do you have a 5spd? theres some good kits out there for the swap as well as adapters and all youll need for it. Everyone that I know who has it is very pleased with the results.
#192
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I got some seats They are Sparco Sprint 5. They are really comfortable and will fit perfect with the limited space I have in my cab. Im gonna need to order one more seat since Speedware autosports only had one in stock plus I wanted to make sure they fit before I bought two just in case. The guys there were really helpfull and I recomend them for seats and goods. They are located in Redmond. Thanks
Tey are side and bottom mountable so Im gonna need to some brakets this week and get them in. I want to tye the seats into the frame so its gonna take some thought so Ill think about how im gonna do it and be sure to include the pics you all love
Front view
back view over shoulder. you can see the spot for the 5point harness
In the drivers side. they will be raised off the floor some bu they fit perfectly
These are very snug seats. Luckily im a smaller person so it doesnt affect me and actualy feels really good but if your too much bigger than me... I guess you cant ride with me There is always the back i guess
Dimensions if your interested are:
From front to back is 20"
widest spot at bottom of seat is 19"
Widest spot on back portion is 20"
From top of seat cushion to hight of seat is 32.5"
Complete hight is 34"
If theres any dimensions else you want let me know and ill look into it for you
Mounting points on bottom of seat are 11.5 front to back and 14"side to side
Tey are side and bottom mountable so Im gonna need to some brakets this week and get them in. I want to tye the seats into the frame so its gonna take some thought so Ill think about how im gonna do it and be sure to include the pics you all love
Front view
back view over shoulder. you can see the spot for the 5point harness
In the drivers side. they will be raised off the floor some bu they fit perfectly
These are very snug seats. Luckily im a smaller person so it doesnt affect me and actualy feels really good but if your too much bigger than me... I guess you cant ride with me There is always the back i guess
Dimensions if your interested are:
From front to back is 20"
widest spot at bottom of seat is 19"
Widest spot on back portion is 20"
From top of seat cushion to hight of seat is 32.5"
Complete hight is 34"
If theres any dimensions else you want let me know and ill look into it for you
Mounting points on bottom of seat are 11.5 front to back and 14"side to side
#193
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So i got a little more done with my day. I Bondo'd (I didnt use bondo but instead a similar product thats better but i forget the name of it )my old gas tank cap and plan to move it back a few inches that or put it in the trunk. Im not sure exactly how im gonna do it but ill figure it out
Maybe a bit more sanding to do but I wanted to primer it before the end of the night to prevent rusting
A good amount of work should be getting done this week so ill update as soon as I make some more progress so until then
Maybe a bit more sanding to do but I wanted to primer it before the end of the night to prevent rusting
A good amount of work should be getting done this week so ill update as soon as I make some more progress so until then
#195
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Yeah the motor is still having its issues but I just havent been able to get it to the shop to run the better diagnostic scan tool on it. Last I pulled was on the MAF code p0100 and p0110 and it said its either a short or bad MAF or worse bad ECU but I dont think its that extreme. I also blew my old circuit opening relay and my fuel pump relay so i bought a new circuit relay but have yet to get the fuel pump relay. I may try by-passing it. Im looking into buying a trailer because its gonna be a straight trailer rig anyway and that would help me get it to a shop to check it out. Its going
#197
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Not to knock your work or anything but:
It's hard to tell from the pics, but on your rear shock mount, it looks like you basically welded the body to the frame? I don't know if you actually did or not, it just looks like you've got the square tubing coming up (I assume welded to the frame) and over the shock mounts, and then sheet going from the square tube to the body,
I am sure you already know, but the body will flex and twist in relation to the frame, maybe worse because you've got a body lift (I assume because the 3.4 clears your hood?), it probably wont happen until you get into really flexy stuff, but there is a potential for that sheet metal that you welded in there to rip away from the body sheet metal
Oh, and I understand your reasons for using the leather on the transmission tunnel, but be careful how tight you get it around the t-case as that will move a little, and also get hot and burning leather can get stinky
It's hard to tell from the pics, but on your rear shock mount, it looks like you basically welded the body to the frame? I don't know if you actually did or not, it just looks like you've got the square tubing coming up (I assume welded to the frame) and over the shock mounts, and then sheet going from the square tube to the body,
I am sure you already know, but the body will flex and twist in relation to the frame, maybe worse because you've got a body lift (I assume because the 3.4 clears your hood?), it probably wont happen until you get into really flexy stuff, but there is a potential for that sheet metal that you welded in there to rip away from the body sheet metal
Oh, and I understand your reasons for using the leather on the transmission tunnel, but be careful how tight you get it around the t-case as that will move a little, and also get hot and burning leather can get stinky
#198
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Not to knock your work or anything but:
It's hard to tell from the pics, but on your rear shock mount, it looks like you basically welded the body to the frame? I don't know if you actually did or not, it just looks like you've got the square tubing coming up (I assume welded to the frame) and over the shock mounts, and then sheet going from the square tube to the body,
I am sure you already know, but the body will flex and twist in relation to the frame, maybe worse because you've got a body lift (I assume because the 3.4 clears your hood?), it probably wont happen until you get into really flexy stuff, but there is a potential for that sheet metal that you welded in there to rip away from the body sheet metal
Oh, and I understand your reasons for using the leather on the transmission tunnel, but be careful how tight you get it around the t-case as that will move a little, and also get hot and burning leather can get stinky
It's hard to tell from the pics, but on your rear shock mount, it looks like you basically welded the body to the frame? I don't know if you actually did or not, it just looks like you've got the square tubing coming up (I assume welded to the frame) and over the shock mounts, and then sheet going from the square tube to the body,
I am sure you already know, but the body will flex and twist in relation to the frame, maybe worse because you've got a body lift (I assume because the 3.4 clears your hood?), it probably wont happen until you get into really flexy stuff, but there is a potential for that sheet metal that you welded in there to rip away from the body sheet metal
Oh, and I understand your reasons for using the leather on the transmission tunnel, but be careful how tight you get it around the t-case as that will move a little, and also get hot and burning leather can get stinky
The transmission will move but should not move nearly as much as some becuase I have two mounts instead of just one. My buddy uses leather to cover his dual cases and it does smell like it and does get hot but itll be out of the way of peoples hand and all so that should be fine
As for the body welded stuff. The shock mount is welded on the frame both sides and comes up and over to conect both sides together. I am aware of body flexing so Im just going to have to wait and see with that and if it rips away my sheet work.
All good points and yes they have all been considerd but things like this can be a trail and error process so until it fails or shows signs of its weekness I dont see changing at the moment. I appreciate your concern
#199
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#200
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This will be a trailered, trail only rig when complete... right?
I wonder if you could just replace the rubber body bushing with aluminum or equivalent. Would eliminate the body movement in relation to the frame.
I have heard of guys doing this with standard cab pickups. The weight of the 4Runner body may just be to much not to have some give. Your mounts could start tearing away over time.
Just thinking out loud.
I wonder if you could just replace the rubber body bushing with aluminum or equivalent. Would eliminate the body movement in relation to the frame.
I have heard of guys doing this with standard cab pickups. The weight of the 4Runner body may just be to much not to have some give. Your mounts could start tearing away over time.
Just thinking out loud.