Well folks, I have decided to suck it up and put Dana 60s on my 4Runner, front and rear. The set I have chosen is originally from a Dodge. They are currently full width - which is about 9" wider than the current front axle I am running (which is now for sale). I still have a lot of choice to make and I've been researching everything I can find about doing this swap.

Both axles are running 35 spline Moser axles, 4.10 gears and ARB lockers. Both axles have been fully trussed but are set up for a 4 link coil over system. I wish I could convert to a coil over system, but that's out of range at this time.

The front axle is also completely set up for and using a double RAM steering system and hysteer arm are included.

So far it looks like I'll be working with Crash on the front end in particular. We're going to cut 3" from the long side so that can properly mount the perches and line them up with my current spring setup. In order to keep it full width I'd need to outboard the spring perches and shackle mounts - which looks like a real pain!

I'll also have to move the front truss to accomodate leafs, which is a real shame since it's very nicely done right now.

The rear should be easy. New perches, new wheels (8 lug) different yoke on the drive shaft, some brake line adaptors and it's good to go. It'll still be pretty long but I can shorten that later.

The steering is another issue to resolve. I'm kinda leaning toward the full hydro steering with the double ram, even though it's not legal on the street.

I take a serious risk of making this a trailer queen anyway, in which case I go to bead lockers rather than rockcrawler rims.

I'd appreciate any input any of you have on this process. I am still very much in a learning process and am still open to all idea. I should be getting my parts in early December (old parts are for sale).

 

how much did those axles run you? a friend of mine said the dana 60 hi-pinion front he's putting on his jeep would run about 1300 bucks from a junk yard supposedly because the certain type was only on 4x4 chevy duallies or something

that should be some project you're on, fullwidth axles will be great on the trail

 

I'm paying $2800 for the set. Comes with a hysteer set up and RAM steering so I can go either way.

 

Nice buggy!

 

 

Soon those buggy axles will be on my little runner. I'm hoping by Christmas it's all done. I'd LOVE to do the coil overs, but I don't know that I'm quite ready for that plunge... yet!!!

 

I distinctly remember someone saying it's better to do it once - cheaper in the long run - or something like that... I wonder who said that...

 

HEY!!!

 

HAHAHA, that would be me!

I am thinking about the coils. The front is a lot easier than the rear. To do the rear, I'd have to remove the back and tube the frame to get everything to fit. Doing that would be a huge undertaking, and then it would be trailer queen only. I'm not quite prepared for that.

Trust me, I've been kicking that around too - the doing it right thing. I thought I was done already!

 

I have no redemptive tech to add, but I do have some questions.

First, how did Cebby beat me to the do it once remark, darn!

Second, were you breaking Longfields so this is the next reasonable step?

Last, is your gas tank still in the stock location? The way I see, a resolution to that problem would allow a good linked rear, eliminate the rock eating hanger and just make life better. The only relocation I know of on a rig with the rear body in tact involved a 3" bodylift which is not really practical at this point. All the rest just put it between the frame rails since the rear is tubed.

 

How much for the whole buggy?

 

Timing is everything I guess...

Actually, I posted it on your behalf...

 

Correction, I was not and have not broken any Longfields. I've had trouble with the steering arm bolts into the knuckle because the old crossover steering had the drag link hitting the frame at full compression. It took a while to find this problem. I changed to a hysteer which solved this.

A D60 is much, much, stronger than Longfields. The next step up would have been Ford 9" in the rear, which probably would have been enough to take care of the extra stress where needed. The next step after that would have been D44s but I decided to skip to D60s.

The rock eating hangers were gone a long time ago! I switch to leaf springs in the rear about 3 years ago. I do have a 2" body lift. If I didn't take my kids wheeling, I'd bring upper coil mounts up through the floor in the rear, move the gas tank etc. BUT, I do take my kids wheeling and then have a special 3rd row seat in the back, right where the mounts would come up...

 

I don't know what his plans are for the buggy, but I assume that he's putting something else under it.

 

here is my vote..

Keep the front leaf sprung, unless you want a BIG headache, trust me on this gibby....

 

I recall all the problems you guys had getting Lackey's rig just right with his coil overs, although the result was awesome!

I'm not into that major headache yet. I like your plan of shortening the long side of the front about 3" to line up the springs and perches properly, and stay with the springs. I do plan on going with the full hydro steering if you think we can keep keep it pretty road worthy (notice I didn't say road legal).

I wouldn't mind having a decent antiwrap setup though.

Whaddy think f the 39" IROKs????

 

Lackeys rig, that was just dealing with putting a 2" round peg, into a 1" round hole, something you too would have to deal with..

I fully agree, narrow it, but I would also narrow it to 62" (seems to be the magic #) since the short side will have to be knocked loose to do the caster...

As for the full hydro, it all comes down to the ram setup, mine, yesterday, went from naches, to whistlin jacks back up 19 up to serv road 70, full hydro, and was perfect (first time I have done any road stuff to that extent in over year/half I have had the full hydro), but it comes down to how the ram is mounted...

 

I know you can't believe that I'm saying this, but I'll trust your judgement on this. I may have to wait a while to do the rear end shortening so it may be left for a while.

The current mounting looks pretty good and apparently was well tested. Looking at the current setup, I was thinking that I could shorten the current truss where he's got it mounted, keep all the existing bracketry and then reposition the truss a little lower so that it will accomodate the leaf springs. In doing so I can use the same tested steering setup - I hope.

 

OK, so I have 62" as the optimimum WMS to WMS measurement. Would would be the maximum width I could run and still have the perches and such line up right? I'm just researching all my options, pros and cons etc.

What would be the problem be with just cutting it down to making the long side shorter so that the perch can be moved in while using the stock passenger side perch? Is it too wide for the trails, just too much tire sticking out? I'm not sure that I see the problem so please enlighten me.

 

Here is a tech link to shortening a D60 for the Landcruiser. He goes into haow to measure the spring perches.

http://darkwing.uoregon.edu/~jrice/c...D60HD/D60.html

Hmmmmmm, I have a line on a full size Chev PU with a blown up diesel (84) 3/4 ton. Would it have D60's in it? He's asking $250 OBO. Seemed like he would have just given it away to get it off his property (his wife wants it gone NOW)

SM465, NP 208, Warn hubs, BIG 8 lug axles (I don't know how to tell if D60)

If you want to look at it, let me know.