The Fab Shop Tube buggies, armor protection and anything else that requires cutting, welding, or custom fab work

BoB YoUr BED.....

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Old Nov 24, 2008 | 12:31 PM
  #41  
toyminator2000's Avatar
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From: St. Louis, MO
Originally Posted by sh0kk86
what kind of settings would i use on a lincoln 100hd wire fed welder to do the welding of the bob
A or B on the heat and a speed of about 2 or 4 depending on the heat setting. you have to make about a mllion tac welds. can't run a bead or it will warp the metal. I used Lincoln Weld Pak 3200HD 135amp 110v. for my bob.
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Old Nov 24, 2008 | 02:13 PM
  #42  
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From: Lewiston Idaho
I finished my pickup friday morning around 7 am slept all day and went wheeling at 8 pm. Rolled my pickup around 1 am and now its back to my shop for round 2
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Old Nov 25, 2008 | 08:45 AM
  #43  
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From: Sacramento Valley, Ca
Originally Posted by ChickN
scuba..do you know anybody that welds......might not look as great but dude....a buddy of mine got a quote to bob a bed and it was like 700 bucks.....
$700!! That sounds like a pretty good deal actually!!!!!!! And they must not be expecting it to take them very long!!

I would actually consider farming it out for that!

BTW Y'all have some GREAT Looking Rigs!!
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Old Nov 25, 2008 | 02:17 PM
  #44  
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From: Vancouver, WA
is that a good deal???? i had no idea....that is just a lot of money for me to drop on my bed...im way too much of a cheap azz to pay the money! there is nothing new on my truck except fresh bird sh##! hahahaha!!!!
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Old Nov 26, 2008 | 08:54 AM
  #45  
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From: Sacramento Valley, Ca
I'm not disagreeing with that being a lot of money! I feel the same way. But I know that there is quite a bit of time involved with a job like this. Fabricator's make pretty good money. Honestly, I would probably guess that the $700 quote was a low ball. I'm not sure exactly what a Fabricator is making right now, and obviously it varies by neighborhood, but I would venture to guess it is in the relm of $55-70+/hr. For a good Fabricator. Plus materials.
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Old Feb 17, 2009 | 11:17 PM
  #46  
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Hey ChickN, I live in La Center, WA (about 10 minutes north of Vancouver) and I work for Royal Kustoms (a local Hot Rod, Street Rod and Kustom shop) and I've bobbed a bunch of Toyota beds, in fact I took thirteen inches off a '92 yesterday and ALL the body lines line up and the rocker area transition is PREFECT. But anyways, I chop tops, section cars, do lead body filling, chassis fab, build wheelers and all that stuff for a living, but work is a little slower than I like it right now, so if you still need your bed bobbed I'd do it for $300. I'm also VERY close friends with a professional auto painter that cuts outrageous deals for his after-hours work, so I can have your truck looking like it was bobbed from the factory!
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Old Feb 18, 2009 | 08:01 AM
  #47  
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From: Austin, Texas
Maybe ill get serious with this with my new rig and my uncle sam check-ski, Or just put that away for an SAS......
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Old Feb 18, 2009 | 08:08 AM
  #48  
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From: Here in the PNW
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If i spent more time on body work it would look super clean but i knew it would look like this soon enough

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Doing a clean bob job is really easy, just pound the welded spot a tiny bit farther in than the body line and fill the gap with bondo. When i say a tiny bit, i just mean like 1/4 inch or so, just enough.
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Old Feb 18, 2009 | 11:10 AM
  #49  
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That's a tough one Scuba, bob or SAS... that '92 I bobbed the day before yesterday is still IFS, but the way I saw it for this guy was- "as soon as I straight axle it for you it's going to be way more capable, so you're gonna wheel it harder and smash your nice bed (making it harder to bob nicely later) and for now you'll enjoy that extra clearance that will make your truck more capable (cause you won't be stuck on your bumper all the time)" -and he loves it so much that the day after I did his bob (yesterday) he called me and told me he wanted me to do a spring swap and straight axle his rig this weekend!


As for body filler... That's ALOT. A skim coat is all that it should need if it was welded correctly. Pound it in so you can slop a 1/4" of filler over it... no thank you... if there's a slight gap (about the thickness of the sheetmetal) that will give you enough of a root for your weld that you'll have great penatration and it will be pretty flush, so when you knock down the peak of the weld you won't be grinding all of the weld material (and strength) away and then if you choose to put filler on it (a few people that are REAL aggressive wheelers have told me after seeing thier trucks welded up and ground down that they don't want ANY filler, cause the bob looks better than the rest of their truck and it's a waste of time cause give it a month and they'll smash it into a tree, rock, ledge or stump anyways) you only need to buy a quart instead of a GALLON, or you can invite a buddy and trade some beers for a scoop out of his can (if you're only doing one bed)
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Old Mar 10, 2009 | 05:41 PM
  #50  
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From: Waterloo, Ia
Anyone have any good pics of xtra cabs from the side? I see a lot of reg cabs here that look great but the xtra cabs look a bit odd.... I only ask becasue i have an xtra cab and have been debating it for months now because I havent seen a good amount that look decent being bobbed as an xtra cab......
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Old Jul 26, 2010 | 06:57 PM
  #51  
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From: Dixon, Ca
Toyminator, you be dah man.
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Old Jul 26, 2010 | 07:08 PM
  #52  
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From: Dixon, Ca
I know its an old thread, can't help it.
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