If so how are they? I want that profield, axle shaft combo that AP has. My friend keeps telling me to wait till my stuff breaks to replace it. But I'd hate for it to break the first day, on a 350 mile away trail. What do ya'll think?

 

I would rather be wheeling on something that I knew I could beat a little bit and have the stockers as trail spares just in case.

There seems to be no real need to go whole hog to 300M inners with some uberfield if all a person has is 35's and an open diff, but there is also no reason to use stock stuff when you know you wheel hard enough to break it.

Because of this, Profields and some Chromo inners make sense to me, or the Poly Performance 4340 inners and Longfields.

 

lcopelan22

After I busted my first and only birf on a trail at 2:30 AM, I bought Long's as a preventitive measure. Changing birf's on the trail is a PITA! I've wheeled pretty hard since w/ no birf or inner axle failures (there, I put the whammy on myself )

I bought a set of Profield last week- they are much thicker at the bell than the stock birfs, and show obvious sings of heat treatment. I want to get my turning radius back to normal, and the Long's will go in the tool box as spares. I won't swap'm in until it's a bit warmer tho- prolly right before heading to the Hammer's for the Jambo this spring.

later

 

I second this motion!

 

My Profields are doing great, haven't broken yet! Once I get them installed I'll let you know how they hold up to the added stress of not sitting on the workbench.

Exactly!
Dude, you are so cursed now...

 

ive been following these on PBB and it seems the ringless longs and profields have a higher failure rate than the old style longs. some say that the welded ring is where its at, others blame the manufacturer of the birfields that AP and bobby long are buying to apply their treatment process. but then again, there are also smurfields and bellfields, etc.

 

Thats what I want to do is get my turning tadius back. A friend got the smirfields and blew it the first ride. They sent him another one for free and told him it was the after market birfields that he sent them....

 

I third that!! If you have never changed a birf it will suck learning how to do it on the trail!!





Yes, some aftermarket birfs really suck and nothing can be done tomake them better. I had stock birfs smurfed and they are good to go.

 

Yep they say to smurf stock birfs to get good ones....

 

The way I look at it is they made the birfields to just fit in the axle so when you have a stock one do this It is not fun to try and get it back out....

 

Nah.... w/ my 8000+lb rig, I've got birf changing down to about 30 mins... and that's using a torque wrench to properly torque everything too... But, I digress... I'd much rather spend my time wheeling. I'm curious about these Profields... do they make them for the larger 80 series birfs?

And a thought on chromo inners....

I'd rather break an inner and pull it than have a stronger inner break my ring and pinion. Ever try to change an R&P on the trail? Me neither... I'd hate to have to...Just my .02

 

I would not want to change a r&p on the trail but I have seen a blown birfield kill a locker. If your going to kill it you may as well kill it all....

 

Well, me too. But that's why I said If he never changed a birf it would suck learning on the trail.


...and just a side note - many times when an inner goes, the locker goes with it.

 

I've killed two sets of inners, and my ARB hasn't flinched yet... hmm... that worries me even more. I'd rather break a R&P then I would my ARB.

 

I think an ARB might be immune to the breakage since it acts as a spool when locked. The lockers I see go are all automatic lockers so maybe you're fine.

 

Ah ha! I knew there was more than a few reasons I spent all that $$$ on my ARB's... Thanks for all the info... time to call AllPro...

 

Yeah I'd ratehr break a R&P over a locker also. Yeah I really don't know what I'm gonna do with my front axle yet. I haven't figured out what my "Weak Link" is gonna be. What do ya'll think?

 

You're weak link is likely to be your hubs....

Breaking a locker or a R&P in the front has more to do with stupid driving (too much go pedal) than anything else. However, the birfields will break in a tight corner, with stress on the housing, such as going down a hill, jambed up against a rock, etc. This happens ALL THE TIME.

I run the longfields without a problem. ARB in the front has never broken, nor has the R&P. I have the 94 4Runner with the V6 which is heavier than most. I also am running 37" tires which are larger than most.

Let's fact it, Toyota makes a darn strong axle, the R&P is more than strong enough for responsible wheelers and the lockers are better than that. The weak spot is the birf. If you want to create a weak spot, get an aftermarket hub and take off the Aisan hubs. (keep these as your spares.) Even better, make it all strong. If you're breaking Toyota lockers or R&Ps, you need to move up to a stronger drive train or learn how to drive. This is pointed an anyone, just a general statement.

I break stuff, so I'm going to Dana 60s. If you're running an original motor, 35" or smaller tires and drive with some respect - including using your winch when necessary, you simply won't go busting good Toyota parts (except the birfield).

 

I broke 5.29's in the front, but everybody breaks those... it's not due to stupid driving or go pedal... it's not enough material on the pinion.

My rig weighs 8538lbs... weighed it today.... plus it's no stock motor... w/ the TRD S/C and my other mods, it's approaching 323 rwhp on a dyno... And I don't have Aisin hubs... it's fulltime 4wd.

Good advice though... thanks!

 

Ah, I think the no stock motor and the excess weight was the difference there.

With that much HP, the 5.29s are certainly not going to stand up, expecially if you stand on it.

Now you're telling that you have that much HP and you don't use too much go pedal????