I just got done installing my roll cage which I made from two 1st gen 4runner roll bars and about 12' of 2"i.d. pipe. My goal was to make a cage that:

-Is Removable
-Doesn't block Doors, Windows, Etc.
-Doesn't need a pipe bender to make.
- Keeps critical points from collapsing when it rolls, like above the windshield.
-Doesn't weigh too much.

Materials: (2) 1st gen roll bars, 12' of 2"i.d. Pipe, (2) 28"x6" 10ga metal, Hardware.

Everything fit together very well. The angles and sizes from the 1st gen roll bar matches the 3rd gen very well, no bender was needed. I was able to mount the front bar right on top of the body mount so it has good frame support. The rear bar was mounted on top of the wheelwell. I can no longer put down my seats, but I rarely did anyways. The bar can be mounted the other direction so that the seats can be folded down, but the span between the front and rear bars increases, which I was trying to minimize. It also protects the passengers in the rear a little better. Since there is just sheetmetal where the rear bar is mounted I used a piece of 10ga metal to line the entire top of the wheelwell. Now I just need to install padding.

Link to pics incase they done show up...

 

Nice work!

So you just cut up and re-fabbed the same kind of roll bar for the front? How much welding and fabbing is involved in just adding a roll bar to the back?

 

If you notice the bar which goes across the top of the windshield and down is the top of the 1st gen roll bar with the two legs cut off of it the legs which were cut off are then mounted to the floor in the front. If anybody has a pic of a stock 1st gen bar removed I will show which parts go where. Just adding a bar to the back, at least the way I did it involves cutting the front two mounting brackets and rewelding to increase tha angle and the support metal added to the wheelwell, which involved a few bends.

 

Cool!

Here's a picture...sorry its small.

 

This shows where the cuts and welds were made and which pieces are used where.

 

A+ for effort and ingenuity, but your cage is still very weak.

first, your 'a' pillar tubes are horribly weak at those welds.

second, you dont have a 'b' pillar at all, so you have a 4 ft span of tube across the top that is unsupported.

you also have NO TRIANGULATION! that cage will fold up in a hard roll

now, it is your cage, and if you are happy with it, more power to you. just thought i would throw this info out there before everyone started doing this and thinking its a "good" cage.

 

http://www.sonoransteel.com/store_roll_bar.html

 

That next chance I get I was going to add a bar from the weld down to the floor. As far as the span goes some of us looked at it and decided that it isn't needed. The reasoning behind this thought is that the pipe which is running across is 2.5" almost an 1" larger than used in most bars. I agree on the triangulation. The design was not intended to protect in a hard roll, if it was I would go with a lot more lines and directly to the frame. This is intended while rockcrawling when you roll over at 1 MPH. I appreciate the comments.

 

Looks cool! Original thinking.

 

yeah the A pillar welds will probably break and crush your legs if rolled. i would rethink/support those better

and support the rest of it better as well. that probably wouldnt pass any sort of tech at any sort of competition.

 

You don't need a roll cage flopping at 1mph, and in fact you are more likely to bang your head into one of the bars than actually have it help you. Not trying to rain on your parade but without more work that thing will do virtually no good and maybe bad.

 

most all rolls start while driving extremely slow rock crawling...but its where the truck rolls after that, in which the problem lies.

i dont think a roll cage is an area of a vehicle to cut corners on.
its definitely out of the box thinking and a cool idea..and probably better than nothing at all

 

When you roll over at that 1mph, and you're on a hill side, you usually end up picking up momentum if you get into multiple rolls(i've seen it happen). so, by saying a 1mph rollover and saying it is minor, you must be talking about a small flop, i agree with napleon about thhe welds being weak points on the front bars...the proper way to cut and weld tube i(f you need to) is sleeve it

explanation..

at the joining of 2 pieces put a smaller piece(as big as the inner diameter of the tube you're using) and put it inside each piece at least 6" on each side...leave a 1/4" gap between the 2 bigger pieces so you can get some weld on the sleeve to hold it in position...then weld it all up(weld the 2 pieces of cage tube together) and you're done...(obviously the longer the sleeve, the stronger you can make the joining)...

 

the bar is still better than nothing

 

maybe the stock 4runer bar but, the piece i was talking about will just bend, break and may stab someone or collaple on someone and pin them in the truck.

this is to all you "better than nothing guys"
build it right or keep your junk off the road/rocks there's nothing worse than a false thought of saftey as you go over on the top and think "i'm safe the cage will work" and it collapses in and pins someone in or hurts them..do it right or just don't do it at all...

I guess a 9" bodylift to fit some cool 44's on your truck is "better than nothing" also

 

no more comments??? BTW cubuff4runner good idea but, some things just need perfecting(especially when it involves safety)