2nd gen 4 runner 4 link
#21
I don't understand why you have to go up with the bars and isn't this 3-link because there's no panhard?
I built a 4-link in my '80 single cap but I never went over the frame.
Is this for some crazy off-road ability?
Here are some pics of mine, based on a stock 4Runner 4-link system.

I built a 4-link in my '80 single cap but I never went over the frame.
Is this for some crazy off-road ability?
Here are some pics of mine, based on a stock 4Runner 4-link system.

#22
Mr.1KZT: What you have is a non-triangulated 4-link, which requires a panhard bar (making it 4 links and a panhard bar). This is how 2nd gen and later 4Runners come stock.
What the OP is doing is a triangulated 4-link, which triangulates the top two links one way and the bottom two links the other way. This effectively removes all lateral play from the axle which means you don't need a panhard bar.
The reason for triangulating a 4-link is to get rid of the panhard which actually shifts the axle laterally depending on the droop of the axle. With the triangulated links the axle's center will only move vertically with suspension travel.
What the OP is doing is a triangulated 4-link, which triangulates the top two links one way and the bottom two links the other way. This effectively removes all lateral play from the axle which means you don't need a panhard bar.
The reason for triangulating a 4-link is to get rid of the panhard which actually shifts the axle laterally depending on the droop of the axle. With the triangulated links the axle's center will only move vertically with suspension travel.
#23
Mr.1KZT: What you have is a non-triangulated 4-link, which requires a panhard bar (making it 4 links and a panhard bar). This is how 2nd gen and later 4Runners come stock.
What the OP is doing is a triangulated 4-link, which triangulates the top two links one way and the bottom two links the other way. This effectively removes all lateral play from the axle which means you don't need a panhard bar.
The reason for triangulating a 4-link is to get rid of the panhard which actually shifts the axle laterally depending on the droop of the axle. With the triangulated links the axle's center will only move vertically with suspension travel.
What the OP is doing is a triangulated 4-link, which triangulates the top two links one way and the bottom two links the other way. This effectively removes all lateral play from the axle which means you don't need a panhard bar.
The reason for triangulating a 4-link is to get rid of the panhard which actually shifts the axle laterally depending on the droop of the axle. With the triangulated links the axle's center will only move vertically with suspension travel.
#24
Since the panhard acts as a swing arm, the more droop you have the more the axle actually slides towards the passenger side. And as suspension compresses it goes to the driver's side.
At least that's how it works with the pivot point on the passenger side like yours. Would be the other way if the panhard was mounted on the driver's side.
#25
yes, lateral is sideways.
Since the panhard acts as a swing arm, the more droop you have the more the axle actually slides towards the passenger side. And as suspension compresses it goes to the driver's side.
At least that's how it works with the pivot point on the passenger side like yours. Would be the other way if the panhard was mounted on the driver's side.
Since the panhard acts as a swing arm, the more droop you have the more the axle actually slides towards the passenger side. And as suspension compresses it goes to the driver's side.
At least that's how it works with the pivot point on the passenger side like yours. Would be the other way if the panhard was mounted on the driver's side.
But what about the front? I have solid axle and was thinking of some kind a triangle 4-link but it won't fit because of the engine so I was thinking of building a 4-link there just like I built on the rear end. I have been looking under solid axles LC cars and they just have two arms under the axle...but I thought it would be cooler if I put a (non-triangle) 4-link system there. Would that make any sense? Or just be waste of time?
#26
Then I understand you 100%. The trails I will be driving on won't require much droop so I think I will just be fine with my panhard.
But what about the front? I have solid axle and was thinking of some kind a triangle 4-link but it won't fit because of the engine so I was thinking of building a 4-link there just like I built on the rear end. I have been looking under solid axles LC cars and they just have two arms under the axle...but I thought it would be cooler if I put a (non-triangle) 4-link system there. Would that make any sense? Or just be waste of time?
But what about the front? I have solid axle and was thinking of some kind a triangle 4-link but it won't fit because of the engine so I was thinking of building a 4-link there just like I built on the rear end. I have been looking under solid axles LC cars and they just have two arms under the axle...but I thought it would be cooler if I put a (non-triangle) 4-link system there. Would that make any sense? Or just be waste of time?
What I've seen done (and you can buy kits for) are 3-links with a panhard bar.
Two of the links are to locate the axle (the outers), the middle link is to keep it from twisting (basically a torque arm), and the panhard bar keeps it from moving laterally.
Trail-Gear makes a kit here: LINK!
Linking the front suspension is a lot of money though. The coilovers alone will set you back well over a grand. The on-road ride isn't all that great from what I hear either, but if you're linking the front then you're probably not too worried about ride quality.
EDIT: Let me also say that I'm not an expert on linked suspension, especially when it comes to linking the front. I know the math and physics behind it but I've never done it myself (nor will I ever most likely). Hopefully someone else can chime in if you have any detailed questions.
Last edited by NicCantDecide; Jan 2, 2011 at 12:10 PM.
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