BlazeN8

I need to do some in the field testing to see. On paper its calculates out to be plenty strong. The new style is all 1/4" mild steel plate. One of the early ones I made that held up well was also 1/4" but it was a lower grade steel- angle iron from home depot. And the old style width was only 1.5" as opposed to 2" on the new. I like the 3/4" DOM tube design (AKA the Forest Gump looking polio leg brace) and will keep that on the Fordota for now. I think this new style looks better and is more refined. Its not much labor since its all laser cut- no more drilling holes on the angle in the drill press. You should buy one and test it out. Its not like it will weaken anything only add strength. If you bend it send it back and I'll give you a refund.

erock13

If reports look good i will definitely buy one for $40..

BlazeN8

Unfortunately the county graded flat my old Idler Arm destroyer test trail. So the frame twister trail is gone. The county also blocked off the spur trails. Even the dirt road up to the hiking trail head has been graded flat and paved with gravel. I'll probably have to drive fifty miles or more to do any field testing.

Yeah, I said $40 for the brace. USPS Priority Flat rate medium box goes for $11.35 to ship within the USA. CA sales tax was 7.75% which is $3.10 in tax, but I think it went up or will be going up. So your actually looking at $50 something!

BlazeN8

Installed one on my 4 Runner! Went with flat black brush paint. The old one didn't want to come off until I used the right separator tool. Once I got it off I examined it for wear and damage. It was in fairly good shape with a small amount of drag when rotated. It didn't appear bent. The photos I took of the new one were left, right and center position. Note: The bracket overlaying the unit is for the shock hoop attachment (currently not being used)

Tech Tim

My brace showed up last week, thanks Nate!

Just waiting for my SDORI idler arm bushings and it'll be upgrade time! Hopefully the new tricked out idler will last a little longer than the one I just pulled off.

BlazeN8

To keep up with the current trends and request, I bought a Duralast FA5040 and fitted one of my braces to it. I purchased it from Autozone for $35. For that price I wouldn't even bother messing around with retrofitting a used one that may be worn out or bent. And if you are buying something new that price is unbeatable. And you get a lifetime warranty as well.

I also decided to go with FA5040 in response to request for Brass Bushing upgrade options.

In other news I decided to change the "U-bolt" attacment to (4) straight bolts with a double base plates. The U-bolt design held up on a few vehicles over the past year and there were no failures what so ever, but I can see room for improvement by slightly changing the design.

FYI- The U-bolts I sourced from a couple of manufactures didn't have a very high ASTM rating (ASTM = American Society for Testing and Materials) I looked for something with a higher ASTM rating, such as Grade 8, but was unable to find anything in a 1/4" size anywhere.

In conclusion, I think the new design with upgraded hardware and base plate design as a "direct fit" bolt on unit for the Duralast FA5040 should be a very nice affordable solution.

Tech Tim

I got mine on over the weekend, went the new Duralast FA5040 idler with the SDORI bushings from 4Crawler and Nate's brace.

Ready for the next round of thumping, thanks Nate!

yotasavg

Good design Nate, Looks exactly like my downey brace from back in the day. Also still holding up after the past 4 years. Only my bushings wear out, and that's with (unfortunately) jumping the stock suspension with ball joint spacers quite a few times....

That brings me to a new question. With the blazeland kit, is it possible to use upper or lower uniballs?

BlazeN8

Yup, really similar to the Downey, NWOR design!

Most people who use factory BJs w/ long arms don't need uniballs! As long as they keep the working angles of the BJs in check, they don't have issues! You'd be better off ditching the BJ Spacers (6-7" travel) and installing some long arms (11-12" travel). Stay with factory Bump and Droop stops or be sure to set your droop and compression limits in accordance within the capabilities of the BJs.

There are some companies making both upper and lower uniball conversion replacements for the factory design whether its stock length or long arm. Be prepared to spend $800 or more for a set and remember to rebuild them frequently as they are perishable items unlike the factory sealed BJs. Also keep in mind you need to remove the spindle uprights and the LCAs, secure them in a drill press and drill out the tapered holes.

Blazelander2013

yotasavg

Ok, I kind of saw that coming. I have been thru plenty of BJ's before the spacers though, I guess not an unusual amount, but I was hoping to avoid this in the future as well. For a few hundred more than the uniballs and modifications I could just have your kit, which is my end goal. Thanks for the help, now I can replace my worn BJ's and not wish I had gotten uniballs!

uniformFoxtrot

Took the pickup out for a cruise in the woods last night, first time out with the brace everything is holding up great combined with the vato zone idler arm good design Nate very clean looking.

BlazeN8

I have bad news for you all, I think Duralast switched suppliers and is now getting their FA5040 from someplace new. I don't know all the in's and out's of what is going on but I used to go to Autozone and order the FA5040 and get the "Mythical Creature" The last few times I have been getting something else, like so many others have reported.

a

b

The latest idler arm looks different and so does the box. I had an old box (small box) so I compared the two boxes and read the fine print. I noticed the larger box said "Made in China" and the fine print said that it is imported from Mexico. The smaller box didn't say anything about being made in China, just that it was imported from Mexico.

c

d

e

(Its sad the USA can't keep up with the might of China's low cost manufacturing. The imported stuff wins because we all want low prices, but I find it ironic the Mexico is falling behind on this one as well. I live less than 100 miles from the Mexican border and that close proximity should be a leg up on China in terms of shipping cost but its not! What is the deal with NAFTA? (North American Free Trade Agreement) Is it possible the junk we are buying now is imported from China into Mexico, who turns it around and imports to the USA. Seems like some one found a way around the system)

Anyway, enough about that, moving on to something constructive. I know the latest Idler Arm is different as I don't remember the in your face numbers in the casting on the old unit.

f

I popped off the dust cap and removed the nut.

g

h

i

j

The shaft was still tightly held in place by the captured washer so I used a ball joint puller and pressed it off.

k

With the washer removed the shaft slid from the housing. I measered it and it was .700 inches in diameter.
l
I don't have the spec. of the old Duralast FA5040 shaft but I measured a Factory unit I had laying around and it was .700 as well.

Now the moment of truth, will the Blazeland turn key Idler Arm Brace (iAb) fit the new Made in China idler arm?

Nope, it don't fit!

If I wasn't out of the laser cut pieces the Blazeland "iAb-DIY" would be a no brainer to fit onto this unit. Since I have a few turn key iAb units, and I want to get this done today, I decided to cut off the lower tab and relocate it to the correct position. And here it is!

m

Now to re-assemble. Place the brace on top of the captured washer and then tighten the nylock nut. The nut wasn't very tight when I removed it, so it will go back as it was.

n

o

p

And the last check is to bolt the assembly onto the frame and attach the centerlink. All the clearances look good and it is operating correctly.

q

I'll make another fixture for welding and next time I order some laser cutting of 1/4" plate I'll be sure to build a dozen or so units for the Duralast FA5040-Made in China version. Just look for the markings ( IAK2494 L ) and you'll know which one to order.

sphealy

iTrader: (1)

Sucks the parts changed but I'm happy to see you keeping up with the new parts. It's the little things like this that can cause some of huge headaches.

Thanks Blaze

BlazeN8

I built a batch for both........

jakey poo

Nearly a year later, how has the newer FA5040 idler arm held up compared to the older one?

BlazeN8

I sold out the "batch" mentioned above and made a whopping $100 profit, estimated. Oh boy! I give up on trying to explain what fits, how to identify, coordinating the sale, and dealing with the shipping for that kind of money. Please don't be mad if I don't jump all over it to make a sale. I do have twenty of DIY kits in inventory...... but if your a DIY builder you might as well just slap something together on your own.

BlazeN8

I know in the last post I sounded frustrated about this........... but I discovered some inventory. I have the laser cut parts and hardware for another (10) DIY kits.

BlazeN8

I tack welded (4) braces for the new Duralast FA5040 "IAK9424 L" (on the left)

I still have (2) "turn key" braces for the old Duralast FA5040 "L" (on the right)



I'll be finish welding then sending the (4) braces out for powder coat next week. The "IAK 9424 L" unit pictured above was purchase last week at Autozone. From my purchases over the last year and from what I am hearing this is what is currently being produced. Make sure you verify which Unit you have before you order a brace.

clok

iTrader: (2)

BlazeN8

I discontinued the idler arm brace.