Saw these on 4 wheel parts and was wondering if these would work in converting my ADD to manual? Read alot in the search and it looks simple. Was just wondering about these specific hubs. Also did a little reading on the aisins and they seem to be the best for toyota since they came out with them stock on some trucks. Also is there anything I have to disconnect on the ADD system or does everything stay in tact like now? Thanks guys...

 

Do not quote me, but I beleive the Warns must use an adaptor of some sort, while the "factory" Aisin manual hubs are a simple bolt on when you take off the ADD flanges (hubs).

It is a simple bolt on, and there are a few write-ups in the Tech section under Off Road Performance.

I have the Aisins on mine, and you do not need to take off any of the ADD stuff at all.
If you leave the manuals locked in you have "Shift on the fly" just like you did with ADD.

 

Thanks Corey I just read this about the warn premium hubs at the bottom.



When replacing the factory automatic locking hubs with manual hubs, you must also purchase a Spindle Nut Conversion kit except for vehicles equipped with A.D.D.

This is the website: http://my4by.com/product_info.php?cP...roducts_id=162

 

Go with Aisins. I bought a pair (I'm from Spain!) to Jason Liskey and the install was so easy as unscrewing some nuts, remove the solid hub and put the Aisin in their place.

David

PS: I use to use the ADD. When I begin a trail I put the hubs in 'Lock' and then I shift to 4H or 4L when I need to.

 

If you get warn hubs, get the premium's. Warn offers a lifetime warranty on them, I use them and have had no problems.

 

Thats the route I think I'm going. Nothing but good reviews so far.

 

I have had really good luck with the Warn Premium hubs. Installation is very easy too.

Good luck!
Robb

 

 

Just be sure and check the torque on the nuts holding the Warns to the hub body. The Warn hubs do not use cone washers like the Aisins do and are prone to working loose. Not so bad if you have stock gears and an open front diff. But add a crawler box and/or a locker up front and they can work loose in short order. A buddy in my club used to run Warn Preniums on his '89 p/u and got to the point he carried a wrench in the cab and at every trail stop, he hopped out and checked every hub nut, usually 1 or 2 would be loose. He sheared off several sets of bolts and even ruined a hub or two in the process (Warn did replace all of them).

Not all folks experience this problem, but something to keep an eye on.

 

Thanks for the info....will be sure to watch out for that!

 

i went from the stock AUTO hub to aisin manuals, it was an easy bolt on. just make sure it seats on there good or you'll break alot of stuff.

 

part of the my airing down process is getting a wrench out and tightening down the nuts, holding the body.

one dude i knew went to as far as using safety wire on all 6. he converted the studs into bolts. that's how he got safety wire into the heads of each bolt.

 

I'm going to second that you need to watch the nuts on the warn hubs... mine worked themselves loose once. using lock washers or lock nuts might help.

 

What about the self locking nuts with teflon inside of them?

 

I don't see a problem with using them.

 

What happens if you have the electronicly actuated ADD - e.g. the 4wd button on the transfer case shifter? Does the lever on the hubs act as the 4wd engagement switch and then you get to control 4-hi/4-low? That would mean you lose the shift-on-fly capability, right?

 

Lock the hubs and you have normal ADD operation, shift on the fly and all. Unlock the hubs and you have 2WD (only) and the CVs do not rotate as you drive.

 

I just installed my Warn Premium Hubs. It was sooo easy.

My best friend was the silicone gasket maker (stealership was closed) and loctite for the bolts.

It feels so much nicer, or maybe it's the thought that my CVs aren't too stressed from the 3" lift and 33s.

My opinion is that any manual hubs are essential when lifting, but are a good idea with no lift to let your CVs last longer.

 

What did you have to use the gasket maker for? Do the hubs require a gasket?

 

Let's see...

There are supposed to be two gaskets on each side (I think). One between the ADD hub and the body of the Warn Hub and another gasket between the Warn Hub body and the dial (front part). The two biggest concerns (I'm told) are water getting into the hub and the bolts coming loose. Since it was 8:30pm when I started to work on my hubs, only Autozone was open and no paper gaskets. So I went with the messy silicone stuff (not the one found in Pamela Anderson! ). While there I picked up some loctite as well to keep the bolts from running away.

Well, 1.5 hours later, my rig was on all fours with some schweeeet Warn Premium Hubs. I haven't taken it wheeling yet, but it should work with no problem.

FYI, these were used hubs, so I didn't have any gaskets at all. I don't know if newly bought ones come with gaskets. But at half the price ($75), sticky silicone is fine with me...