I just got done rebuilding the front axle, and in both the books I've got it says to repack the knuckle with grease. I think Mark mentioned in a different thread that he doesn't completely fill the knuckle, but just makes sure it is well lubed. Anyone else have experience with this? Seems like a whole lot of grease in order to fill both knuckles. I've got the grease to do it, but I know there wasn't that much in there when I pulled them apart because I cleaned it all out, along with the gear lube that had leaked in there and all the roller bearings from the knuckle bearings I crushed trying to get them apart. I suppose better safe than sorry but thought I would look for input before going ahead. Thanks,

 

It would make since to not completely "pack" the knuckle with grease especially if you plan on replacing a birf. on the trail because I would think it would be a big mess

 

Hi Greg,
I make sure that the birf itself is completely full of synthetic grease before I install it. I run the housing about 1/2 to 3/4 full. Have to leave some room for expansion. I also pack the steer (trunion) bearings with synthetic when assembling them.

 

hmmmmmmm

Greg, your up in the soakin' wet northwest- send some water down our way, would ya?

I'm down in the painfully dry southwest- long, extended water crossings are kinda rare. I don't use 4x4 at speed either- my long travel front shaft vibrates over 20MPH. I can get by without fully greasing the knuckle cavity. I also don't need 4x4 for most FS roads and trails- the rear spool provides enough traction for most situations.

You might want to contact some of the local guys and see what works for them. If water is a problem, more grease is prolly better- but it sure is messy if you break something.

later

 

i fill my knuckles about half full, after making sure the joint is well packed to begin with. I'm switching to a birf eliminator so hopefully i wont ever have to deal with that greasy mess anymore. the brand new model longfields are pretty tempting but you still have to use the grease, and i dont see them being stronger than a birf emilinator with CTMs or at least treated ujoints

 

Thanks guys. I'll squirt a half tube in each side and call it good, just make sure and check them once the break-in is over for the diffs.

Speaking of which, anyone know if it is a problem to use synthetic gear lube for the break in period for new gears and lockers. I'm just thinking that for the break-in you want stuff to wear a bit and fall into place, but the synthetics try to make sure that wear is reduced. Any opinions?

 

its going to break in and wear no matter WHAT sort of lubricant you use, i wouldnt consider that an issue at all

 

That's about what I used.


You still need those shock hoops?

 

I'll probably still need the hoops, but I just got the front axle bolted back in last night, so I'll check it out as-is first and let you know.

 

When I still ran birfields, I hardly used any grease outside the birf itself, maybe a handful or two.

http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri....shtml#Rebuild

 

Might be a silly question, but doesn't the Birfield eliminator make the ring and pinion the weakest link?

 

i don't know about it making the R&P the weakest link, as you're more likely to shear off your hub first. personally, i'd rather go for bobby long's new 30 spline birfields kit. it includes brand new birfields and inners(stock inners are 27 spline where they go into the birfield). they'll run about as much as the birf eliminator kit and should be quite a bit stronger. i think the price is around $630, should be out in a few weeks

he's also coming out with 27 spline chromoly birfields to replace stock ones, and for the guys who already have 300m or chromoly inners