fasterdammit

Hi

I've got a 3rd gen '00 T4R which recently blew its driver's front end link. I'm appealing to the greater knowledge here, because I'm not clear on my best way forward, as it's no longer a stock solution, and I'm unsure whether the equipment I'm replacing was the best idea to begin with.

The particulars: my truck has a 3" suspension lift, and the front sway set up has been modified such that the frame mounts for the swaybar have their own riser (to keep the bar's mounting position closer to the stock geometry, I'm guessing - effectively 'lowering' the sway mount back closer to the steering rack), and the control arm mounting points for the end link have had an additional 90º bracket installed so I can use the straight, bolt-style end links (vs. the stock L-shaped ones).

The end links I took off are ~2.5"; however, these bring the sway bar very close to the steering arms. There's no contact sitting still, but they're close. My bigger concern though, is the angle of the links' mounting points: with a 2.5" link the angle causes the bushings to move far enough apart (away from the mount points) that I can't even put the top washer over the bolt thread, much less get a nut on it. So my question: a taller end link improves the angle (bushings sit more flush) - but what is the cost to the geometry here? I can resolve the 'thread' issue with a longer bolt obviously, but the angle of the bushings (and the associated wear due to their ill fitment) is what brought me here asking questions.

I'm presently driving w/o sways (front or rear), which is ... ok, although the driver's front tire rubs if I take a right turn at anything faster than would catch Driving Miss Daisy's attention (35s on 12" wide DC-1s).

Should I just go with the longer bolt, compress the ˟˟˟˟ out of the bushings, and try to keep the sway bar where it is (as close to the control arm as possible) and damn the awkward bushing mounting? Or are taller end links a better solution? And what is result of having a tall pair of end links?

Thanks in advance for your insight!
Jake

osv

you should post some pics.

internet lore says that the front sway bar is what counts, but even just the rear sway bar alone can make a big difference.

fasterdammit

Thank you for your reply. I was beginning to wonder if I said something wrong.
Challenge accepted.

Sway mounts, so you have an idea of where they are in remain to steering and frame:
Sway bar 'drop' mounting bracket<br ><br >

This is about how far the bar & control arm mounting points are from one another.
Approximate end link gap; note the angle difference in the mating faces of the end link eye and the control arm tab (steering arm cuts between the two) <br ><br >

And here's how far apart I could make them. But... Should I?
If I index the sway bar up, how will using a longer end link affect things? Good, bad, indifferent? <br ><br >

Thanks in arcane again, for taking the time to reply & read on!

akwheeler

I can't help but wonder if your sway bar is upside down. the length of the link should have no effect on sway bar operation. The more you can keep the bushings flat when mounted at ride height the better.

fasterdammit

That was my thought, in regards to the angle of the mounting eyes on the bar in relation to the mounting face on the control arm. Both of the old bolts were bent something fierce - like a 30º angle. And the new bushings were pretty far from flat. I've got new bushings for the bar - so I'll flip it around and see how things fit with the bar inverted (or maybe reverted is more correct). I didn't put these links on, so I'm not sure the PO may have done correctly/incorrectly.

Thanks for the advice - I really appreciate it. I'll keep you posted. I will admit, the ride is a little plusher, just letting the shocks/springs do all the work without involving the chassis more, but the thing corners like a drunken bull elephant.

akwheeler

[QUOTE=

Thanks for the advice - I really appreciate it. I'll keep you posted. I will admit, the ride is a little plusher, just letting the shocks/springs do all the work without involving the chassis more, but the thing corners like a drunken bull elephant.[/QUOTE]



yeah, I'll bet. just make sure you are on flat ground at ride height (all of the weight on the suspension) and try to get it bolted up with the eyes as close to even with the mount on the suspension side and don't mash the new bushings down at oh my god foot pounds. it's only there to take away the body roll in a corner or over uneven surfaces, so there should not be much pressure involved in getting the bolts/nuts started.

osv

the bar will probably only fit in one direction, or it'll hit the oil pan or whatever is in the middle.

the angle on the sway bar end is way wrong there, it needs to be close to parallel, like akwheeler was suggesting.

hook up the rear sway bar, you'll notice a big difference.