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superlift vs skyjacker

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Old Oct 4, 2007 | 08:21 PM
  #1  
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From: Greenville SC
superlift vs skyjacker

I just recently picked up an 87 4 runner and i want to do a 4 in suspension lift and some 33's. Im not building a rock crawler so i dont want to do a SAS. It is going to be a daily driver and see some mild trails and some fun in the mud. Now i have been looking at the superlift system as well as the skyjacker system with the rear springs instead of blocks. Is one better than the other? The skyjacker system seems to to be a little more money and doesnt come with shocks. I dont mind paying more money if its actaually worth it. Any expierience with these systems, thoughts or opinions would be great.

Thanks, Bryan
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Old Oct 4, 2007 | 08:25 PM
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From: Vian, OK
i havent had a skyjacker or superlift before...but i do know...that springs in the back instead of blocks are better...more reliable..better ride...im getting new springs when i get my lift also...
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Old Oct 4, 2007 | 08:45 PM
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From: Longmont, CO
You don't need either.

http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/...it.shtml#FAQ10

Stick to 33x10.50 from what it sounds like your needs are. All the advantages of 33x12.50 (ground clearance, fill wheel wells, etc) with none of the disadvantages (weight, rubbing, turning radius, etc)
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Old Oct 4, 2007 | 09:36 PM
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From: Greenville SC
Yeah im pretty sure i could fit 33's with no lift at all but i would like to have a little more ground clearance and also a little more clearance between the wheel wells for when im on the trail. I know the IFS deoesnt flex a whole lot but i dont want to have any rubbing issues at all. Not to mention i like the look of these 4 runners lifted rather than have it stock height.
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Old Oct 4, 2007 | 09:52 PM
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From: I'm an Ohio boy!
Look into Rough Country lifts. The quality is equal to Superlift. Just dont use the blocks in the rear.
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Old Oct 5, 2007 | 05:33 AM
  #6  
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Then just do balljoint spacers and an add-a-leaf and call it good. You'll save a ton of money. If you really want more ground clearance, do a drivetrain lift. Makes more sense to me to tuck up the stuff that's reducing it now - tcase, gas tank, etc - and get it better protected than to just raise it up higher. No matter how much you lift, the rocks are always bigger...

I'm not a huge fan of bracket lifts - they place a lot of strain on the truck, and in the end, don't seem to provide much more "real" ground clearance.
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Old Oct 7, 2007 | 10:28 AM
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Thanks for the replies and the other idea options but i think im still gonna go with a 4 in lift. Mybe then ill do a bj spacer and relax the torsion bar for a smother ride and a little more flex. If i went with a 1.5 in bj spacer would i be abel to crank the torsion bar enough to lose that 1.5 inches? The end result i want it to be level and i dont want to lift the rear more than 4 in.

Ok, so if u had to choose between a superlift or skyjacker kit which one u chose and why. I know a lot of u would choose niether but please help me decide between the two.

Here is what im thinking.
superlift system with the superlift shocks that come in the kit
or
skyjacker system and bilstein shocks 5100's

which one?
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Old Oct 8, 2007 | 12:07 PM
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From: Vancouver Island, B.C.
After seeing the Skyjacker 6" Suspension lift on my buddies Dodge id never EVER put any of their products on my truck.
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Old Oct 8, 2007 | 05:06 PM
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From: atwater
i have SkyJacker on my jeep nothing too big just a 3" probably about what your looking for and it is really nice. easy to install and hold up to a lot of weight of the v8 in the Cherokee. they are a nice stiff ride never have bottomed out. i think super life you don't get the equality to skyjacker. personally i haven't heard much about them on Toyota tho there only a few with them including me in my town.
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Old Oct 9, 2007 | 08:38 PM
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From: Plainfield, IL
Originally Posted by BMC
Thanks for the replies and the other idea options but i think im still gonna go with a 4 in lift. Mybe then ill do a bj spacer and relax the torsion bar for a smother ride and a little more flex. If i went with a 1.5 in bj spacer would i be abel to crank the torsion bar enough to lose that 1.5 inches? The end result i want it to be level and i dont want to lift the rear more than 4 in.

Ok, so if u had to choose between a superlift or skyjacker kit which one u chose and why. I know a lot of u would choose niether but please help me decide between the two.

Here is what im thinking.
superlift system with the superlift shocks that come in the kit
or
skyjacker system and bilstein shocks 5100's

which one?
Ok a few things. The spacers are totally compatible with your 4" lift (I actually initially designed and tested them on trucks with and without 4" lifts before they were released to the market) They will improve the flex and ride with or without the lift. I recommend setting them for 1" of lift. At 1.5" you have stock ride quality, however, at 1" you get some extra compression travel with a bit more droop and excellent ride quality. My truck is currently set at 1" of lift with BJ spacers.

For mud it is very possible the extra clearance will help otherwise most of us, me included, would steer you away from the 4" bracket style lifts. That said I have looked at the Superlift and Roughcountry and they seem very comparable. Both have 1 piece lift brackets which reduce bracket shifting (reduces alignment issues when the hit rocks, etc...), have square cross-members (easy to fab skid plates and attach them), *appear* to have boxed in cross-member sections, and are even the same color. Short of going to an off road shop and scrutinizing each they look on the web like they could be made from the same manufacturer. What ever kit you choose though, make sure they fit the above criteria. Multi piece lift brackets like the Trailmaster are why I am so good and aligning my truck myself. The Skyjacker does not appear to be as beefy as the other two.

I am not an expert on mud wheeling so I'm sure there is much I don't know. I would caution, lifting greater than 3.5" in the rear suspension can induce driveline vibrations. I had that problem and after spending big bucks on a CV drive shaft it turned out to be worn pinion bearings. Either way, if you find you have them, the fix could as simple as new Ujoints, an appropriate axle shim, or as costly as custom driveshafts with new differential bearings. Or, you might have no issues at all, I just want to make you aware.

Post up some pics when you get'er together!

Frank
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