yep, 1 side fits all sides.
Another spare to carry is the short side output shaft.

You can EASILY run without the half shaft in there, but you risk dirt contamination. Just fix it on the spot.

With 33's I broke the short side output shaft on the trail with a LSD.
With 35's I broke 1 CV joint because I was a idiot on pavement with a locker.

IFS might not be solid axle tough, but it isn't a marshmallow either. (wheel travel, well that's another story I don't need to get into.)

 

Well its good to know.... I thought you may be able to run it without the shafts. I know contamination could be an issue, but compared to walking miles, I can clean up the contamination should I have to.

 

a 20 oz bottle cap with a couple layers of tape around it plugs the spindle hole on the inside nicely. with that on the inside and the hub on the outside, dirt and water inside the spindle is no longer a prob

a better way to do it would be to get a drain plug for a bass boat. its basically a big rubber stopper that locks into place.

 

thats a great idea, thanks Peter

 

the whole assembly or just the axle shaft?

on my WCOR kit, the whole thing is upgraded, well with the weak link being the outer joint now, which is essentially an OEM part.

the inner joint was replaced with an adapter and a lubro (porsche) joint and the axle itself is bomb proof...

okat not really bomb proof as i managed to twist the splines on one. i'm pretty sure the dual marlin cases and 150:1 will do that.

okay, i also blew up a lubro inner joint. again, that was having lifted the tire, giving it gas and severely landing hard on it...

but for tha outer joint, i blew 3 or 4 now...

 

I ran the CV unlimited shafts as well as a few others so I'll give my input. They are stronger than you think. In 3 years time I've seen 2 or 3 broken but they had the snot ran out of them in Dayton TN tellico and other d3-d5 level trails on a locked rig w/33's. You can buy the parts store shafts but heres what happens. If you bust the case they will exchange as long as they are unaware of it being locked. Some places care less if it's locked or not. Take a busted shaft back to advance where the shaft is broke say like the splines at the hubs and they won't exchange b/c it is a no good core. Same with the toy dealer. Ask me how I know. Also the advance auto napa ect shafts don't hold up as well locked and are actually weaker than a stock shaft since all they do is grind the shaft down and put oversized parts on them to make up the difference. IF you want to run a reman shaft come off the hip and buy the dealer stuff The dealer remans are stronger than napa ect even when locked up. I know guys who run circles w/ locked ifs and 33's around solid rigs and stuff and go more places in some occasions and depending on drive style have just as much if not less breakage than solid rigs. Why b/c I WAS one of those guys. At times I wish I didn't go solid. Yeah more flex is great but that and the ability to run bigger tires was all I gained especially since I only went though 7 shafts 2 sets of ball joints 1 set of front wheel bearings and 1 steering rack in 4 years of ifs rock crawling.

 

All good points. I can trash one and still take it back, my buddies at Oriellys are very forgiving. I know they are weaker if you get a reman, but the also sell lifetime warranty new shafts, which was what i planned on buying.

 

If you buy the parts house shafts and start popping them like some people I know they start getting anal about taking them back. You may need to flop between stores some