Hey, I recently did the SAS on my truck and it was a breeze I have a d-shaft in it but it keeps popping. Me and a bud lenthened it but it is the angle that's killing it. I have x-over steering and shimmed the front 8 degrees. The shaft looked good but the tierod was almost touching my leafs and would hit and cause crazy steering just out on the road. I might shim it 4 degrees but don't want to. It's that stupid double joint on the T-case side that's killing me. It won't let it drop down any. I thought about bypassing it with new U joints but this would make the driveshaft to short again. Is there any way around this. Would a Chevy or Ford shaft work?? Jeep shafts are long too. I need Ideas! I can piece my t-case and yoke hookups to the right shaft I just need to know what will work. Maybe someone will know!!!!! Thanks

 

Moved to the off road section. You'll get more responsed over here where the hardcore guys are.

 

First, I don't think that it is good to shim your front axle because it will be problematic with alignment in the future.

Build a square shaft to length.

If your shaft is at a bad angle, cut and rotate the knuckles so it points at the t-case.

 

I thought I'd get some good ideas out of this forum.. I have had two replies and I appreciate "those two!" I see SAS allover this site and can't believe that nobody has run into this stuff like me... I have 3 ideas on what to do but would like some suggestions and advice or at least an idea!! That's why were're on this site right??????? Thanks....

 

w/ out dual cases, the angle is too steep to run a stock C/V'd front d'shaft. The best option you have is to cut the axle tubes to rotate the diff up towards the t'case- that keeps the caster/camber at stock specs. You can also pony up the bucks to get a hi-pinion third to reduce the angle- it also increases the clearances for wheelin. Jesse at High Angle Driveline makes some trick C/V's w/ alot more droop, but I'll bet he recommends the least expensive option: to use standard u-joints- no C/V at all, and live with the vibrations.

 

Jeeze, calm down dude. You gotta have more patience than 3½ hours.

You can modify the CV joint to get a little more travel out of it. http://4x4wire.com/toyota/tech/cvmod/

Best solution is to swap the shafts front-rear, but this will require retubing both of them and a new slip for the "new" front shaft($400-500). Second best would be to pick up a used rear shaft and have Jesse retube/slip it for the front ($250 plus cost of used shaft). Or you could just build one of those clunky square shafts if you're in so much of a hurry...

 

You see SAS all over here? Mostly in terms of people wanting one.

There are maybe two swapped trucks that hang out here on a regular basis...

 

 

Here's what worked beautifully for me on my '86.

First off don't use shims in the front. I turned my knuckles 12 degrees and then rotated the spring perches. ( I believe 9 degrees). This points the pinion in the right place but leaves your caster positive.

I then purchased an '85 ('84 will work too) front driveshaft from a wrecker and lengthened it and popped it in. The '84 and '85 front driveshafts give you the most angle @ about 35 degrees.

No problems up front but my rear had a nasty vibration issue.

For the rear I simply lengthened my old IFS CV driveshaft and rear problem solved.

The thing drives like a champ.

If you have any more questions let me know.

Regards,

Warren

 

Hey I appreciate all of ya'lls emails and ideas. I have been looking at my rear driveshaft for days and wondered "why if shortened", why wouldn't it work. It will!!! I took the rear d-shaft out of my 79 parts truck. Cut it down. welded her up. I used the slip yoke from my 87 which has alot more movement. It's the same spline as the rear d-shaft. I ran the slip side of the shaft to the t-case end. I had to drill the yoke flange on the t-case for the bolt pattern to hook up. The front bolted slam up! It probably has the same angle as a stock yota at the shaft and axle. This little upgrade cost me nothing!! I did already have the rear shaft though. Upon completing the install, I climbed 3 feet up an oak tree with both wheels spinning. After that I climbed a crosstie wall "3 Ties" high, and it was working great and holding up. No popping or vibration at all. So there you go, it held up!!! I'll keep you posted and will post if it breaks, but I don't think it's gonna for a long time, though.... I hope it doesn't!!!!!!!!!

 

A couple of choices for the front shaft:

Run a single cardan shaft, u-joints at each end.

You only want to shim the front axle to get the steering caster angle within spec. Too much or little angle can cause bad steering problems on the road.

Rotate the knuckles on the front axle and point the diff at the transfer case.

Or get a high pinion (FJ80) diff, will cut 4" off the front driveshaft drop, helping a great deal with the angles.

Install a dual transfer case, the 6.5" extra length will also help with the angles.

FYI: I run a dual case, high pinion front diff, lengthened stock front CV shaft, no shims and the shaft angles are perfect.

 

Merged your new thread into this one so people can see the results. Even I missed the new one :pat:

Good work fabbing up the new driveshaft!