I'm going to regear my diffs and have been seriously thinking about adding a dual transfer case. I'll probably hold off for a while on the t-case, but I've definately going to be regearing in the very near future.

Originally, I was planning on creating a headlight conversion that would basically be for appearances only. It would have utilized a custom fabricated metal housing and a set of Hella 90mm projector modules. The idea looked good on Photoshop, but would have cost nearly $700. That's about 1/3rd the cost of getting regeared. Then, I made another phone call. Through a buddy of mine who has a friend who owns a diff shop, I can get either 4.88s or 5.29s installed for $1500. That would include new seals, everything. So, i could get regeard and get a set of 255/85/16 tires for the same price as just getting geared at another shop.

The 4Runner's getting geared next month!

 

the guy on ebay sells them for 600 than if you send him your you get 200 back, so thats new seals and gears for only 800 for BOTH diffs, 1500 is way to much, thats how much i plan on spending with front and rear lockers!

 

$1500 for just regearing sounds pretty steep. See this thread: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/show...ighlight=labor

I spent $3000 total to regear and ARB both ends. Plus, I still need to sell my rear dif.

It doesn't look like you are locked now, so if you're going to regear you might as well put lockers in it too.

Edit: on second thought, if that $1500 includes the price of the gears and the master rebuild kit, then it's not too bad. Gears cost $200 each and the master rebuild kits are $100 each, so that's $600 right there. Labor for both ends would be $900.

 

$1500 includes parts, labor, gear kit, and master rebuild kit. And I'm locked in the rear. Don't need/want to lock the front.

 

That is a lot of money for just gears, i installed f/r 4.88 Precision Gears + f/r ARB Lockers + Air Compressor + 2 Master Install kit + labor = 2100. You are not getting a good deal at all.

 

I paid less than Steve.

 

keep shopping, you may find what you want used....

i picked up front and rear slightly used 3rd's with 5.29's and ARB's at both ends for under $1100. That included two fully set-up diffs that i just have to bolt into my rear end and replace my front housing.

 

 

Randy's R&P wants $410 for gears on both ends. The master rebuild kit is another $300. That's $700. Another $400 for labor doesn't seem that far fetched for me. Especially considering Slee quoted me $2600 for gears alone and ORS quoted $2100 for gears alone. Inchworm wants $800 for a V6 3rd with e-locker. Why should I spend $800 to replace something that still works and works fine?
Installing my own gears is out of the question. No time, no patience. For as many calls as I have made, I think $1500 is stellar.

 

Especially if the guy is going to remove the diffs too. I still say it's not a bad price if you're unwilling to find used diffs on pirate or something.

Although, I still question the wisdom of installing a crawler but no front locker.

 

More control of supercharged-derived power with a crawler.

Besides, everyone I've talked to says the stock front end on the 3rd gen can't handle the torque generated by both a locker and a crawler. I would have to install a manual hub kit. That's a $1600 proposition. Add another $800 for the locker. I've been quoted $1300 for a crawler since I already have the case. Another $400-600 if I regear the case, too.

And the truth is I don't need a front locker. A crawler will allow me to control the amount of power to the open front and a locker rear better than just a locked front with no crawler. And besides, I still don't know if I'm definately going that way. That's still $1300 I could spend on a new Mac since I trashed my PC, or a trail rig, or a...

There have been some trails I've been on that would have been made easier with a front locker but have been overcome with open diffs and creative tire placement. I've forgotten my roots. My '92 was open diffs front and rear and I did more wheeling in that than I have in the '96. The '96 is slowly catching up, though.

 

I paid 800 total for my regear

500 for gears and master install kits
300 for install

 

Did you remove the diffs yourself, or was the price with the diffs in the vehicle?

 

they did everything for me, all I had to do was drive it in the garage.

But i have to say that it was one of my club members. So he gave me a discount, not much though. But I'd say install should cost no more than 500.

And my gears and master kits all came from Randy's. It was like 500 including shipping because there was some internet special on toyota gears.

Check the site for pics and other stuff.

 

$410 for each end or both ends? If it's for both, that's not too bad. Their full rebuild kits are spendy, but cheap insurance.

But your math is wrong... $700 + $400 = $1100...

Anyway, most diff shops quote about 3 hrs to install gears. When a friend and I did my last diff (brought it to him OUT of the truck), it took us 2.5 hours to set it up wtih a complete rebuld and new gears (ARB already installed). At today's shop rates of $75+, you're looking at $225-250 per end, and that doesn't include R&R from the truck. Figure 90 minutes to R&R the front, 45 for the rear, add another $10 for oil.

All that said, $1500 isn't a bad price per se, considering it's drive in and drive out.

 

Whoops. New math

And I work at a credit union.

 

$2000 for front and rear 4.88 gears, ARBs and installation.

 

That's a great deal. Where'd you get your stuff and who setup the gears?

 

Alan, talk to Steve Schaefer and ask him about his front end with 35s, front locker, and a crawler.

As a matter of fact, there is a nice thread detaling the above.

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/ifs-stronger-50178/

 

I got it from a guy named Bubba out of the back of rusted out F150 pick up...I think he stole them...he looked like this...