Ok, I read the Toyota FAQ and it states for tires sized “32x11.50-should fit, may require minor adjustments”. Would it work if I did a ball joint spacer of 1.5in in the front and in the rear did a 1.5in and a leaf to fix the sag and did a 2in shackle to balance the height out. I have a 1in to 2in worth of sag in the rear of my 89 V6 LB 4x4. I would like to use the stock rim (if possible or if I need go with a wider rim with more backspacing) and run 32x11.50x15 MTs. What shocks would you recommend with them? Will I need to do anything else to prevent any tire rubbing? I want to confirm that I won’t need to do, replace drive shafts, Diff drop, extended brake lines, radiator, etc? Sorry noob here so correct me if I stated anything incorrectly and I looking for a relatively inexpensive lift to get 32s on my truck. Thanks in advance.

 

May not need to do anything, maybe hammer the standing seam flat behind the wheel well liner up front. Ball joint spacers would work, cranking up the torsion bars would work, add-a-leaf or longer shackle in back would leverl the truck. Stock wheels are fine:

http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/...it.shtml#FAQ10

 

Thanks 4Crawler. I looking to have a shop do this because I have limited experience with 4x4 and limited tools, but will look into your kits since I have heard great things about them. Any relatively inexpensive shocks you would recommend and can I do both an a add a leaf (1.5 in) and a shackle (2 in) for the rear end. Thanks.

 

KYB shocks are decent, some rear shock p/ns I used with a 3.5" lift a page or so down on this link:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/4R_suspe...ml#SpringSpecs

Uou sure can combine add-a-leaf and longer shackles, the '94 pickup described on the link I posted earlier has just that setup in back, Rancho Soft-Ride AAL plus a set of 2" longer shackles that I made. It works well and he is running 33x12.50s.

 

For cheap (low cost) shocks check these out:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Super...temZ7916955827

I have a pair on mine and they seem fine. Similar to Procomp3000 or Rancho5000. You'll have to scroll around a bit to find a good length with the right kind of attatchment points but you should be able to come up with something. I linked a set of AT shocks (787xx) but they also have XT (788xx) that are nitro charged. The XT's aren't warranted though.

If this looks familiar I posted this in another "inexpensive lift" thread

 

Thanks 4Crawler and BlkNBlu. I'm going to find out how much the shops will charge for labor on the spacers, aal, shackles, and shocks. I'll into the KYB, Black Diamond, Procomp, and Rancho shocks. Another noob questions, with the shocks how do I determine which shock to use? Is it specific for brand of vehicle, size of shock, etc. Thanks again.

 

I have some information and links on how to measure for shocks on the page below:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/Rancho.shtml

Most application guides will also list shocks by vehicle and lift, so you might try ones for about a 2" lift.

 

Once again, thanks 4Crawler.

 

Ok, I spent a few hours over the weekend contact local WD shops seeing what they would charge to install the Ball Joint Spacers and I couldn't find one that would do it, I call about 8 of them. Anyone have suggestions on what other type of shops I can call or know of any shops in the Sacramento CA area that would install Ball Joint Spacers?

 

Did any of them say why they wouldn't do it? I'm just curious. Protrux in San Marcos (San Diego County) does 'em all the time but they are far from you.

Frank

 

Any frequent rubicon'ers want to chime in with local shops? There's got to be a good shop up there somewhere considering Tahoe and the Con are only 1.5 hours away.

 

Also, should you chose to install them yourself, e-mail me at sales@sdori.com and I'll give you some pointers to make it very easy. Instructions are here. Feel free to read them over if you haven't seen 'em yet. That might help you to see the scope of the work and decide if it is something you wish to tackle or otherwise.

Frank

 

just do oit yourself......sense of accomplishment



or you could run a little crank in the front and a shackle in the rear and clear the tires w/o much a problem...

hammer that part back and throw those 32's on your stocker rims....i run them currently on my 86 and run 33'10.50's on my 94

 

elripster - only one said they wouldn't do it because of liability issues, the others didn't give a reason why. I'll take a look at the instructions again an see if this is something I want to tackle.

Right now the truck isn't always starting on the first turn of the key so I want to look into this before I jump into the spacers.

Thanks again guys.

 

I would look into that as well! My girlfriens car just had that issue, battery was going plus the contacts were all dirty.

Batteries work better when warm,(chemical reaction goes faster = more current) so if it comes on line after a few tries, likely the battery is old and doesn't have the cold cranking amps it used to have.

If there's anything I do to help with the local shops let me know and I'll have at it.

Frank

 

elripster - went to Autozone and they tested the Battery and Altenator, battery was looking bad and the Altenator wasn't producing enough amps to charge the battery. So I can get a refurbished one for $161 at Autozone with a lifetime warranty + core, or $159 at Kragen with a lifetime + core, or another place for $139 with a 2 year warranty + core, or I can go to dealer get a refurbished one for $225 with a 1 year warranty (a new one is $400). What would your suggestion be and is there a write up on how to change the altenator?

 

Just fix the alternator, likely only worn brushes:
- http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/mainte...nator_brushes/

 

Thanks 4crawler. If I can get the part from the dealer I will try this this after work. Can you explain a couple things that aren't clear to me after reading the write up.

1. What is anti-sieze and can I get it at any parts store?
2. How do I know I have the tension at spec when I re-install the belt?
3. When they tested the altenator the amps were around 1 to 2, very low from what I have read. Will replacing the bushings solve this?

 

1. http://www.antiseize.com/, or similar, any auto pats store should have it. I use it on every faster that I don't use thread locker on.

2. So it does not slip, feel how tight it is before you take it off, press with your thumb in the middle and see how far it deflects.

3. Could be bad brushes, brushes supply the field current that makes the alternator go. Brushes shot = low field current = low output current. Should be obvious when you open it up if they are worn.

 

Thanks 4crawler, they have the part so I'm going to pick it up after work and replace the brushes, hopefully this works so I can replace the battery this weekend. Thanks again.

NOTE: I ment to say brushes not bushings in Q3.