Has anybody installed a true trac or other locker or posi (other than a lunch box style)in the front of a 1986-95 ifs? How much work is it? I installed a true trac in the rear and it wasn't too bad, but I don't know about the front.

 

Front is similar, but you have to deal with shims, instead of adjuster nuts. Press the bearings onto the true trac, and then shim. A lot easier, and works great.

 

If by some chance you cannot get or dont have on hand the correct Toyota specific shims (large uncommon shims) you can use dana style shims between the TT and the carrier bearing. Its a bit more work to use the dana shims but the end result is the same.


Ohh and make sure you are using a Front IFS style Tru-trac and not a rear 2wd 7.5" Tru-Trac as the design is direction specific.

 

What are the odds that if I reuse the shims that are already in there they will work. Also I have been looking at true tracs at randy's ring and pinion (ringpinion.com) and there are two different sizes for 7.5 ifs. One says it is the standard size one says that it uses v6 bearings. How can I tell which one I have. My front axle assembly is orginally out of a 1992 4runner.

 

There is a lot already out there on this subject. The consensus is that once you lift a wheel with the Truetrac, you're stopped, it becomes effectively open.

IMO a better mod would be to put an Aussie Locker up front if you don't ever use 4wd on the road or a selectable if you have spare change.

 

That is what everybody keeps telling me, but I don't go rock crawling with my truck, so I have never had a wheel off the ground. I just see mud, sand and snow. So I would like the extra traction of the true trac without destroying my steering like a locker would probably do.

 

I don't think lockers destroy steering. Some say they destroy CV axles, but the guys in the know (chiefly AxleIke and TC) say they save CVs because the worst thing you can do to your CVs is to have one tire up in the air spinning madly and one tire on the ground, not moving at all. when the tire that in the air come crashing down, you shock load your CV axle and it breaks.

 

I don't pretend to be an expert, but I installed an Aussie Locker in the rear and I am really happy with in. I rarely notice it on the road, its barely audible when it does make a noise, and it locks whenever I need it to. In my opinion, it is not dangerous on the road.

I did a full review here: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f31/...review-143321/

 

I did a search and here's a review of the Truetrac for you. http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/TrueTrac.shtml

 

I had a truetrac in the front with IFS and I loved it. It was great in the snow and ice and on rocks, I could use the brake pedal to effectively "lock" it. When I installed mine, one factory shim was too thick, so it had to be made thinner. A machine shop with a surface grinder can take your shim down a few thousandths at a time if needed. If you need more shim, a Dana 30 shim kit works great and are easy to find.

 

Thanks for the aussie locker info. I not sure now because I have spent some time looking at aussie lockers and looking up reviews. Everything I have heard is good and I like that they are cheaper and easier to install, but I have true trac in the rear of my truck and I love it. It is like having an open differential on the road but when I hit mud or sand I have never been stuck with one tire spinning and one not moving(I have never had a tire completely off the ground though) and in the snow I have never had it throw me around at all. I drove over Grants Pass in Oregon and it was snowing so hard that they closed it about 20 minutes after I got through. I didn't have chains, I didn't even lock in the hubs and I never had a tire spin out or had the back end jump out on me. On the other hand I have never had a locker or driven a truck with a locker before, so I don't know what to expect. It is a hard decision.

 

If you use 4wd on the highway in snow, I don't think you'd want to go with a mechanical locker of any kind. BUT, I would try to solicit the opinion of someone who has actually run a front mechanical locker in the snow.

If you don't use 4wd on the highway ever (ie: snow), then I'd go for a locker.

 

You have it 100% right.

Lockers save CV's.

Fat tires and lifts destroy steering. Not lockers.

I had a lift and Fat tires. I broke a lot of steering parts. I kept my lift and fat tires, and got a front locker. I broke a lot of steering parts. Then, I relaxed my torsion bars back until I had no lift. I don't break steering parts.

 

The problem with mechanical lockers in the snow is that they can lock up, because your tires are slipping. When they do, they will have a tendency to pull you hard suddenly, if you have traction on one side or another.

If you aren't in the snow, you'll be fine, and if you are, then you just have to take it easy.

 

I've thought a double Aussie-locked rig would be difficult in the snow. I haven't tried this, though so I can't back this up.

I think I'll save for an ARB personally.

 

I think I will go with the True trac. I have never had a wheel off the ground, I love my true trac rear and I do need to drive on the road in the snow with it. Also I would rather risk being stuck with a true trac than risk breaking a cv axle or steering component with a locker.

 

I have been looking at true tracs at randy's ring and pinion (ringpinion.com) and there are two different sizes for 7.5 ifs. One says it is the standard size one says that it uses v6 bearings. How can I tell which one I have. My front axle assembly is orginally out of a 1992 4runner with ADD and a V6.

 

Does it have the part # stamped on it anywhere? I know that 911A342 is for the 6.