hey all, will 32x12.50's not rub if i torque up the torsion bar, its not a permant fix just temp till the lift gets here next month, but would it work, they rub bad right now when turning, there on offsets but i guess there not offset enough!
thanks
wade

 

Actually, if you go out and turn you wheel to full lock, lets say to the right, then look at your passenger wheel well (driver side if turn full lock to the left) - you'll see that it's probably the outermost edge of the tire rubbing against the inner fender lining. Stock backspacing will limit that, some additional backspacing (which it seems you already have) will make it a little worse, but you'd have to run the tires really far out (LOTS of backspacing) for that to solve the problem.

Pull the plastic liner out of the fender well, get a 5 pound hammer and bend the pinch seam down flat. You'll see what I'm talking about when you get the plastic out. You'll gain almost an inch.

When you put the plastic back in you'll have to do 2 things.
1. Get a heat gun and soften the plastic and reshape it to fit snug against the sheet metal (to actually gain that inch you made possible by flattening the pinch seam).
2. be sure to be a little creative when re-fastening your reshaped liner so you can hold it in it's new location.

That might get you room for 32's. If not then hit the torsion bars. Just take all the noraml warnings into account, manual hubs vs splkit CV boots, increased stiffness, maybe need an alignment.

I did the pinch seam and the torsion bars and had room for 33's, but I just dropped the bars back down in favor of a 4 inch Superlift - Check you other post for another of my long posts.

 

i have one word.


















SAWZALL!!!!!!!!!

 

I'd be rubbing in the rear at full flex/tricycle mode if it wern't for my 1.5 body lift. You may need to space the bumpstops down an inch or so in back. Oh wait... I'm thinking leaf springs. :pat: Do 2nd gens even have rear bumpstops between frame and axle?

Sorry i'm not much help here, just padding my posts.

 

Here's how to fit 33s without a bodylift. http://www.brian894x4.com/33INCHTIRES.html

Since my 32s don't rub at all (well, very slightly, but insignificantly) I'd say it's your non-stock wheels. You want more backspacing so that your tires are tucked in more. You don't want the tires to be sticking out farther if you want to clear 32s (or 33s). What is your backspacing?

 

yeah i did the first thing with the plastic lining, helped a bit, my 6" lift will be in here in less then a month though

thanks
wade

 

Knowing rim width and offset helps a ton.

I used a hammer and grinder to make room for my 33's on 15x8's with 4" of BS.

If you are otherwise stock up front but have 10" rims or similar, the trimming may be extreme.

Is this occurring on the street when turning, or under full compression when wheeling?

 

if all you want to do is fit 32s you could do what i did and use thicker torsion bars (i use sway-away bars, but they are too thick unless you have a lot of weight in the front) and low profile bump stops( energy suspension). do not crank your torsion bars too much unless you like replacing ball joints and CV boots.

 

im not sure of my backspacing, i think its a 2"offset wheel and only happens at full compression,OR, full turn.

i dunno, pretty soon ill have a lift so ill just be carfull till then!

thanks though.
wade

 

if you'll be lifting it soon, you could try to just crank the torsion bars for a termporary fix. but be aware that when stock torsion bars are cranked it gives you a harsh ride and can cause damage if you try to achieve more than an inch or so of lift via this method.