Heavy Duty cv's
Mar 30, 2005 | 04:41 PM
#5
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From: Nor*Cal
if all the grease fell out then its best to replace it, as you dont know how long it was dry, if its not bad, you can just put more grease and put on a univeral boot kit... however, its basically the same amount of work as jsut replacing the whole thing to put on a new boot
Mar 30, 2005 | 04:44 PM
#6
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thats what i was thinking jim...might as well have the things new and i have to tear into the drivers side spindle to replace that inner bushing that is making alot of racket going over small bumps when i'm going slow....
Mar 30, 2005 | 05:37 PM
#7
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From: JACKSON
you would think it would be possible to make boots that would be close to impervious to ripping...why is this so difficult?
arent their materials out there that would work?
edit: I assume we are talking about the boots here and not the axles!
arent their materials out there that would work?
edit: I assume we are talking about the boots here and not the axles!
Last edited by GodwinAustin; Mar 30, 2005 at 05:38 PM.
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Mar 30, 2005 | 07:10 PM
#9
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From: Fort Worth/College Station, TX
It really isn't too much more to replace them compared to rebooting them. I'd replace them just to be on the safe side. As opposed to rebooting them and then realize they need to be replaced.
I think I remember something about heavy duty cvs in the thread with the TLT long-travel runner. The used porsche parts I think and ran 500-1000. Can't remember the details for sure though.
I think I remember something about heavy duty cvs in the thread with the TLT long-travel runner. The used porsche parts I think and ran 500-1000. Can't remember the details for sure though.
Last edited by Praufet; Mar 30, 2005 at 07:21 PM.
Mar 30, 2005 | 07:27 PM
#10
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From: Wandering around Phoenix
I never understood why people say it costs almost the same to put in a new CV as opposed to a new boot. I can get the toyota boot kit for about $25. Last I heard a CV from an autoparts store is about $70.
Mar 31, 2005 | 08:54 PM
#13
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From: Duvall, WA
Originally Posted by callmej75
Is there such a thing?
TOYOTA TRUCK, I.F.S. TRUCKS & TACOMA
One of our newer products is the heavy duty joint for Tacoma and I.F.S. trucks. We have designed it stronger than O.E. by using some of the same design processes we use for the Land Cruiser. The Tacoma and I.F.S. trucks come from the factory with two complete CV axles. We can only supply a new heavy duty outer joint attached to a rebuilt CV axle. We rebuild the CV axle with boots that are superior to the O. E. boots. The wear problem after a lift kit has been installed will be greatly reduced due to these aftermarket boots. The heavy-duty joint will fit trucks with auto or manual locking hubs.
One of our newer products is the heavy duty joint for Tacoma and I.F.S. trucks. We have designed it stronger than O.E. by using some of the same design processes we use for the Land Cruiser. The Tacoma and I.F.S. trucks come from the factory with two complete CV axles. We can only supply a new heavy duty outer joint attached to a rebuilt CV axle. We rebuild the CV axle with boots that are superior to the O. E. boots. The wear problem after a lift kit has been installed will be greatly reduced due to these aftermarket boots. The heavy-duty joint will fit trucks with auto or manual locking hubs.
I was breaking the stock ones pretty regularly with the front locker and 35's, but once I put those on, I didn't break anymore until I did the axle swap
Mar 31, 2005 | 10:04 PM
#14
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From: San Diego CA
Originally Posted by WATRD
I ran these for a while...
http://www.cvunlimited.com
I was breaking the stock ones pretty regularly with the front locker and 35's, but once I put those on, I didn't break anymore until I did the axle swap
http://www.cvunlimited.com
I was breaking the stock ones pretty regularly with the front locker and 35's, but once I put those on, I didn't break anymore until I did the axle swap
How much did they cost?
Any idea for an early IFS rig?
Apr 1, 2005 | 07:05 AM
#15
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From: Duvall, WA
Originally Posted by deathrunner
How much did they cost?
Originally Posted by deathrunner
Any idea for an early IFS rig?
Apr 1, 2005 | 07:20 AM
#17
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From: Duvall, WA
No problem. I had intended to run the Porche CV's since I had good experiences with them in my Baja Bug, but I was unable to find anyone making them for the Tacoma. The CVU's were the next best thing and seemed to do the job, so I was happy with them. When I did the swap, I was able to sell them and recoup some of the cost, so that made them an even better deal
Apr 1, 2005 | 12:19 PM
#18
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From: Columbia, MO
an interesting idea would be to make some "CV rings" similar to the birfield rings made for suzuki samurai's. its an extra cromo ring that is pressed on to the outside keeping it from exploding under stress. all you would need to do is use a larger boot.
FWIW, it wont help with the stub shaft snapping off, which i have done, but it will help in the outer CV dept.
the best option IMO, is to machine out the spindle and run some longfields (27 spline version) and then run solid axle lockouts.
FWIW, it wont help with the stub shaft snapping off, which i have done, but it will help in the outer CV dept.
the best option IMO, is to machine out the spindle and run some longfields (27 spline version) and then run solid axle lockouts.
Apr 1, 2005 | 03:47 PM
#19
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From: Deep Gap, NC
Originally Posted by WATRD
No problem. I had intended to run the Porche CV's since I had good experiences with them in my Baja Bug, but I was unable to find anyone making them for the Tacoma. The CVU's were the next best thing and seemed to do the job, so I was happy with them. When I did the swap, I was able to sell them and recoup some of the cost, so that made them an even better deal
Chris
Apr 1, 2005 | 03:57 PM
#20
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Originally Posted by WATRD
I ran these for a while...
http://www.cvunlimited.com
I was breaking the stock ones pretty regularly with the front locker and 35's, but once I put those on, I didn't break anymore until I did the axle swap
http://www.cvunlimited.com
I was breaking the stock ones pretty regularly with the front locker and 35's, but once I put those on, I didn't break anymore until I did the axle swap
